Even when I attach my transmission/bellhousing to the engine on the garage floor (prior to installing them as a unit), I can never get them all the way together just using my bare hands. So if you can get them to within 3/4" by working underneath your car, you are doing well.

I generally use a piece of 5/16" threaded rod in one of the upper block-bellhousing bolt holes, and apply a large C-clamp diagonally across from that. It doesn't take much force, but more than this 68-year old man can apply manually. Don't know if you'll have enough space to apply these aids with the engine in place.

 

It seems like you are having trouble aligning the input shaft with the pilot bushing. Be cautious about applying a lot of force as you can tear up the bushing. Been there, done that.

 

This.

I am horrified at the suggestion of using force in another post.

The clutch disc needs to be installed dead centre and then you need to put the gearbox in gear and turn the output shaft so the input shaft and clutch disc happily mate. Wiggle a bit and so on.

This is standard procedure when installing any gearbox, and has been covered in other posts
Pete

 

I'll ask the question.....did you use a clutch alignment tool. If you are not aligned with the pilot hole in the flywheel that will be a no go.
I made a couple longer studs that I replace the regular studs. I cut a slot in the end so that once up flush with block I insert a flat blade screwdriver and remove and replace the original studs The longer studs support and line everything up before the final push in .
Cheers, Jon

 

That’s my guess but my clutch/ flywheel alignment tool slides right in. Even while turning to output shaft / input shaft ( in gear) still can’t get er to go

 

Here's a long shot:
Is it the same transmission?. I had a similar situation several decades ago, and found that one of the locating pins had stuck in the engine block and the replacement transmission had a locating pin in the same place. When I tried to install the transmission, the "new" locating pin pushed the existing pin into the block; preventing the new pin and transmission from moving that last 3/4 inch.

Or:
1. Is the transmission main shaft entering the pilot bearing on the crankshaft?
2. Are the main shaft splines entering the matching splines on the clutch disc?
3. Did you use one of the plastic alignment tools to locate the clutch disc when installing the pressure plate then hang on the tool and cause the clutch disc to loose alignment? (ask me how I know not to do this).

 

Installing the trans

It can be a b!tch!

First, loosen the motor mounts at the two bottom fasteners, drop the steering "center link". Then the front of the motor can be raised farther to make room to install the trans.
To ease this part of the install I cut off the protruding two top bolt hole flanges on the Bell Housing to make more clearance on for the ones built for my racecar. The motor and tran`s mount locations keep the pressure on the interface pinched closed, and the rest of the studs/bolts are way beyond holding the torque load.
(makes trans changes faster and easier)

I generally grind the leading edges of the splines on the input shaft so they taper to facilitate getting the shaft into the clutch disk. As well a taper on the front of the pilot snout does the same there.

A plastic alignment tool works, but using a cutoff input shaft does better, but you still have to manually hold the shaft`s end up to keep the disk centered.

 

I think conedriver's onto something with his suggestions. But just a basic question... did you replace the pilot bushing that was in the flywheel? If so, how did you drive it in? Is the same transmission going back on that was in there?

 

Did you undo the exhaust at the center muffler so the engine will tilt back further?

 

Invoked the nuclear option. To answer all, yes exhaust fully off, yes used alfa centering tool to center clutch ; yes motor mounts loosened, same trans that cane off the car 2 weeks ago. Pilot bearing in great shape, not replaced.

Pulled the motor this morning and set it down. Got the clutch alignment tool and it went in , not easily, but not too hard either. Got a real input shaft and that was way harder to install all the way. So loosened the clutch plate, realigned , and torqued 18 ft lbs . Trans slipped right on, took 30 seconds. Reinstalled back into car.

Here’s what I think happened. When I pulled the trans off, I probably rested too much weight on the splines as I have no trans jack etc. the leverage moved the clutch plate on the flywheel and alignment was just a hair off. Enough to frustrate. I should have left the motor in the car and realigned it in-situ; alas done deal.

At 58 and a one man band it’s tough to do this stuff solo. Thanks to me friends who helped me out with support and wrasslin that motor back in. Now gotta our everything back together and see how we go!

 

For different reasons it seems like I need to remove and install the engine and transmission on my '76 autocross Spider every few years. I also do this by myself, and I'm 10 years older than that upstart alfaloco (no offense, Dave).

Things that help:

1. A Harbor Freight transmission jack. Under $100. Definitely worth it - even for just one use, and you can probably sell it on the BB since other owners remove transmissions (mine is NOT for sale)

2. As Goats found, use a spare transmission input shaft to align the clutch disc (instead of the plastic alignment tool sold by suppliers)

3. Use a small Dremel grinding stone to deburr the front edges of the splines on the transmission mainshaft. Eases the insertion into the clutch disc Edit. Richard Jemison beat me to this suggestion

4. A good set of lock ring pliers to remove and reinstall the clutch slave cylinder. And, don't forget to secure the little piston so it doesn't fall out & leak brake fluid all over the floor.

 

Nothing succeeds like success, Goats. I've got good news for you, as a 69 year old guy.

That sh*t doesn't get any easier to do, buddy! :grin2:

 

George, you're a legend in your own garage! I don't know how you do it. Aleve is my best friend, most days... :wink2:

 

I've have found that using the input shaft to install the clutch then tap on it with a rubber mallet until it slides in and out easily is the way to go.

 

I had to remove my engine last week. I too am a senior citizen and I work alone. I dropped the gearbox and then lifted out the engine, both of which are one man jobs, but I will probably recruit some help the put them back in the car together. Thankfully I have a lift in the garage as I am too old to do these jobs lying on my back.

 

2 x 325 mg aspirin this morning and my body is still aching!

 

Just adding some pictures since this thread helped me.

I used to put Alfa gearboxes on my chest under the car and shove them into place. They were all mechanical clutch where you could see from under them what was going on to some degree. Eventually I started using a transmission jack and that made it just easy breezy.

But this go round was a hydraulic clutch box on the garage floor. Doing it on the garage floor...thought it would be a piece of cake. I can't believe what a PITA it was. Just sliding the the clutch disk (solo - disassembled from the clutch assembly) onto the main shaft splines was tight. Nevertheless, the advice above @Alfajay was super helpful...except I ended up using threaded rod on both sides...worked better than a C-clamp for me.

At any rate, here's a picture in case useful to anyone who comes across this thread.

 

Dude 100% congrats. Between my post in 2018 and now I’ve done 2 more - by yanking the motor! Once bitten twice shy I guess — I’m at the point where pulling the motor is 45 minutes max, adding the trans is about 5 minutes, and reinstalling the motor and trans together - solo - with a load balancer - is another hour to get the motor mounts in place, bolts/nuts on (loose) . Another 2 ish hours for ex mani- downstream stuff adjusted and secured, interior stuff installed and secured, etc etc. At 64 years old - and a major loss of my core strength and arm strength —completely of my own doing — hinders me. I have to work smarter — and longer — these days! Being under the car for me is no fun. Bad eyesight, cold concrete floor, up/ down getting tools etc - it really is harder for me now than it was only 7 or 8 years ago.
Good on ya ! By hook or by crook we figure it out and make it work!!!

 

I don't know who coined the phrase "the golden years", but they were either paid off or full of sh * t. There's nothing golden about arthritis in your hands, aches and pains when the weather turns, diminishing eyesight or any of the other unexpected maladies that accompany the aging process.
That's why I spent the $$ for my lift back in 2010.
Now retirement... that is indeed golden because you can work at your own agenda, at your own pace.

 

Now retirement... that is indeed golden because you can work at your own agenda, at your own pace.

Amen to that. I remember the days of feverishly working on my '69 BMW 1600 (usually on the cooling system) as the sun was setting, because I need it to be running for the next day's commute. Now I can view that sort of situation as "eh, maybe I'll do it next week".

 

Retirement....sometimes it can take all day to do nothing (at least that's what I've heard)!

 

Hey Scott

Amazon.com

This is the rig. One end attaches to the motor hook (usually placed at #2 head studs, but I like to put it on #3) and the other to a strap that runs down below the crank pulley and pulled up tight. The top hook goes onto the hoist. By turnin the lead screw, the load gets shifted from one side to the other. So start with it level -- motor and trans level when you hoist off the floor -- roll the motor/trans over the car and then start to drop the back end and wiggle / jiggle the motor and trans into place, keep raising the front - dropping the back until the trans slips under the car, then re-level. Sounds complicated but it isnt. After doing it once - it will take you 30-40 minutes -- repeats are <20 minutes. Make sure you oil the lead screw up good, and make sure the strap you use under the crank pulley is stout enough to handle the load!

 

One more thing -- I dont have an issue leaving the trans in, and pulling / installing the motor solo either. I can usually get the input shaft in pretty easily, and I use the flywheel teeth (lever the teeth with a big screwdriver or pry bar) to turn the crank to get it to slip on. This way I dont have to crawl under the car.

I simply had a bad time trying to install a trans from underneath. So once bitten twice shy I guess.

 

Ooooh....I like this load leveler idea, though! Even just putting the engine itself in, seems even better for aligning the mounts. Thanks for sharing. I'm still a couple months out from putting the motor back in, but I think I'm gonna try doing engine+gearbox as a unit since I've never done it that way.

 

I have gotten in the habit of putting a small bevel on the back of the pilot bushing. Does wonders for helping the input shaft find the proper position when mating the transmission to the engine.

 

@PSk - if you’re referring to me, no force was used. I was able to tighten the threaded rod with essentially an index finger on the wrench. Challenge for me was since the motor was on the floor, it liked to nudge forward every time I tried to push the gearbox on. Having done this a time or two (or ten) from underneath the car, I think the rods were actually less force and smoother because it was easier to keep the alignment dead on.

But as a PSA I’ll just remind any future readers of this thread, like with anything, exercise a little common sense… never force any machined parts that aren’t meant to be pressfit.

 

One thing you might consider is putting the trans in 5th gear. If you need to rotate the input shaft so it engages the clutch disc, you can do it this way. Sometimes the splines are not aligned. The last inch is frustrating as the input shaft will not go into the pilot bearing. Once the trans is on the long studs it should slide right on in. Just a wiggle left/right/up/down will get it to seat home. As I get to that last inch, I look to see if the gap is narrow or wider at the top/bottom and use the jack on the rear of the trans to make sure things are square. Boom, it slides in.
Once I spent a good hour trying to get an engine to seat against the trans. I was ready to burn the car. I walked away for an hour, came back and in one minute I had it home. I never did figure out what was going on.
Send me a text if you need some help, I would like to return the favor.

 

I walked away for an hour, came back and in one minute I had it home

Yes the best tool in our toolbox, which I do not use enough
Pete

 

You have to allow for time wasted roaming around the shop trying to remember what you walked away from the project looking for