Steve,

I think my 91L has the same problem. It squeals like a stuck pig most of the time and oiling the left side bearing only made me feel good as it changed the squeal not a bit.

Question is how hard to pull the blower unit out? It looks like a reasonably straight forward job. Anything tricky lingering abou that would be good to know about?

Thanks.

 

This is a write up Bob and I did some time ago about how to do it and change heater core too if needed:

http://www.lexingtonma.net/users/BobC/blower.php This link dead now, sorry

 

Alfa 164 and Saab 9000 blower motor housing info

Both assemblies very similiar and can be easily interchanged.

Attached are some pictures of housing showing lever that stepper motor cable for temp control hooks to.

Lever all the way back for full heat doors open to heater core. Lever all the way forward full a/c doors closed to heater core.

 

Disassembled blower motor housing

Some picture of case opened up, flapper doors and lever, spring clips and screws for case and motor screws and last picture shows one hidden screw you need to remove after removing spring clips holding cases together to get case to split open.

 

There is also a method for replacing the motor by cutting the plastic housing and lifting the motor out. After installation of the motor, reglue the removed half of the housing back into place. Search the 164 Digest for the discussion.

 

That was Walter Forlini's right up on doing it that way.

 

Steve,
How do you get the fan blade off the motor? I am doing this same exact procedure of the 24V and have a new Bosch motor in hand and have not figured out how to remove fan blade off with out breaking it? My homemade puller for Milano style blades does not fit.

 

Just stand unit up in open jawed vise supporting base of fan bottom ring on vise jaws with motor laying over a infamous shop red rag for cushioning when it falls free of fan. Then use a drift punch and hammer and gently drive motor shaft down out of fan hub.

To install new motor just rest motor armature end with pal nut on it on solid surface and gently hammer fan hub onto new splined motor shaft until flush with end of shaft.

 

I can't believe how great the posts are on this site. The pictures, numbering and description on how to remove the blower motor are absolutely the best. You guys make so much easier to own and maintain my Alfa that I can almost convince myself that its not much more trouble than a Toyota!

 

Steve,
I followed your directions and I was able to remove the fan blades without any issue. Great information that you provided.

 

I can almost convince myself that its not much more trouble than a Toyota

The 164 is better! The engines don't sludge up like the Toyotas do
And parts are usually cheaper
Paul

 

Well, Quik Silver back up and running with new Saab 9000 blower motor I got from ebay seller www.eEuroParts.com They also sell Saab 9000 front motor mounts which will work in the 164. Also heater cores and front lower suspension arms.

New Bosch number is 0 130 111 008 for blower motor.

You have to remove fan and unlock connector from old motor to install them on new motor.

 

Then you have to install fan on new motor and plastic alignment strap.

 

Is the blower motor the same unit in a 12V and 24V model????

 

Yes it is same motor.

 

Thanks!!!!

A note of thanks to Alfisto Steve.
I've had a broken double flap on my A/C Heating system in my '95 164 LS and have been trying to get this part from alfa for over 6 months. I went to the Web site "THESAABSITE.COM and ordered the parts I needed. They were delivered to me in a week. Thanks for the parts info Steve!!!
John C

 

Also www.difatta.com has them by the Alfa part numbers.

Isn't that amazing that now we have Saab numbers to add to cross reference list.

 

Doing another blower motor change out

Well, today I pulled out blower motor on Rosso 93L Rescue Society and it had a worn out set of brushes and commutor.

I tried a little different way to hold evaporator box up out of the way with a ratchet strap hold down attached to a braced open hood.

 

Steve, is this the heater core you were talking about? From 93 - 98 saab 9000

http://www.eeuroparts.com/productdetail.aspx?searchResults=1&code=5507

I also noticed suspension parts are a lot more expensive for the saab. I got my a-arms with ball joints and all bushings for $93/ea.

 

They list three different ones this one is a Valeo and cheaper priced for earlier models http://www.eeuroparts.com/productdetail.aspx?searchResults=1&code=6510

Notice note that says some cars have been modified to take later style like the link you posted. Not sure what the difference is.

They or someone else was also listing one made by Marelli.

The OEM Saab is all metal so cost more http://www.eeuroparts.com/productdetail.aspx?searchResults=1&code=5206

Looks like front suspension arms are more than that but front bushings only 9.90 http://www.eeuroparts.com/searchresults.aspx?&carid=1101&cat=1033 http://www.eeuroparts.com/productdetail.aspx?searchResults=1&code=5978

 

Are they all plastic or are some metal or more sturdy? Do you know what modification is necessary to use the others. It probably isn't worth the mod because they're probably just about the same.

 

They list the Saab OEM heater core as all metal and price is higher. The only difference I see in pictures of all three (if picture of actual parts) as compared to one in 164 is that on 164 one tube longer than other to offset hoses/clamps slightly.

I have not ordered one but have pulled a couple from Saab 9000s in Pick-N-Pull. Haven't found a metal one yet nor a black one all have been cream colored plastic like 164 but tubes not offset.

Here is another Saab parts link http://www.thesaabsite.com/9000/9000cooling.htm

 

Installed blower motor and refurbished A/C filter

Well, 93L Rosso now has working blower and A/C.

Pictues of heater core and temp stepper cable, installing blower motor, hooking up stepper temp cable on full cold postion and taping off back side of false fire wall.

Add to procedure the following: Wiper motor removal - Not sure if we spelled out removal procedure or not but not to hard to do. Remove black caps on wiper arm nuts, remove nuts, washers and arms. remove black caps on bolts near arm pivots, remove bolts/washers, remove metal bracket over right side pivot point, then remove hidden bolt above motor holding motor frame to ****pit wall.

You have to loosen round connector, remove connector round nut, slip out of metal bracket. Remove two nuts holding bracket to floor behind false firewall. remove black cover over blower motor relay.

Move wiper motor some and disconnect wiring connector to it and manipulate assembly until you work it out of car.
__________________

 

Replacing "horse hair filter in A/C unit

Once I got blower motor and false fiirewall installed I decided to check out A/C filter and replace old hair of filter with Home Depot foam kit.

 

at least mine appears to have been changed over the 210k miles...

Once I got blower motor and false fiirewall installed I decided to check out A/C filter and replace old hair of filter with Home Depot foam kit.

Gents - has anyone looked into a heat shield over the cooling components sitting just under the hood? Thinking about cutting up a window sun-screen (AL and foam...)

 

back to th original question, is there a fuseable link of some sort inside the false firewall box? because it looks like it's just a box for letting 2 heavy duty leads pass thru the firewall cos I can't see anyfuses in there?!?

 

If cars wiring has not been modified there are two 40A thin aluminum fuse bars G254/255 attached in little black boxes to front and back of the G56 terminal box mounted on false firewall. Front one for radiator cooling fan and rear one for blower motor. Check both sides of small terminals that fuse bar attached too with small 8mm (5/16") nuts for 12v. Usually a hairline crack in this small thin fuse bar will stop motor. These fuse links get their power from that large terminal box.