the local autoparts stores have the adhesive in stock around here, the package has the instructions for removing the old glue and putting on the new.
cliff

 

I've had good luck with single-edge razors for getting the old adhesive off.

This thread is worth reading through:

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/spider-1966-up/12221-vent-window-latch-glue.html

 

Thanks for all of the info. I will stop and get the rear view mirror stuff tonight.

 

This is not an unusual occurence I have heard. I didn't even realize mine ever had them as they where gone when I bought my 83 Spider lol....

 

Easiest way is to go to your local AutoGlass shop. For $5, while you wait the will clean prep and attach the latch, using professional stuff.

TTFN Elio

 

I JUST glued mine on 30 mins ago (for the 3rd or 4th time!!!) with rear view mirror glue and 4 tiny dollops of crazy glue (in each corner).
I have tried all kinds of glue and cements, we'll see, the RV mirror glue held for about a day last time.
It's a PITA!

 

My latch has been sitting in the glove box for about 20 years after a couple of failed review mirror glue tries. Elio - I may try your approach thanks

 

I kid you not....
The Auto Glass shop is the way to go, they have "fresh" professional adhesives as well as a liquid to pre treat the surfaces after they clean off the old "glue".
Though the vent latch will "set" almost immediately, since there is an awful lot of pull on it to close the vent I would advise letting it set for 48 hours of so before fully stressing it.
You can't lose...if it doesn't stick, they will redo it! LOL

TTFN Elio

 

Like Elio said, if you have access to a pro shop, definitely let them do it. If not, get a rear view mirror kit, and it will have the instructions. Just two words of caution: 1) When using cleaners and adhesives, make sure you don't get any on the door panel, and watch fro drips and runs as the stuff will run. 2) The instructions will tell you to use ONE drop. Don't second guess them, and avoid the temptation of using more or additional stuff (unless you want the handle to fall off, so you can try this again...)

Best regards,

 

I pulled mine off yesterday... I actually pulled off a good deal of glass with the handle and the outside piece fell off on the road. I could try to glue it back but I'm afraid the glass would eventually crack... Has anyone replaced these windows/hardware?

 

Unfortunately, you will need to replace the vent window itself... It's a cumbersome job, but take your time and you will get through it.

Best regards,

 

Both of mine are off as well. At a recent Road America event I saw four spiders of various years, only one of which had the vent locks. It is important though, because on my '87 you can open the door with the interior handle by reaching through the vent, even if it's locked. I've tried NAPAs rear view mirror adhesive as well as a professional shop that used a special light to bond the glue, but they fell off again in the course of a year. However, due to the positive response from others who have taken it to body shops I believe I will give it another try in the spring..

-Spencer

 

...on my '87 you can open the door with the interior handle by reaching through the vent, even if it's locked.

And there are many who will argue that locking the doors is just inviting the nefarious types to slash the convertible top...

 

Yup, even if there's nothing worth taking visible, just to show you who's boss.

I'm currently trying to find a suitable shop that has the capacity to drill through the safety glass of the wing windows (and pay me for a new one should they wreck mine) so that I can drill-n-tap the handle base for a small machine screw a'la them older cars and trucks that had a simular setup with a chrome washer and rubber grommet on the outside.

Pretty sure that with such a modification along with gluing the latch in the conventional fashion, the things will never come off again unless one wanted it to and used tools in the process, and in fact would allow one to actually pull the wing shut with the handle as opposed to the current method of rolling down the main window to allow pressing the wing shut from the outside for fear of reefing the latch off for the umpteenth time.

 

... and in fact would allow one to actually pull the wing shut with the handle as opposed to the current method of rolling down the main window to allow pressing the wing shut from the outside for fear of reefing the latch off for the umpteenth time.

You do all that? Why not just press the inside bottom front corner of the vent window? My vent windows open and close nicely, but I also make a point of opening and closing them regulalry, and keeping them latch-closed throughout the winter. They are nice and tight, and even without the latch being closed they stay against the gasket, and I don't get any wind noise...

Best regards,

 

I like the more expansive view provided by not gluing them on AGAIN. Also leave the doors unlocked with the windows partly down unless it's raining to avoid the slashed top/broken window fun.

 

I'm with Enrique here. Learned my lesson many years ago the hard way with my first car, an old Volvo 142 with glued vent windows as well as glued spring loaded, swing out rear windows. The glue on my Swedish vent windows let loose and were trouble forever. My friends 142 lost it's rear side window assembly, the entire window, when the glue let go as he was driving. Imagine stopping to go pick up your rear side window by the side of the road. From that point on I never opened the rear windows. By the early 70's Volvo had learned that the screw through was better than glue. I keep my 87 Spider vent windows closed but not locked, so there is no stress on them. I open/close them by pushing the glass. It is a PITA to try to get everything glued back should the glue fail, so the longer you can keep it as it left the factory, the better.

 

Home application that worked

I had to try a few glues and preps until I succeeded, but what finally worked was, scraping old adhesive residue with a flat edge razor (as stated earlier) then wiping both glass and latch thoroughly with Goof Off, followed by a SINGLE DROP of loctite glass glue (see pic) on the latch surface then mate to glass fast in unlatched position--hold for a minute or so. I did not touch it for a week thereafter. After so many failures, I was surprised that it held, but it's solid under what feels like a lot of pressure and manipulation.

 

AHA! That's the trick!

'Dishwasher safe' also means 'water proof' to some degree or another. Or am I the only one who's occasionally had water get on/around the latch?

 

I used Dynagrip, worked OK and it still on, also the window has a lot of pressure as the 1/4 window has a new rubber seal.

Some advise, before you remove the old glue with a new very sharp scraper, draw or use some tape to mark the opposite side of the window the exact position of the existing glue, so that when you remove the glue you know exactly where to position the handle. Also have the handle in the open position and make sure you glue it to the window in the open position.

Both my handle are new and only had the old glue as a guide, hence all the markings on the windows.

 

The black Monster duct tape works really well and is realatively cheap.