I haven't but I've had no problems with Dunlops that I sent to White Post Restorations for rebuilding. It's not cheap but probably cheaper and easier than what you're proposing. I did them several years ago (7 or 8) for a customer who stores the car every winter and drives it only a few thousand miles per summer. They're still working great and aren't leaking. I think they put brass sleeves in them.

 

Before you send your brake bits out for sleeving, please read through my write up on rebuilding a brake master cylinder for a dual circuit Alfa. You can find the article here.

As others have said, there is nothing wrong with Dunlop brakes. If they are properly adjusted, they should work very well.

 

Do some searches on this site for info - it has been done many times. See threads with papajam - he has discussed this on 105's, as well as converting to dual-circuit brakes.

I am switching mine over, front and rear. You get newer, bigger, more reliable calipers with cheap pads (I've bought my last pair of $80 Dunlop pads). Any 2-liter spider axle in good condition will work, but check the axle ratios on both. I have a '78 lined up, with 60,000 mi. You need the 2-liter front spindles and calipers if you want to do all four.

BTW, I am keeping every piece and every screw in case Dunlop calipers somehow become priceless someday!

Mike Gilbert
'67 Duetto

 

If you're inclined to swap (I would be; I don't like the Dunlops, in spite of originality or ease, or not, of getting them to work right), switching the rear brakes is as easy as swapping a later complete axle assembly with ATEs on it. With a helper, you can do it in a day. Switching fronts requires replacing everything from the upright outward (spindle, hub, disk, caliper, pipe holder, etc.). Upper and lower A-arms do not have to be changed. So just get the complete front end setup off a late 1600 GTV, Spider, or Giulia Super and bolt the spindles, etc. on. You can also swap to 1750 or 2000 uprights and brakes, with a bit more work, but then you need adjustable upper A arms to set the camber, as the 1600 A-arms are a different length from 1750/2000 ones.

You might need to switch to a different diameter brake MC; and the Duetto doesn't have a booster, does it? Not sure how the pedal effort will work out.

Andrew Watry

 

Thanks

Thanks all, you have helped me to make up my mind. I will find a 2L spider rear end and swap them out. ANdrew thanks for the info on the fronts, I may do them too.

Here is still another question to anyone, The duetto does not have a booster, I see that you can order them from IAP, I can add one of those, I am not sure how, but I suppose it just bolts on, but can I leave the stock 67 Duetto MC? should I replace that too? What about the pedals, I have seen several threads where people have been discussing different pedals.

Great feedback from all..

 

There are two kinds of pedals: "standing" (hinged under the floor), and "hanging" (hinged up in the dash). A Duetto through 1967 ought to have standing pedals, with the brake MC under the floor. Some or all Duettos didn't have a booster (I'm unsure; did they come in with ATE brakes?), and had a slightly different diam. brake MC from cars with boosters. The IAP $300ish Bonaldi/Benditalia booster for use on cars through 1967 will work on a Duetto, but you'd have to plumb in the lines, and I don't know if anyone ever does this.
The cheaper 1971 and on booster is for hanging pedals, and won't work with standing pedals.

Andrew Watry

 

My Duetto (bought new in Feb 1968) had ATE brakes but no booster. 24 mm MC. Another I worked on, essentially the same age, had the single circuit booster and a 22 mm MC. I swear Alfa built cars out of what ever was on hand that week!

To add the booster: Bracket welded on left fender side; vacuum check valve in rear of intake manifold; rubber vacuum pipe across rear of engine to booster; brake line from MC output to booster; brake line from booster to that wierd 4-way junction on the lower right firewall where the pressure brake light switch is.

If you keep the larger MC you just get a bit less pedal pressure. While you're at it, change the front calipers to 2L ATE or Milano Bondi (aluminum castings) and 2L vented discs - need to change the spindles to 2L too. the larger pistons on the 2L or Bondi's will go well with the larger MC. Probably need to add an adjustable rear brake pressure limiter, or you'll slide the rears a lot.

Oh, and the 2L spindles come with all right-hand lug nuts. The original Duetto had left hand nuts on one side. Be sure to get the right wheel nuts, or spend the time to take the LH thread studs out of the wheel.

Robert

 

Might I add to Robert's excellent description is the need for a second bracket (#2 in the pics). #1 is the fender bracket which, on this 1750 single circuit brake system, also houses the dual compartment brakefluid reservoir (the second compartment being for the clutch).

 

Papajam -
Can those brackets be cut off a scrap car and welded on in the correct spot on a non-boosted car? Is it only on 1750's, or from any of those 1600 GT and Super photos I have with the sideways servo?
Thanks,
Mike

 

Don't see why not, Mike. Bracket #2 looks to be the same for both 1600s and 1750s. Bracket #1 on the 1600s may be different though because of the separate mounted fluid reservoir. Don't know for certain but I'll try to find out.

 

Post #13 in this thread has a good shot of bracket #1 that to me, looks slightly different than a 1750 bracket. Either bracket should work though. Note also in post #23 that Jeff's non-servo Junior has bracket #2 but no bracket #1. Fellow BBer JoeC's 67 Jr also has bracket #2 but no #1. Interesting!

 

Obviously the first body man at Milano thought there were enough Servos for this body too, and when he went home early, his replacement realized that there wouldn't be enough, so he left off the last bracket. They MUST have been built by randomly grabbing from the parts bins!



Robert

 

Post #13 in this thread has a good shot of bracket #1 that to me, looks slightly different than a 1750 bracket. Either bracket should work though. Note also in post #23 that Jeff's non-servo Junior has bracket #2 but no bracket #1. Fellow BBer JoeC's 67 Jr also has bracket #2 but no #1. Interesting!

Jim -
Mine ('67) has neither #1 or 2 currently. My brake res. is located per Post #12 in that other thread, but without the clutch reservoir of course. Where the servo bracket will sit is where my old blue windshield washer bag is hung.

How is your dual-circuit design coming? I see Centerline etc have the '67 MC for $150 or so new, so I may put it back together with that and 2-liter calipers, spindles, axle, etc to get it running for now, and wait to see how your f/r balance works out. The hard pipe and fittings part of it is what has me nervous. Still working on the spring decision also.
Mike

 

I'm currently in the process of a Duetto restoration that had Dunlops and have no reservations converting it to late model Ate. I used VW T2 71-72 Ate calipers up front (reman from Autohaus AZ; 211 615 107x and 108X at $50 each +core). I don't see any problem NOT using a booster, as these calipers have larger mm pistons and quality discs that bolt on to the late spindle uprights. If these are adequate for the racers, then it should be adequate to haul you down in most spirited driving situations. BTW, add a dial-type proportioning valve for the rear brakes. Had mine mounted discreetly by the passenger tunnel behind the seat, where I can easily reach back and adjust, (from JEGS, no bracket necessary!).

Ate parts are affordable, easily serviced, and plentiful. For me, safety wins over purist, but that is subjective and depends on what you want out of the car, (Hmm...there's a reason why Alfa went with Ate as many other primo manufacturers did). Think about where your going to be when you need Dunlop parts, or service. Ate parts are a phone call away! I don't know about you, but get some experience you can rely on, (read: Thanks AutoComponeti), and enjoy the drive!