So you seem to be attached to this car, and for that reason I'd keep it. As far as getting it repaired $8000 seems like the guy is on the wrong side of crazy.

Since you are wanting a driver and not a show car there are a couple of options to consider.

First, is there a high school or community college around you that offers body shop classes? If so they are usually looking for projects to work on. I would guess they might enjoy having the opportunity to work on a classic car.

Second, you can try Craigslist for services. There are guys that do auto body repairs in their home garages. Since they don't have the overhead of a commercial space you'll find the rates are much more reasonable.

Both of these options could serve you well since the damage does not appear significant and you aren't super critical of the outcome. You want better, not perfect.

Hth Robert

 

$8k does not sound like a lot to do the job properly. There are really no good breaks in the body so to fix that correctly means a complete body repaint. Problem is that a '75 with "some" bubbles is probably hiding more, possibly a lot of rust. Now you're replacing rockers, etc...

If you enjoy the car and can afford it, fix it.

 

Thanks guys. Yes the $8000 job was for a full paint job, with some idea that there would be a few panels that need to be welded in. The rockers don't show any bubbles, but I realize that doesn't mean much, could be buried in bondo. My thought was I would get the rear fender straightened and pounded out, then I could attack the body at some point once I know its fixable.

I was surprised at how dismissive the shops were of the idea. I think they make a lot more money on collision repairs with insurance companies than on restoration jobs with lots of unknown variables.

 

I was surprised at how dismissive the shops were of the idea. I think they make a lot more money on collision repairs with insurance companies than on restoration jobs with lots of unknown variables.

Quite true. With a modern car they tend to know what they're getting into and can get in & out (and get paid) quickly. With a restoration they fear having the car take up time & space in the shop that could have gone to the quick turn around jobs.

Ask around at Alfa car clubs (or any car clubs) to find the shops that will take on a job such as yours.

 

Last year I paid $6.5k to fix all of the dings and dimples and completely repaint my '79 backdate. The project took 8 months but I have to say it is an incredible paint job. Look at the other cars the shop has done and if you say WOW! You have the right shop. If not move on and keep looking.

Drew

 

As Alfajay says, most body shops are run on a collision repair model and aren't really geared to doing full repaints. If you read stories of people having a car in a shop for several years for a "bare metal paint job" you can bet it's being sandwiched in between more profitable crash repair jobs. The hard truth is that old cars just don't fit into their business model. There is, however, a way of working with a crash repair shop. If you find a conventional local body shop that does good work, you can get your Alfa fixed by fitting it into their business model. Basically you divide up the work you want done into various bites that the shop can handle without disrupting its normal work flow. I'd talk to the service manager and get his/her advice about how to proceed so that your car doesn't become a hangar queen that shop has to work around (the reason most production shops don't want to work on old cars). There'll be a lot of in-and-out and you may move between more than one shop but eventually you'll have a finished car.

 

Thanks guys... Yeah I agree on the dividing up thing, thats what I was thinking on the fixing the fender, and getting the trunk lid to fit, etc. I'd even have a go at some of the easier work. I'll keep searching around - there is a Euro-car show tomorrow so I plan on asking around there for references.

 

No shop in their right mind would quote the cost of repairs before a complete strip.

 

Given that most old cars have suffered decades of indifferent repairs and coats of paint, I think you're right about this. In such circumstances you really can't know what the body is like until you get the car stripped. Many shops will quote a separate price for stripping the car for just this reason. On the other hand I know of one shop that quoted a "bare metal respray" price of $30k for a very straight, rust free, round-tail spider.

However, if you have a fundamentally sound car, one that hasn't had body repairs and has its original or properly applied but weathered single state enamel, it would make a good candidate for a repaint without stripping to bare metal. If the original paint isn't cracked through the primer, single stage enamel makes a very good painting surface, especially if you plan to go back with single stage enamel.

 

I've gotten "estimates" from a 4 places now, realizing they are estimates. A couple of these shops do restorations, so they kind of know what they are getting into. So far the numbers are $2000 to fix the dent and straighten that out and estimates of $8000-12000 for the entire job (and I have to provide the panels). Now that the initial enthusiasm has worn off, I've decided to sell it (try to) and move on to a more solid example. I like the car and it does run and drive well, but it has its problems.

I'd love to see myself as the kind of guy that can strip the entire car, weld in new panels, paint it and put it back together, but truth is I haven't touched a mig welder in 20 years and am not blessed with unlimited time right now. So it is.

So...

Anyone want to buy a 1975 Spider? Just a few small dents...

 

Have you tried getting an estimate from a paintless dent repair place? Might not get it 100%, but might be good enough to live with.

 

unless you are attached to the car for some reason- do all the work urself- or just go buy one already done- if you pay someone you will have more money invested in it than what the car will be worth=

 

See if one of your shops is willing to do a cash deal and do the car as fill work. It my just be the way to do your S2 backdate.

Drew

 

Because you asked, Drive it for what it is, a dented convertible that sounds good and gives a smile on your face going down the road.
When the dent REALLY starts to bother you, you'll sell it for what you can get, and go buy a 'better' spider that will give you the same feeling but be in the condition you know you really want.

From everything I am reading in this thread, that's your move. Spiders are NOT hard to find in good external condition (heck there is a 1994 in Arkansas that looks **** good for like 3500). An S2 in GREAT condition is like 10k.

On this one, even if you spent 8k to get it straight, you still need to worry about the engine, suspension, fuel, blah blah blah. Better to buy someone's finished project after your are done driving this vs start your own project.

Ian

 

Yeah that was my thought. Even a perfect S2 isn't worth much more than $12k. And this one will never be perfect. But I like driving it, has a few things I can fix on here and there to keep me busy, and I'll just enjoy it. Nothing saying I cannot change my mind an straighten it out, but logically that wouldn't make much sense. I tend to form relationships with my cars though, so who knows...

Thanks everyone for the input, its appreciated.

 

Yeah that was my thought. Even a perfect S2 isn't worth much more than $12k. And this one will never be perfect. But I like driving it, has a few things I can fix on here and there to keep me busy, and I'll just enjoy it. Nothing saying I cannot change my mind an straighten it out, but logically that wouldn't make much sense. I tend to form relationships with my cars though, so who knows...

My two cents is to do what makes you happy, regardless of some potential economic benefit or loss. I'm currently spending more on body work and a paint job for my S3 than the car will be worth when I get it back.

Does it make sense? Objectively, of course not. Subjectively -- to me? -- it makes perfect sense.

This is my car, with all of its dings, warts, and issues. I could just buy a different S3 that someone has already redone for the price of the current work (even ignoring all that I have spent on other things like seats, suspension, and random failed parts). But that would be someone else's car, not mine.

Since you say that you've already formed a relationship with your car, you may be in the same place that I am. Follow your heart.

 

Body work assessment

Body work always costs more than you think, and restoration work always costs more than the initial estimate!!! Your options are simple...either do the bodywork and realize that you will almost never get that money out of the car unless it is a real "collectible"...or drive it "as is" and look for a car that is "exactly" what you want. When thinking about selling my GTV, a dealer asked me: "First, are you really emotionally detached from this car?" The point is: if you are not emotionally attached to the car, it is easier to make the correct financial decision, if you are emotionally attached to the car, then it makes no difference how much you spend on paint since your decision was based on feelings and not finances!