[Europa]

Thanks the heat outside kind of keeps me from fixing important things like my car.
Found two of these at the front under the bonnet arrows facing front.
The connections seems in a state you should not try to mess with . I hate that I havent been able to figure out how to replace them ....yet.
Same as for the ABS connections they look like s... too. Im not familiar with this Alfa model yet but became very familiar with the AR 156.......Alfa Romeo 156

Thanks for your help so far .
William L.

 

[144]

Those are crash sensors for the Airbag system.

 

[Alfisto Steve]

Fix for low alternator output on startup

Thanks RexCars for this

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/164-168-1991-1995/444769-low-alternator-output-startup-fixed.html

 

[Alfisto Steve]

Testing AR oil pressure senders

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/164...1991-1995/462874-testing-old-60507261-oil-pressure-senders-etc.html#post6612250

 

[Alfisto Steve]

Some 164 inner door handle repair info links

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/792357-post10.html

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/164.../forums/164-168-1991-1995/209223-handels-messiah-really-164-handles-misery.html

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/164-168-1991-1995/420906-164-inner-door-handles.html

 

[Alfisto Steve]

Some relay info for 164

The S12a 30A fuel pump relay AR 60805422 now AR 7612321 was a Bosch 0332014113 ss by Bosch 0332019151.

It is a Single pole double throw (SPDT) dual output both pins 87/87a when energized.

Older Bosch 0332014107 will work also as will many SPDT relays.

S12b 30A motronic red stripe w/diode Engine FI ECU relay AR 60807340 now 7619302 is Bosch 0332014112.

It is a Single pole double throw (SPDT) dual output both pins 87/87a when energized.


Used on some Jags, Range Rovers and BMW,

 

[Alfisto Steve]

Disassembled 60808222 Oil Fed Detensioner/Tensioner for V6

Disassembled 60808222 Oil Fed Detensioner/Tensioner for V6

60777065 seal kit

 

[Alfisto Steve]

G151 and G153 connector wiring pins, etc

G151 and G153 connector wiring pins, etc...

 

[Jim G]

Disassembled 60808222 Oil Fed Detensioner/Tensioner for V6

60777065 seal kit

Steve,

Remember there was a thick and thin gasket that came in the Alfa kits. It depend whether you had an early or late tensioner as to which one you used. Also the later tensioners had 2 rings that sealed the bearing where it swiveled on the tensioner.

 

[DanNZ]

I wondered if you could give me some advice?

This thread is very helpful! I need to replace my oil level sensor. I have an early 24V engine (1993 164QV in New Zealand) with the shallow pan. The parts manual indicates I need part 60563896. I've just bought one ex-EBay from Germany - see the top photograph. This was identified by the seller as part 60563896. However, there is another for sale on EBay that clearly looks shorter - see the bottom photograph. The Fiat/Lancia part isn't identified with a part number. From your experience do you think the sensor I've bought (the top one) is actually part 60512897, ie the longer sensor? I've asked the seller to confirm the model year the part came from before he sends but have yet to hear!

Many thanks for your expertise.

 

[DanNZ]

The seller has replied the oil level sensor is from a 1991 car - I guess this means it is the longer sensor. Can anyone confirm?

 

[Alfisto Steve]

I wondered if you could give me some advice?

This thread is very helpful! I need to replace my oil level sensor. I have an early 24V engine (1993 164QV in New Zealand) with the shallow pan. The parts manual indicates I need part 60563896. I've just bought one ex-EBay from Germany - see the top photograph. This was identified by the seller as part 60563896. However, there is another for sale on EBay that clearly looks shorter - see the bottom photograph. The Fiat/Lancia part isn't identified with a part number. From your experience do you think the sensor I've bought (the top one) is actually part 60512897, ie the longer sensor? I've asked the seller to confirm the model year the part came from before he sends but have yet to hear!

Many thanks for your expertise.

The seller has replied the oil level sensor is from a 1991 car - I guess this means it is the longer sensor. Can anyone confirm?

That part number is for shorter one for later 12v 164 and also the 24v.

Now is it really that one? I don't have an out of an engine to measure how long they are. New one in ebay pix seems much shorter but you need to know what part number it is to see what engine it is for. Wiring set up different than 164 V6.

 

[DanNZ]

Thanks for that. Would '91 qualify as a later 12V do you think? I've asked for the part number for the new part. I should probably just unscrew mine and take a look - I just don't really have the time during the week!

 

[Alfisto Steve]

Modifying door unlocking feature on 91-93 164 for driver safety

Recently reprogrammed door unlock feature on my wife's Chevy Malibu so only driver's door will unlock when removing ignition key not when putting car in park. This is a safety feature I feel is needed for women when exiting a car in a dark parking lot at night. the factory remote already has this feature for unlocking doors from outside - one click only unlocks driver's door and second click will unlock remaining three doors. Logic already in the newer cars.

However, this driver door only unlock feature not in our 164s.

Since my daughter now works night shift and has to enter or exit BB1 our 164L in the dark I added this security feature to BB1. I had it in Originale my now sold 164B for years.

Easy to do on 91-93 models maybe bit harder on 24v models with different door panels though.

To do the process get a ON/OFF toggle switch and some wiring and connectors.

Process:

1.Remove screws from arm rest and from bottom of driver's door panel lower half only.
2. Pop off lower panel leave arm rest attached inside upper door panel.
3. Locate brown-white wiring in connector for P1 driver door unlock actuator.
4. Cut wire, splice in to longer pieces of wire to each end of cut wire ( I found same color-coded wire by luck). Add female bayonet connectors to ends of wires.
5. Drill 1/2" hole in under side angle of arm rest and insert toggle switch and retaining nut.
6. Hook up wires to switch and test operation with switch on for normal all four doors unlock with either key in driver's door and by pulling driver's inner door handle.
7. I used long wiring in case if have to remove door panel and airm rest later on.

Note: all four doors will still unlock with center console button or passenger door key lock and all four doors will lock with driver's door key or remote but only driver's door will unlock with driver's door key or remote.

 

[axelhex]

Steve

Re: Central door locking malfunctions on AR 164.
Have you experienced intermittent central locking giving doors that suddenly don't open.
Is there a relay for the central locking and do you have any way to check the circuit?
Thank you for your previous help
Axelhex

 

[Alfisto Steve]

Steve

Re: Central door locking malfunctions on AR 164.
Have you experienced intermittent central locking giving doors that suddenly don't open.
Is there a relay for the central locking and do you have any way to check the circuit?
Thank you for your previous help
Axelhex

See pg 566 in 91-93 wiring manual.

Power door lock system relay I73 is left of relay socket in top row that has jumper bar for rear cigar lighter in G1 main fuse box. Relay powers F18 25A fuse. F18 is fuse 4 in top row of fuses. Relay powers fuse when key on.

Second system fuse is F16 10A fuse number 2 in top row. It powers N11 Central door locking control unit which is located up behind the glove box.

B20 central door locking control switch is in center console with window switches. Does this switch work? Does either front door lock work to unlock just respective door or all the doors?

 

[Alfisto Steve]

164 STRUTS possible source

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/164-168-1991-1995/509697-wktor-source-164-struts.html

 

[Alfisto Steve]

Changing 164 brake booster what a pain

Changing 164 brake booster what a pain especially on one with A/T.

Our 91 164L booster ruptured internal diaphragm.

Under the dash is the easy part just remove cotter key and clevis pin from brake pedal and remove four nuts holding booster to firewall.

Now the hard part:

It took me about 3 1/2 hours to get old one out and not sure how I will get new one back in with the limited space with cover on top of A/T.

I may have to remove L/F wheel and front inner fender liner and disconnect transmission mount to lower tranny and pull it forward. I need more room between firewall and top of tranny to squeeze booster in. I probably will have to disconnect engine top dog bone rod to pull tranny forward. I NEED MORE CLEARANCE!

I had to remove the following so far to get old one out:
1. Complete air cleaner, corrugated hose and AFM
2. Drain coolant and remove coolant tank
3. Master cylinder and reservoir
4. Throttle body from intake plenum
5. Disconnect heater hoses from engine and coolant tank T-fitting
6. Remove sealing plate around heater hoses from false firewall and slide off heater hoses and way forward on a/c hose.
7. Remove bracketery for wire bundles attached to A/T shock mount upper mounting bracket.
8. Disconnect all 12v wiring from G56 terminal at false firewall
9. Unclamp steel fuel return line from false firewall.
10. Unclamp main harness from false firewall
11, Disconnect G151 connector behind false firewall and pull harness out and lay it forward.
12. Disconnect power steering return hose to cooling tube from rack and disconnect pump supply hose at coupling near rack and drain fluid.
13. Remove P/S reservoir bolts and pull reservoir up to get hoses s away from front of booster.
14. Pull vac line check valve out of front of booster. I was able to leave vac line hooked to intake plenum
14. Disconnect grounding strap and wires from side of chassis near where air cleaner top corner is located.
15. Disconnect shift cable housing attach point from A/T. Once I did that and had moved all the power cables, ground cables

 

[Alfisto Steve]

Place holder for rest of the booster story as it unfolds.

Here is new used one I am going to install.

Some reassembly required but I managed to get replacement booster installed by removing tranny mount, lowering onto sub-frame and pulling tranny forward with ratchet strap to get some more clearance.

 

[axelhex]

Steve
The central lock switch works fine both lock and unlock.
The weird part is the front left and right rear door button(s) moves all the way up sometimes but other times go up 3/4 and won't allow the door(s) to open. I'll try WD40 and report back.

On another thing I have the sunroof open and it won't retract and I cannot detect any voltage at the switch (fuse is good). Any thoughts on how to diagnose/close this?
Thanking you,
Axelhex