Forget it. The easiest way to replace a flywheel is to leave the engine in the car and pull the transmission. This leaves plenty of working room to address flywheel issues, and is less troublesome than pulling the engine, or engine and transmission. Just my opinion.

 

Thanks, Gordon. That is what I intended to do, but was warned about the difficulty of putting the transmission back in. Some other threads said it was easier to pull both engine and transmission, but that seems like a bigger production, plus I'd have to beg/borrow/steal an engine crane.
Thanks again!

 

I agree with Gordon - drop the transmission. I find that the trickiest job is getting the two bolts in at the top of the bellhousing.

You need to have the engine up at the front and low at the back when you put the gearbox in. A transmission jack will make life easier. Put the box in gear and slowly turn the output yoke as you push the input shaft into the clutch plate until you feel the splines engage.

 

You will find useful: Transmission scissor jack #39178-OVGA from Harbor Freight Tools (nfi), clutch driven disk centering tool, 3' x 3/8" drive extension, wobble or swivel attachment with 15mm socket for one fastener only but, boy does it help! I was fortunate to be able to borrow the jack but it's usually available 'on sale' for about $55.00. While at it, you should consider replacing the seals at the rear of the crank and both on the transmission.

 

I second the recommendation for the Harbor Freight transmission jack; I used one this year and it made the process very easy. At age 71, I barely have the upper body strength to lay under the car, rest the transmission on my chest, lift it into place, and secure a bolt to assure the weight doesn't hang on the input shaft.

 

Thank you, gents! I'm off to gather some tools. I've got the seals on order...figured while I'm in there I may as well do everything I can. While I'm in there, how big of a deal is it to replace the clutch?

 

You have to remove the clutch to remove the flywheel.

 

I agree the transmission pull is the easiest way.

Here is my thread dealing with my flywheel and transmission.
http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/spider-1966-up/122124-steel-vs-aluminum-flywheel-weight.html

You pull the exhaust, starter, driveshaft and transmission. You need to pull the clutch and pressure plate to get at the flywheel.

Here is an image of the bolt holes for the transmission. It can be confusing, but this photo should help.

Have fun!

 

Don't forget to use a shoulder bolt in the center starter bolt whole. If you don't have one now, could be the root cause of the starter failures.

 

Thanks for all the great info, particularly the photo, so well labeled! This is looking to be a big job, removing the exhuast, drive shaft, tranny, clutch...just for laughs, I think I'll make sure that shoulder bolt made it to that middle mounting hole. I did once make that mistake, and indeed horrendous noise was the result. But, I'm pretty sure I've got that right, particularly since this last starter worked great from day one, and is now 6 or so months later, before this current episode of clanging and banging. But, it would be great if I had just made a stupid mistake, and moving the shoulder bolt fixed everything...I'll let you all know. I can handle being humbled!
Thanks again...keep it coming...

Scott

 

And, if my eyes do not deceive me, the photo in post #9 shows the transmission resting upon the aforementioned scissor jack.

 

That would be correct.

That Harbor Freight item was a great help. I did all of the work by myself. That tool saved my life, literally! If I had to lift the transmission with a jack back into position, I would have been killed by it slipping off and crushing my skull. As it was, the transmission tried to kill me twice. But the jack strap kept that lawless thing in order. I had to install the transmission twice because I found a cracked part while bleeding the clutch. The second install only took 5 minutes after I figured out how to use that trans jack!

It was cheap and useful. I wish it was hydraulic though! Ha ha ha. It takes a bunch of turns to lift.

 

DO NOT use the studs to brace the flywheel whilst removing the clutch bolts. AMHIK.

 

There are special tools to stop the flywheel from spinning while loosening and tightening the flywheel and pressure plate. I was in a hurry and improvised. It worked for me. But your mileage may vary. I could see if you bent one of the engine block studs it would be a real pain to repair. The problem is, those special tools also use the studs or a bolt in the block. Spread the torque around as evenly as possible and use liquid wrench to help things along.

 

I use a 6mm allen key through one of the top transmission mount holes on the engine. Let the tail drop onto the teeth of the flywheel and it'll lock it solid. No special tools required!

I can't see how bending the gearbox mounting studs would be difficult to repair either,

1. You can buy them new

2. They come out really easily. I take them out and put them back in all the time!

 

If you really, really had to for lack of any other means, you could remove #4 spark plug, and with the engine on the compression stroke for that cylinder, (you know, so both valves are fully closed), run a length of cloth clothesline down into the cylinder then roll the engine til the clothesline wadded up between the combustion chamber and piston crown.

 

Flywheel lock

Here is the VW tool that works. It costs $8.95.

Universal Flywheel Lock Chirco Performance & Restoration

 

Contact Don Brubaker, Illinois local chapter AROC past president for an original Alfa tool. 847-550-8915.

 

Wow! Save this thread, if only for the flywheel hold data. alfabb.com is great.

 

the starter you need is the smaller one for 1972-1974 and the 90-on (motronic)
the best one is the new type use on the 90-on motronic 0 001 108 0011 but almost imposable to find.
the 0 001 108 024 is for 1975-1989
I got this one and had a custom 10 tooth bendex put on and it works great.


the old type starter for 72-74 is .7Kw starter 000 121 1987
The ring gear on the flywheel had 130 teeth


the 75-89 use 131 teeth as well as a slightly larger (+1 cm) diameter

 

the best one is the new type use on the 90-on motronic 0 001 108 0011 but almost imposable to find.

Maybe over there but I've got a big pile of them on the shelf here! The starter is the same as the one in the 75 Twinspark. We use them because they have a gear reduction mechanism and a big chesty motor in them so they'll swing a high compression engine over nicely. Paradoxically they're actually lighter than the old style Bosch starter fitted to the Spider/GTV so it's "Win" in every direction.

We've also got them in 8 tooth for smaller engines.

 

I got a tip from a friend of who I should have called before I pulled my trans to replace the throw out bearing. Unbolt the exhaust at the back of the car so it rests on the rear axle. It's enough weight to lift the front of the motor so you can clear the lip on the firewall with the bellhousing. Check your front,and rear transmission seals. You've got it out. You don't want to have to do it again to replace a $6 part.

 

Once again, thanks to all for all the great information. I bought the transmission lift at Harbor (I've never been in a Harbor store...this discovery is going to cost me big time; what a great man tool store!). Parts are in the UPS delivery system, and should arrive in time for the weekend. Sadly, my bride will be out of town...it will just be me, my tools and my spider; does it get any better than that? (Probably not for me!!!). I have to admit, I feel a bit like a nervous groom, not totally sure what to expect when I remove the tranny from that curvaceous bell housing...man, should I film the operation for youporn?
(yeah, guys, pretend you don't know!)

 

it will just be me, my tools and my spider...

Work safely. Make sure the care is safely supported on jack stands.

And don't forget what Frank told you in reply #10 - you must use the proper shouldered bolt when installing the starter motor. That bolt positions the starter motor in the correct position relative to the flywheel.

 

You'll think it's sexy like that, right up until you discover what a fat heavy pig she can be while humping her out the side or toting her to the bench for cleanup while she's out. (being the dirty girl that she most likely is)

At least you got a jack and likely won't know just how heavy she can get while trying to press her off your chest.

Still, you will sweat.

 

Nothing wrong with my transmission but i think I'm going out to have a go at the old girl.
I think I'll take a tub of axle grease and turn the lights down real low.

Thanks Darren,

 

...does it get any better than that?...

No, it doesn't. Do take extra care undoing the drive shaft coupling nuts and bolts as they, like the starter shoulder bolt are not hardware store items though replacements can be sourced from BB members and aftermarket suppliers such as IAP, etc.
Guys with tools working on cars; male bonding. Have a good time!

 

Thanks for the reminder about the shoulder bolt...that's the first order of business, to make sure I installed it in the correct place last time! That would make for so much simpler a repair, to forget all this flywheel/clutch/etc., etc., and to simply place the shoulder bolt in the correct spot. Much humiliation, but a lot less work. I'm curious, though...how does that shoulder bolt make a difference (as I know it does!)?

 

It actually locates the starter correctly. I guess that Alfa figured it would be easier to install the starter if the hole was oversize, and then locate it accurately by a shouldered bolt. If the bolt holes were exactly right for threaded bolts, you'd have a tough time getting the bolts in without buggering the threads.

 

...how does that shoulder bolt make a difference?

It has an oversized shank which mates with close tolerance holes in both the starter and the bellhousing to provide proper alignment between the starter and the ring gear. The drive shaft coupling bolts are also close tolerance with a M9x1 (IIRC) thread.

 

Forget ye not the starter shim plate whilst farting around with the starter install.