Soak the bolts in PB blaster for a while, use a short handle wrench 13mm as I can recall. Easiest way is to work from UNDERNEATH the car. From the top you have to remove the idle controll, plenum and other misc. vacuum hoses... A pain in the a**. A hoist works best or if you know someone that has one. Yes it's a tight squeeze and hope the one I replaced four years ago lasts me at least twenty years. *chuckle*

 

... the three big bolts are installed backwards as their heads are nearest the rear of the car...

Yup. No big deal in an Alfetta with a slightly larger engine bay, but in my Spider at least I could not take out the center bolt towards the rear, as the chassis was in the way - I ended up CUTTING the bolt with a power tool in situ.
Luckily you don't neccessarily have to actually remove it, unless
A) the bolt is damaged
B) it isn't the special bolt with a 'shoulder' that keeps the starter from moving.

If the bolt was installed backwards, the one who did it might not have used the correct type. You might get lucky and it won't cause problems for years, but an incorrect bolt regularly caused my starter to seize on my GTV, and it's not funny. Even less so on a Spica Spider.
Come to think of it, I'm not sure if the correct bolt would even work as intended if installed backwards. I'd try to install 'em 100% correctly if the starter is out anyway. Good luck!

 

It's my understanding that all 3 of the starter retaining bolts, at least on the S3 models, are installed from the rear, i.e., bolt head is on the bellhousing side, nuts/washers on the block/starter side.

 

Hey guys. Mine is an S2.

So there's no plenum etc...

 

I took a regular 13 open end and extended it with a long stick about the size of a yard stick by taping the wrench tightly to the stick larger flat side. I stuck it down the fire wall to the bolt head and then used a long extension under the plenum to remove the nuts. I removed the distributor to get more had space. I also removed the fuel return line to keep from breaking it. I do think one of the bolts is removed from below. Been a long time... but do disconnect the battery first.

 

The shoulder bolt { the center bolt } goes in from the starter side. The other 2 bolts go in from the bellhousing side. If you have the correct bolts in your car. The shoulder bolt is a 14mm head. The other 2 bolts are 16mm head and all the nuts are 13mm.

 

Hmm, I think you're right.... I thought they all went in the same way. It's been so long since I've done this operation on my Spider.

 

I've taken the starter out of my old '72 Spider several times, and yes, it was a little annoying. It sounds like your bolts are installed correctly. I used a combination of wrenches and ratcheting socket wrenches, depending on each bolt. And yes, you have to turn them a millimeter at a time. I'm not sure if there are any additional things in the way in your engine compartment.... but I doubt it, since it is SPICA just like mine was. It shouldn't be too bad... just have diligence and patience!

 

Yes, like Andrew said, a millimeter at a time, slow and painful.

 

I can get some extra room by taking the fuel filter off, and moving a few wires out of the way, but are there some additional tricks or specialty tools I might need?

Having a set of ratchet extensions and metric swivel sockets which can get into hard to reach places not meant for a wrench. I suggest 20, 12, 6, and 3" - 3/8 drive extensions with, 19, 17, 15, 14, 13, 12, and 10 mm flex sockets - 3/8 drive, and of course a 3/8 drive ratchet.

Once you get used to reaching for and using these tools instead of a wrench I guarantee you'll be saying "That was easier than I thought it would be?"

I have ten years working as a Transmission Rebuilder and I pulled out a lot of starters. I'd only use the wrench to hold the nut/bolt head and break it loose with a ratchet/impact wrench at the other end. I usally used impact tools instead of ratchets, but not all hobbyists have an air compressor.

If you're going to use an impact gun make sure that the flex sockets are impact flex sockets. Non-impact flex sockets can fly off the end of a socket extension and hit you in the face.

It's always easier to move what's in the way out of the way rather than work around it. It doesn't take that much longer in the grand scheme of things. You're able to inspect and repair something that you don't normally see when doing routine maintenance.

 

Remove the Washer bottle from the firewall. Remove the lead to the oil pressure sensor and remove the sensor. That opens up a world of room in there to get to those bolt heads and yes the bolts, sans the shoulder bolt, come in from the bell-housing side.
Like everyone else said, find the best combination of wrenches you have and work a little at a time....

 

Got the starter out. Became much easier when I bought a 16mm open end wrench!

The PO had put the shouldered bolt in the wrong hole; the one on the bottom. I've read this causes alignment problems.

Took the solenoid off and tested it. Seems to work fine, off the car. Put it back on and tested the starter and solenoid. Naturally, everything works now.

I've gotten an estimate to have the starter rebuilt for $105 plus parts.

Should I just put it back on and see if it works? Pain in the arse, but I don't need to spend the bucks unless I have to... It's already been rebuilt once - there's a sticker that says so.

 

Took the solenoid off and tested it. Seems to work fine, off the car. Put it back on and tested the starter and solenoid. Naturally, everything works now.

Hmm... What was originally happening in the first place, leading you to think that the starter needed to be rebuilt?

 

Rebuild the starter since it's out! While it's out you can detail the engine :grin2:

 

I can't answer for your pocket book but think about the age of your car (and starter). Pull it again, rebuild it, reinstall and forget about it.

I had the head off my '84 a couple of years ago and while cleaning up the block I realied that I needed to take advantage of the easy access to the starter and get it rebuilt. I was having no issues but the thing was 30 years old. Think I paid about $80 or so for the rebuild.

 

I put it back on.

It turns over, but very weakly and then makes a weird surging noise.

Pulling it off again, and taking it to the shop.

 

Auto Electric and Battery in Hillsboro does a great job. They bead blast and paint your starter or alternator to look like new. I've had 1 starter and 1 alternator done by them.

 

Thanks John. I'm in NE PDX. Taking it to ABE electric on the eastside.

 

Purchase a set obstruction wrenches from Harbor Freight. My dad used to call them starter wrenches and I now know why! Makes the job much easier.

 

All,

I just put a Performatek gear reduction starter in my '73. Wow!!!!, what a difference. Yes, it is expensive but it spins the engine like a top. It's also a boat load lighter than the original starter.

Bob J.

 

Do you still have your instructions? I bought mine a long time ago, I still have the starter but can't find the instructions. I'm looking for the wiring instructions.

I'd really appreciate a walk through.

Bob

 

Horsewidower,

I think the wiring is pretty simple. I don't think Performatek included any wiring diagrams with the new starter. Since I'm still in recovery mode from major knee surgery for a ruptured quadricep tendon (NOT a good injury to have BTW) I wimped out and had a local car repair shop do it. They charged me for 3 hours of labor. I've seen other posts that said that to get the old starter out one needed various extensions and thin crescent wrenches to remove the bolts. Since the new one is much smaller and lighter I think it goes in much faster than the old one comes out. Andy Kress sent me some photos showing the gear reduction starter on an Alfa. PM me and I an send them to you. I also have a large scale wiring diagram for 72-73 GTVs that I can send you. I had the Spider diagram printed at 2X3 ft. and laminated at the copy shop. It's posted on my garage wall.

Bob J.

P.S. I love your posts on the renovation of your GTV. I am forever grateful that I've owned my '73 Spider since I drove it off the lot brand new. With all of the stupid things that previous owners do to cars at least I know that I was the stupid previous owner!