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Alfa 164 - Alfisto Steve's Maintenance Tips

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Discussion starter · #21 ·
Discussion starter · #23 ·
Alfa 164 Type 31P Batteries info

Alfa 164 Type 31P batteries info

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NAPA battery # BAT 7235 Type 31P is one website calls for 164
CA@32F 1190 CA
CCA@0F 950 CCA
Reserve capacity 195 minutes@ 25 amps
Test state of charge when voltage greater than 12.4v
Load test 475 amp
from NAPA website

I found I have one of each of these Interstate batteries in two of our 164s:

31P-MHD CCA@0F 950 CCA this is one Interstate website calls for ther 164
CA@32F 1190 CA

31P-VHD CCA@0F 660 CCA
CA@32F 825 CA


I have Two Exide 60 Type 27 batteries in other two 164s
CCA@0F 700 CCA
CA@32F 850 CA
Reserve Capacity 120 minutes@25 amps

It doesn't get much colder than 32F here in Virginia Beach.
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
Identifying 164 12v cam shafts

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/mil...bb/forums/milano-75-1987-1989/160394-identifying-164s-camshafts.html#post832489

All 12v V6 164 cams:

L/H cam 3033 is longer and has notch at rear to drive 164 distributor and timing mark on #2 bearing journal same as GTV6/Milano.

R/H cam 3031 shorter cam and timing mark on #3 bearing journal same as GTV6/Milano.

164B/L intake lobe height 9.1mm (0.360") exhaust 6.4mm (0.250")
164S intake lobe height 10.1mm (0.400") exhaust 6.4mm (0.250")


I have a set of 164S cams that also have a B698 stamped on end of R/H cam amd B698 stamped on shaft of L/H cam.
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
Removing inner door panel and outer door handle

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/847414-post2.html

Removing inner door panel 91-93 164 and replacing outer handle

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You have to remove screw under inner handle to slide piece in front of handle forward away from arm rest inner handle, then remove three screw holding arm rest, next look inside round defog hole in front of upper door panel remove screw inside hole, remove small screw in triangle defog fairing near front of door, remove defog fairing, look for small screw holding rear of upper door panel to door in area behind arm rest remove if installed.

Lower window full down, lift upper door panel straight up off door starting at rear and do not pull out as you lift as there are two fragile plastic hooks that break. Plan on regluing them with J-B Weld or equal as they always seem to break off anyway.

As you lift upper panel upper end of arm rest will unlock from spring lock in door.

Once upper panel off, raise window full up so you can see two 8mm nuts and a notched metal slide plate holding outer door handle to door, remove nuts, plate and remove outer door handle and rubber gasket and lever rod. Pay attention to where/how lever rod plugs into door latch lever inside door by window track.

Now compare new and old handle to be sure you have a correct handle for the position you are replacing as front and rear handles have different length arms that lever rod hooks to.

Install lever rod on new door handle and reinstall rod, rubber gasket and handle into door, align rod into door latch lever as you lower door handle into door. Install notch plate and two nuts/washers to hold outer handle in place.

Test door for proper operation of outer handle, if OK lower window glass again and reinstall upper door panel (repair plastic notch pieces first if broken). Check the three anchor nuts in door panel for arm rest reposition/reinstall as needed. Test screw in threaded to be sure threads in good shape.

Pop upper end of arm rest back into spring lock in door. Hook up wires to light in rear of arm rest, install screws, install defog fairing install rest of screws in round defog hole, under inner handle to hold piece that slides under handle and latches on round plastic tab.

If you are doing driver's side slide panel in front of inner door handle has mirror switch in it and if you have disconnect wiring it has a tricky set of locks to unhook connector.

If you ever have to remove bottom half of door panel it has 5-6 very small screws in very bottom edge of door and it pops onto door with two plastic panel tabs.
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
Discussion starter · #30 · (Edited)
Discussion starter · #34 ·
Parts list for doing 164 12v V6 timing belt, water pump and hose change

I updated some part numbers today on this list so thought I would repost

Parts list for doing 12v timing belt , water pump and hose change.
AR p/n Nomenclature IAP#
60562106 timing belt 11005
alt Dayco 95120 or 94423 size 134SX254
60588421 Tensioner , mechanical 41267
60555347 water pump* alt 71713045 38765 NOW 71737989
60777086 gasket w/p 20251 alt 60507414
60808356 hose sleeve to rear head 28536 NOW 60573501
60808355 hose sleeve to front head 28517 ALT 10129086 NOW 60604023
60615713 gasket, metal lower to pump 20004 (paper) Alfa paper gasket p/n 60552316
15248711 bolts, thermostat M7x55mm long
60507415 gasket, thermostat upper 20001
60507416 gasket, thermostat mid housing 20002
60559862 thermostat neoprene 35007
60512902/60574777 belt, PS Dayco 15310 15529
60513889 belt, alt 5050273 Dayco 15527
60571636 belt, w/p 5070425 Dayco 15525
60507327 o-ring cam pulley hub (2) if needed 25254
60610985 seal, cam pulley and aux shaft (3) 8164
60510276 hose, long 28529 Top Radiator
60560822/60510278 hose, short lower/mid thermostat to steel pipe 28533
60560859/60510275 hose, lower to radiator 28512
60510277 hose, lower steel pipe to steel pipe 28532
 
Discussion starter · #35 · (Edited)
Info on 164 front and rear windshields and trim pieces, etc:

Info on 164 front and rear windshields and trim pieces, etc:
Alfa 164 Windshield Glass and Trim info

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Couple things to understand first off:

Original front windshield AR 60544795 before VIN 6269442 were thinner 3/16" (0.1875") and trim channels narrower to fit that glass thickness.

Newer windshields closer to 7/32" (0.218") really about 540mm (0.213") and new trim has wider channels to fit thicker glass.

So if thin windshield being replaced by new thicker ones older thin trim will not slip onto thicker glass.

My spare FW0666GGN (AR 6056681) OEM heated Sekurit brand windshield from Prosource Glass Internatiional is the thicker version.

They now carry the thinner aftermarket versions. Their web site: Prosource Glass International Contact Us

I think that the approximate thickness of current replacement after market front windshields is also 7/32" (540mm).

Thick windshields take 60561711 top, 60561712 R/H and 60561715 (L/H and NLA) trim channels.

I just made a new 60561715 L/H trim piece from a damaged in shipment new top 60561711 trim channel using metal shears and a dremel tool. Not perfect but I believe it will work in a pinch. I had to use rubber side seal piece from a damaged thin R/H trim piece to finish off this homemade L/H trim piece as top trim piece rubber seal is different.

These eper pdf files show windshield parts, riveted on angle pieces 60508423/24 and black rubber seal side molding channels 60509713 info and rear window info, too
Attached Images 164 windshield trim1.pdf (90.2 KB, 0 views)
164 windshield trim2.pdf (118.9 KB, 0 views)
164 windshield trim3.pdf (133.0 KB, 0 views)
164 windshield trim4.pdf (86.6 KB, 0 views)
 

Attachments

Discussion starter · #36 ·
Parts list for 164 fuel pump hose replacment, etc...

Parts list for 164 fuel pump hose replacment, etc...

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Some more info on Jason's list of those items you may or may not need:

60572049 SEAL GASKET (rubber bushing around fuel pump) PLAN ON THIS BEING GOOEY AND NEEDING REPLACEMENT.

82404491 PAD (anti slip pad) goes under bottom of outer basket USUALLY MISSING OR PETRIFIED REMAINS IN BOTTOM OF TANK

82393601 inner FUEL FILTER (basket) old number 60801760 USUALLY CLEANABLE/REUSEABLE

82435326 PAN (bottom outer pan) old number 60801388 USUALLY CLEANABLE/REUSEABLE BUT MAYBE HAVE BROKEN CLIPS ON OUTSIDE TO LOCK IT TO STAINLESS STEEL SUPPORT STRAPS can be repaired using small bolts/nuts to attach straps.

60777347 HOSE "infamous" 2" of 5/16" 7.9mm submersible fuel injection hose SAE30R10
You can live with non-submersible SAE30R9 hose if you can't get submersible and you don't keep tank full.

60807693 also infamous submersible second hose VIN 6250454 and up Probably about 4"
19036387 also second infamous second hose 94-95 164 models about 2-4" long.
These bottom hoses IF YOUR LATER VIN 164 HAS THEM should be submersible spec hose as they are under fuel even if tank isn't full.

60801761 COVER top over rubber pump bushing USUALLY CLEANABLE/REUSEABLE

82419135 SEAL GASKET o-ring for return/feed lines USUALLY REUSABLE.

8 SEALING WASHERS BONDED (statoseals) for tank cover bolts (USA models) #12 size but #10 size will work. Home Depot carries these in hardware section.
Use #8 size on fuel gauge sender cover if you ever remove it for any reason
 
Discussion starter · #37 · (Edited)
Changing Clutch on a 164

Changing Clutch on a 12v 91-93 164

The 164S and 164LS/Q very similiar but they have pull clutches not push type and 24v models have a reverse gear lock out cable

Project: Replacing bad clutch on a 1992 164L

Disconnect battery ground cable from battery in trunk before starting project.

1. Remove protection cover next to left headlight, lossen/remove thermal switch from radiator just long enough to drain down coolant tank in a catch pan. Reinstall thermal switch and protection cover.
2. Remove air clearner top and bottom.
3. Remove coolant tank.
4. Remove inlet hose after popping out idle actuator and oil separator hose.
5. Disconnect back up light switch wiring and if S suspension switch wiring connector(s).
6. If still installed remove black plastic rectangle cover over shift linkage on top of tranny.
7. Loosen wheel lug bolts slightly if you don't have air impact gun.
8. Now jack up front of car with two floor jacks if later model with jack points on outer front corners of sub frame. One jack in center point if earlier model.
9. Place two jack stands under two front body jacking points under front door areas.
10. Remove front wheels and left inner front fender liner.
11. Loosen 6 bolts until nuts come off that are holding inner CV joint of axle to tranny with 8mm allen head socket and 1/2" drive adapter and cheater bar set up if air impact gun won't break them loose. Working solo I used a 2x4 against brake pedal and one in seat and then ran seat forward to hold brake pedal on so I could break bolts loose.
12. Remove 6mm allen head bolt holding ABS sensor to steering/wheel hub carriage and hoping if not rusted in place remove sensor.
13. Remove two 13mm bolts while holding sliding pins with 15mm wrench from brake caliper.
14. Loosen/remove 17mm from outer tie rod end and using a tie rod end seperator pop it loose from from steering arm.
15. Remove three 13mm nuts from lower ball joint.
16. Loosen four 17mm bolts holding lower end of stut to wheel hub/steering carriage.
17. Remove three 13mm nuts from top of strut and remove strut.
18. Now lift brake caliper off rotor and support inner pad if it has sensor wires and tie securely the inner pad and caliper as an assembly up into hole where you took strut out of.
19. Remove three bolts holding lower ball joint to lower suspension arm and now remove axle, brake rotor and steering carriage as an assembly.
20. Drain fluid out of tranny by removing plug in bottom of differential case (lowest point). You can remove drain plug in front of tranny case to check magnetic plug but differential drain will get all the fluid out.

END OF DAY 1 STAYED TUNED.

21. Remove 17mm hex head bolt from large end of upper motor mount (dog bone).
22. Place jack under tranny.
23. Working through left wheel well, remove tranny mount from tranny and subframe and remove bolt and disconnect ground strap from end of tranny 5th gear case.
24. Lower tranny onto subframe to get more room to work on shfit linkage. etc.
25. Disconnect wiring connector to speedometer sender.
26. Remove starter cable holding bracket by removing 13mm bolt from back of differential case.
27. Remove long 13mm hex head bolt holding shifter Y-yoke fitting to tranny shift rod (13mm nut on back).
28. Remove long 17mm hex head bolt from reaction rod (nut on back of bolt is only 10mm).
29. Now remove two 13mm hex head bolts holding reaction rod bracket to tranny.
30. Slide shifter rod rearward out of case enough to remove hidden 17mm hex head bolt (T-bone has to slip off rod pay attention to which way it goes for reassemly later).
31. Loosen slightly remaining four 17mm hex head and one allen head bolts in bell housing and remove three 13mm hex head bolts holding clutch slave cylinder to tranny (if rubber boot bad retain piston with C-clamp).

If car still has hockey puck in line damper bolted to air cleaner bracket plane on removing and installing new hose from slave to rigind line at fire wall while tranny out

32. Now go under car, remove three 10mm hex head bolts holding steel cover over flywheel.
33. Moment of truth has arrived as you hunt for and remove hidden top 13mm hex head bolt holding starter. Use socket and extensions long enough to stick out past front of starter.
34. Remove remaining two starter bolts.
35. Remove 8mm allen head bell housing bolt located under starter.
36. Place piece of wood under oil pan and jack up engine and tranny as high as possible without starting to lift car.
37. Remove remaining bell housing bolts you already lossened.
38. Pry and pull tranny off engine and intermediate axle.
39. Lift/jack tranny up onto subframe.
40. Slide shifting rod all the way out of tranny and remove speedometer sender with 7/8" (22mm) crowsfoot to get more clearance when sliding tranny out of wheel well.
41. Remove tranny through opening in wheel well over top of sub frame. Tight fit but it will go.


I managed to get easy stuff done this afternoon, Jack standed car, removed stuff out of left wheel well such as axle and carriage assembly, strut, fender liners and tied up brake caliper. Drained fluid out of tranny, drained/removed coolant tank, removed air cleaner and inlet hose.
__________________
 
Discussion starter · #38 ·
Helpful tip from Tom's father:

Disassembling 5th gear

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Finally pulled the good gears out my parts tranny to replace my 5th gear that had a bolt head run through it, breaking several teeth. My ancient mechanic father showed my a good trick for locking the gears to take the big nuts off, jam the gears with a penny. Never thought of that before, and it worked perfectly leaving no damage to anything but the penny.

Tom
 
Discussion starter · #39 · (Edited)
Removing 164 gas tank procedure

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Subj: Removing fuel tank

Rough draft


Access tank top in trunk by removing front carpet wall after removing 4 plastic push button retainers inside ski boot box.

Remove black plastic covers (two phillips screws and two 8mm nuts) over tank cover.

Disconnect wiring to pump cover and gauge sender (two connectors).

Remove nut and retainer bar holding fuel pressure and return tube elbows to tank cover (spray elbows with WD-40 and rotate to lub orings) use a forked tool to carefully pop elbows out of tank cover.

Disconnect two vent tube rubber elbows by unlocking clamps carefully with end cutter pliers (clamps are relockable if you unlock them carefully.

Again spray rubber vent elbows with WD-40 and carefully remove larger one from tank cover and smaller one from flexible black tubing inside on top of tank access opening.

If you are going to now pull fuel pump or gauge sender remove the 7 allen head bolts in tank cover or 8 smaller allen head bolts in gauge sender.

If you are going to drop tank out wait the remove pump until tank out of car.
Now loosen rear wheel lugs, jack up rear of car under trunk area with wide wood block such as 4x4 high enough to get wheels off ground. Install two jack stands under rear body jacking points under rear doors.

Remove wheels, disconnect fuel pipe in right rear wheel well from filler hose.

Remove four 17mm hex headed bolts holding swaybar to rear trailing arms.

Howver, if it seems the four bolts are frozen in trailing arms you can just remove the two bolts in trailing arms attaching point to body bracket and lower arms and sway bar enough to get tank out.

Remove 10mm bolt from brake cable clamp from right side of tank, cut spot tie holding brake cable together in front tank.

Remove four 13mm hex head bolts holding rear cross member to body, pop two brake line loose from body clamp above cross member as cross member now hangs on suspension arms.

Place floor jack under gas tank and remove three 13mm hex head bolts holding tank to car. Separate brake cables at front of tank.

Now lower tank out of car.

Remove fuel pump cover and pump assembly if not already removed.

If you have to remove old fuel from tank I suggest you hang it up from ceiling support or tree limb on a ratchet strap hooked into tank cover opening and tilting tank to pour fuel out filler pipe into catch can(s).
 
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