It's been an interesting couple of days chasing the CL "13 164."
In the end I salvaged the operation by picking up this 164LS. Running when parked, still with valid registration sticker, but stuck in neutral, black beauty. It is an automatic, which might make it a better commuter than my 164s, and is supposed to have working AC. Time will tell.
So...we start another journey.
By the way, the trucker that was supposed to haul it refused. Couldn't properly attach to it. And, I wouldn't let him attach to the suspension. I had to go back with one of our trailers, and it barely fit. The rear tow hook attachment points are laughably inadequate. I now know why these poor things get tow hooks thrown over the suspension pieces. I actually attached the hold down strap to the muffler hanger, and gingerly attached another to the official hold down attachment...the one that wasn't already split. I'll have to faceplate some metal to the official hold down points. But, let's get it roadworthy first.
Not sure what the issue is. There are two stout hook holes in front to pull car into trailer. Once on then use wheel straps to secure it. Rear tow attach is light I agree but front is stout
"abysmal" for what? For cripes sake all that rear hook is for is to winch the thing up onto a trailer or keep the back end down if some dufus goes zero G over a whoo-de-doo. I mean it's not supposed to be a Jate ring for a helo extraction.
I think all the right rear non-tow hook was for was the factory assembly line trail lanyard. There are two more mini hooks in center rear of trunk floor for trailer towing safety chains but not real strong either. Wheel strap harnesses with rear ward pulling chains to roll back bed are the way to strap down rear of a 164 and roll-back winch cables on front sub-frame tow hooks.
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I've driven truck, many friends drive truck. If the driver didn't feel it was in "ALL's" best interests safely securing the car to whatever he had for a trailer, without damaging anything, I respect that. This is assuming, it was a company not dedicated to hauling cars.
All cars shipped by sea have tie down locations. The cars are locked down so the suspension doesn't move. I know BMW used shipping blocks inserted into the coil springs to reduce the amount of force required to tie the vehicle down while at sea.
Now maybe these are removed upon import but I don't think so.
If the rear hook is only for assembly line purposes I can't imagine why they would put a removable cover over it. The looks may be deceiving, I would have never guessed the rear jack point was back on that same section if I hadn't read the manual. I think it's a stronger point than you might think just by looking at it.
Maybe the prior owner had a problem because the battery had 1.8 volts when I tested it.
For grins I stuck a little battery in, just to see if all the interior items worked. It wouldn't really start it without the additional jump from the charger. I'm not hearing a fuel pump hum at key on, which I can generally hear on the S.
Real diagnosis will start upon completion of a couple of items on the S, and the GTV.
I'd tell you when I want it up and running, but you know how well I do with those targets.
Unless somebody has jumpered the wiring. I bought Sara's 164B years ago and somebody had run a new hot when key on wire all the way from that metal clip in fuse panel for rear cigar lighter. They went under the rug and seats and into the trunk directly to fuel pump wiring connector.
There wasn't anything wrong with the fuel pump relay or system wiring that I could find.
If your S fuel pump runs when the key is turned on somebody has jumpered fuel pump (FP) relay wiring.
If you need to check fuel pressure or fuel flow you can remove FP relay on top radiator support and jumper pin sockets 30 and 87 pink and pink-wires to make LS pump run with key on and motor not running.
Picked up a set of the Technical Bulletins for the car from a seller here. Also picked up a set of uncracked fog lamps...all the way from Oz.
But, best of all...picked up a new battery and after a couple of cranks it coughed. A couple more and it fired and settled into an idle!!!
Which was followed with the overwhelming smell of fuel. So shut it down. Jumped out and looked under the hood and observed a pinhole leak in the fuel line. I'll stop by and get some fuel injection fuel line tomorrow.
If it's not raining tomorrow, I might get a chance to see if it'll drive around. I'm thrilled. :grin2:
Finally got around to seeing if the car would drive.
And yes it does!
Not for a long drive (its registration has expired), just far enough to see if it shifted properly and to find out the quality of the brakes.
Brakes need work, shifts fine, and the power steering doesn't work. On the good side, climate control is working great.
I washed it, first time in quite a while. Of course it would no longer start. And, the sunroof leaked all over...in my lap and running down the A pillars behind the trim. I hate sunroofs, everyone I've ever owned has eventually leaked at an inopportune moment.
Today, my son came over and helped me push it into the workshop...once on the lift it fired up. We had tried to fire it to get it in the workshop but no go. I'm anticipating some kind of gremlin related to water. With it on the lift we noticed a missing bolt and nut on the central exhaust flange, and leaking fluid...it's either the reason the power steering doesn't work, or automatic transmission fluid. It also appears to have an oil leak.
I want to get it smogged, so tomorrow I'll change the oil. Then pull a front plug and see how long it's been since they've been changed. Given what a pain it looks like to change the rears, I'm not certain that I should rely on the front plugs' condition to correlate to the back.
Most of the suspension bushings reflect the age and mileage of the car. I'll have to start a program to replace them.
All in all a good day. The LS is not nearly as much of a play thing as the '91S. I attribute it to the difference between an auto and a manual transmission. Its far more stately and sedate. I'll have to see what I can do about that.
Rear plugs aren't that hard. On the rear set, I use a 6" and 3" extension with a flex head ratchet and good spark plug socket. I use the finger tips cut off old rubber gloves to put all the extension/socket joints together so nothing comes apart accidentally. Disconnect the plug from the IAC. You may or may not have to remove a hose to get #1 or #2 out. I usually only have too remove the plug.
Yup, the 12V is no problem at all, don't have to remove a thing. There is room to get to the rear and remove them.
The 24V is another matter. The rear plugs is why I use the NGK Iridiums, as they last much monger without having to be removed and checked/cleaned/replaced.
Looks like they really dressed up the museum, as the lobby arrangement is very different now, judging by the pictures.
reading your sunroof leaky story reminds me of the biggest gripe I have about mine. No sunroof but if the car is rained on and I pull out without wiping it off - the roof - and, having the window down, I get soaked. Sounds like you're making progress overall with the car. Enjoying the thread(s). Ciao, chris
Plugs not that hard to pull especially with all the coil pack practice I've had!! I think I can access rear plugs in 25 minutes tops. Get used to 24v car, lots of fiddly items and the car eats ANY dropped washers/bolts etc. just make sure if you can't find it that it's not around the timing belt if you are in that area.
Easy Peessy but some caveats on access to rear 24v coils/plugs
Just be sure you use good fitting metric allen wrench socket tip to remove coil hold down screws and anti seize on threads when reinstalling.
Pay close attention to brake booster bango fitting set up and copper washers in intake plenum banjo fittings and if this 24v is 95 with EGR valve watch out for how EGR valve gasket can fall out when removing bolts. If you end up having to take EGR plumbing tube loose from rear exhaust manifold banjo fitting more sealing washers to fall out.
You need to clean out/blow out all four sun roof drains and your problem should subside.
You will probably have to blow through them backwards with compressed air.
Two fronts inside behind false firewall and two rears drain out behind rear wheel wells at bottom of quarter panels.
Two front drain holes in front corners of of sun roof pan and tubing goes down inside A-pillars. Rear drain holes in rear of sun roof panel and tubing goes down C-pillars in rear.
Talking to the boss (wife) tonight. I need to get another spare car together (Van is at 410K and really wants to lie down and rest...permanently) . The LS seems closest to a drive-able, air conditioned choice. However, it pees power steering fluid faster than I can pour it in. Absent an obvious problem with the lines or reservoir, have any of you used a vendor for a rebuilt rack that you're happy with?
I talked to a couple of shops about doing the job, but everyone has given me the cold shoulder. I'll look through Steve's tips to see if there is one that walks me through this procedure. Given that the shops are looking at me cross-eyed, it must be a real winner.
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