More Shock Installation

I then pulled out the shocks from inside the car.

Disasembled them by pulling the rubber cover off of the top.

And removing the nuts holding the shock top on ( both 17mm)

I then used the hardware that came with the KYB's and reassembled the shock top onto the KYB, was worried that it might not fit , but no problems.

Getting the new shocks in is a lttle challenging,because they are gas shocks and expand to their full extension once you cut the shipping tape, so here are a couple of tips.

1. You have to loosen your top to get more clearance,

More to follow

 

The rest of rear shock instal

Tip number 2 is as the result of the shock being at full extension once you get it in the car. Note how tall it is, but make sure you have the shock shaft through the hole in the trailing arm below.

Tip 2 have someone lift the rear of the car untill you can get the bolts started

You'll laugh ( or cry) when you see what I did. Hey I was alone doing this job!!

Ok Next tighten everything on top of the shock down. Then install bushing and lock nuts under/in trailing arm.

And drive.

 

man your car is clean, underneath, suspenion....like the chair thing..

 

Great write-up and photos! Does that same KYB part# fit an '88 Spider do you know? Rock Auto doesn't show Alfa applications. What's the part# for the front? Thanks!

 

Added this thread to sticky FAQ.

@ dhill:

Yes, the same p# will fit an 88

 

KYB Front shocks part# KG4616. Shocks will fit Spider and GTV, 72 on and Sedan 72 to 74.

Great write up!

Additional tip: I used Duct Tape to hold the shocks compressed a couple of inches, left a tab for its easy removal after installation.

Best regards, Elio

 

Additional tip: I used Duct Tape to hold the shocks compressed a couple of inches, left a tab for its easy removal after installation.

Best regards, Elio

Elio
Good tip. If I hadn't been using wheel ramps, and had jacked the car up, or put it on Jack stands, there may have been more clearance, but if not I would have had to come up with something else (like your idea). As it was I was stumped until I leaned into the trunk, and noticed the car sag down. I then found I could lift the car to the point where I could have started the bolts ( if I had an extra arm).

 

Well documented!

 

Gadwhite,

Now that you are some years into the KYB shocks would you recommend them? I am about to swap out all four originals on an S3 Spyder and these appear to be really attractively priced! Rock Auto still has the same part numbers and I would hope that they refer to the same shocks.

 

so far so good



So far so good. Handling fine, Ride fine

 

If the threaded portion is open could you just use a cupla longer bolts tp pull that interior mount down and secure it? A set of KYB's is on my todo list for the 87 Quad.

 

Did you put on all 4 KYB's #KG5517 or just the rear shocks. Since my records show #KG4616 as the KYB's for the front.

 

Front and rear are very different. The duct tape trick is very good and does the trick.

 

Thank you gadwhite!

Using your notes as a guide I replaced my 1974 Spider's rear shocks with Koni Classic Reds (Part 80 1781).

A few notes based on my experience today:

• I found it easier to work after removing the rear wheels, as it gave better access to hold the shock absorber while loosening/tightening the nuts under the trailing arm.
• Tip: Use a strap wrench to hold a Koni while loosening/tightening the nuts under the trailing arm. (Did use a vise grip to assist in the removal of the other SPICA shock absorber. Mismatched rear shock absorbers courtesy of a previous owner.)
• Tip: Use a twist tie or rubber band to temporarily hold the washer and bushing on the bottom of the shock absorber during insertion; it can be easily removed with needle nose pliers prior to installing the remaining components under the trailing arm.

 

Yes, great post. I used it to change mine out. Thanks Gadwhite.

One thing I would add is that I did not have a tall stool to lift the rear of the car, so I used my floor jack, few blocks of wood (car was alreay on jackstands so I need height) and lifted by the shipping tie down found by the muffler.

Thanks again,

Vin

 

I did not have a tall stool to lift the rear of the car, so I used my floor jack, few blocks of wood (car was alreay on jackstands so I need height) and lifted by the shipping tie down found by the muffler.

Vin:

Glad it all worked out. But I have to say that your lift point makes me nervous. Yes, I know the differential was on stands and the car's rear springs were supporting some of the body weight. Still, I don't think the under-floor trunk sheetmetal is very strong. Frankly, nothing behind the axle is very strong.

I'd recommend lifting from the jack points. Yes, more force will be needed, but it's a stronger part of the body-frame.

 

1983 Spider Rear Shock Orientation

On KYB rear shocks does the bellows go up or down or does it matter?????

 

I just got done replacing the rear shocks. I did the front ones last month. Went for a test drive. What a huge difference! I got the KYB gas shocks from IAP. It sits a bit higher now. And it fixed my twisted trunk look. The top passenger side corner was sticking up. My car had the original 27 year old shocks.

With the factory manual and the directions/tips here, I got it done with no issues. I didn't even have to jack up the back. It was close enough to get the bolts started. I hope that was a good thing and not something else wrong.

This thread was extremely helpful!

 

I found that to get the bottom two nuts off the old shocks required two wrenches - but one wrench needed to be fairly thin - the best thing was to sacrifice a 17mm wrench on the bench grinder. Grind it down to about 2/3rds thickness then immediately quench it in water.

 

This was a very helpful thread when I just replaced my rear shocks. Many thanks to the OP. Some comments:

1 - If you use low pressure shocks like Konis, there is no need to lift the rear of the vehicle. High pressure shocks like KYB or Bilstiens need the extra clearance and the body lift.

2 - The bottom bushing from the old shocks fell off when I was removing them. It was easy to fish out with with a wire clothes hangar.

3 - Painters tape on the bottom bushing and washer worked great.

The car rides much better now with new shocks.

 

I'm having issues removing the shock from the trailing arm- both the nuts on mine are 17mm and aligned. No stopping the shaft from turning with vice grips; it's polished and turns freely in the vice grips. Not cool...

 

I had to use 2 vice grips for it to stop turning. And very tight. I didn't care much since I was throwing the old shocks away afterwards.

 

Got it; I DID have a 19mm nut. I held it in place with a wrench in the trailing arm channel, and used my air tool zip the 17mm free.

 

Can you use the same technique (unbolting the shocks and pulling them out through the trunk) on a Giulia?

Cheers,
AA

 

OMG...That was over 2 years ago >

 

Just to say cracking thread and really helped me in changing my rear shocks....

 

Always use anti seize on the. Threads

 

Especially the bottom ones..:wink2:

 

Laissez les bons temps rouler ! What started out as a simple trailing arm bushing install has spiraled out of control.

new trailing arms, new bushings, new shocks, new springs.

+1 KUDO's on this thread for the tips/tricks.

Originally, I was just going to be cheap and only replace rear bushes, then I realized the trailing arms looked like crap and I didn't want to fight the bushing removal. Then, I found the bottom shock nuts to be frozen like a deck cleat on the Titanic. Then.... I bought more tools. Because more tools always = more fun.

Shocks are loose now and will be pulled out still attached to the old trailing arms which I'll throw in the dumpster. New bushings are already pressed into new trailing arms and waiting patiently on the bench for other stuff to arrive next week. I think it'll be a breeze to install. Famous last words.

 

Who's 'yer daddy now?