Alfa Romeo Forums banner
101 - 120 of 156 Posts
Thanks for the tips. I've already hit them with PB Blaster and will again. The problem is that I am not the first one in there and found a few missing studs. I'm going to cut the old top off, probably Tuesday, and get a good look inside to make sure that sheet metal screws will be ok.
 
Thanks for the tips. I've already hit them with PB Blaster and will again. The problem is that I am not the first one in there and found a few missing studs. I'm going to cut the old top off, probably Tuesday, and get a good look inside to make sure that sheet metal screws will be ok.
I do not recommend sheet metal screws. They'll loosen and pull out. Studs should be replaced with rivet nuts/studs. They're cheap and easy to install.

I think the installation tool is about $35, but I have one you can borrow.

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/spider-1966-up/2204-convertible-top-installation-issues-2.html
 
Over tightening top studs = dimples

This a heads-up for top installers to NOT overtighten the 22 rear stud nuts. Overtightening will create a "dimple(s)" in the outer panel. Don't ask me how i know.
I saw your post after it was too late! My outer panel (the flat panel between the chrome edging the top and the top of the trunk lid) has dimples in it. Con Brio, what is the fix for this? My top installer says he hand-tightened the rear studs, and I watched him untighten them by hand. Granted, he is a lifelong upholstery person, so he has freakishly strong hands, but still. Could it be tension from a too-short top, as opposed to overtightening the bolts? Thanks.
 
I had several broken of the 22 and had to replace. I orderd a bag of 5mm flat headed pan screws from mcmastercar.com and tacked them on with my mig. Just grind down the nub of the old stud and the flat head sits nice flat and gives you a good area to tack to. The top, thickness of the bracket, washers, and strip of rubber are more than enough to put everything above the end of the treads of the pan heads and will allow everything to chinch down tight.

1 92461A200 1 Pack Class 8 Steel Nylon-insert Hex Flange Locknut, Znc-pltd, M5 Size, .8mm Pitch, 8mm W, 7.1mm H
2 91100A140 1 Pack Metric Znc-plated Steel Large-dia Flat Washer, M5 Screw Size, 15mm Od, 1mm-1.4mm Thick
3 91420A328 1 Pack Metric Flat Head Phillips Machine Screw, Zinc-plated Stl, M5 Size, 20mm Length, .8mm Pitch
 
I'm afraid that once the panel is 'dimpled", the only recourse is a little body filler and fresh paint. Sorry. I'm fairly certain that I saw the dimples before the top installation was completed, so mine didn't result from a tight top, but, thinking about it, maybe that could happen. Anyone else seen this??
 
I'm absolutely convinced that available tops - and I mean quality ones - are at least an inch too short.

I'm seriously thinking of having the next Series 2 to 4 top made. I'll have the shop remove the older- pre-stretched - top and use it for the pattern - making sure the top mechanism isn't adjusted all the the way to the rear and up.
 
you might be on to something there. The last top I bought, top quality, professionally installed and it was hard as heck to close. Although once it sat in the summer sun it got eaiser but it still had a wrinkle on the side which was because the quarter panel was to long.
 
[Biba] might be on to something there. The last top I bought, top quality, professionally installed and it was hard as heck to close. Although once it sat in the summer sun it got eaiser but it still had a wrinkle on the side which was because the quarter panel was to long.
This is a Robbins top, the back window had some sort of artifact in it and on top of that, a wave in the window, as if it were too wide. they're replacing under warranty. Does the list think a too-tight top could bend the rear deck panel? I can't really see how it goes together up under there. Thanks!
 
I know for sure that a too tight - or more accurately - a too short top can ripple the rear steel panel behind the window. Even to the point where you can pick out where every stud/nut is located on the mounting bracket.

It is my understanding that Robbins has at least some shops that can make up a custom top. It takes a day longer and costs more, but would be money and time well spent.
 
I know for sure that a too tight - or more accurately - a too short top can ripple the rear steel panel behind the window. Even to the point where you can pick out where every stud/nut is located on the mounting bracket.

It is my understanding that Robbins has at least some shops that can make up a custom top. It takes a day longer and costs more, but would be money and time well spent.
Biba, thank you! Any suggestions on how much longer the top needs to be? Or how to measure to see how much longer it needs to be? I am sure my original top (literally, the original top on a 1992) is long gone.
 
I'd say the top manufacturers should add two inches at the end and rear sides - and not die-cut holes. This then gives you extra material with which to pull.

I'm trying to figure out why one can't start from the front...but going on the basis you're starting from the rear, I'd hook the top over the top's header first, have the latches installed and latch. Previously you should adjust the top mechanism down and forward - along with carefully finding the center point of the rear edge (best to use a thin white marker like a 'dress maker's' chalk). Then pull hard, mark the two center studs (by feel), make a small cut for each, and attach. Then check to see if the front has pulled back and/or the top feels really loose in the middle. If it seems reasonably tight, then do the same with all of the other studs.

Once that is completed and the front header and seal is glued in, then pull the top mechanism back and up to tighten the top. Worst scenario is if it won't tighten enough or loosens up over time, you then need to go back and pull the rear down farther.

But that is all pie in the sky since all tops come too short and with the rear holes cut in.

Now, someone tell me how to install that miserable top material, which folds around the (B-pillar's) metal parts, so that it all comes out perfect in the end - without taking a day to do each side.
 
One of the most visible parts of the install is the bead at the front of the windshield. Here's a few tricks that helped me:

Do a test fit using some spring clamps, without any glue. Carefully mark the center and a few other spots with a chalk or wax crayon. that'll help keep it centered and evenly stretched when you get to the glue phase.

After the glue is dry - don't wait a day, but do wait an hour - use a few strips of WAX paper from the kitchen. The glue won't stick, and the paper will not harm the connection. Put the top on and clamp just at the outer ends, being sure to align the chalk marks. Starting in the center, pull the bead down, then pull out the strips and press the top in place.

OBTW - I use quart and half-gallon freezer bags for all parts; have one handy as you undo any fastener. Marker writes on it and there is plenty of room to identify where they go. Use lots of bags, they are cheap.

Robert
 
Robert, it is virtually impossible to close the top even when it is completely glued down, assuming the top is attached in the rear and the stud's nuts are somewhat loose so that the fabric can stretch.

Yeah, one needs to keep parts sorted. I use small closeable sandwich bags for small parts and use an assortment of plastic bags depending on the part's size. Then it all goes into a marked banker's box.
 
GW, I can't thank you enough for starting this thread. I've been putting off the top on my 74 Spider that I basically took apart and put back together, everything:) except the top. I did however clean and paint the frame and had new covering put on the front bow by a shop but the 400 for the install just seemed expensive. Thanks to your thread I decided to tackle it myself. Let's just say the 400 doesn't sound expensive to me now:) I read the posts several times and after finding an EZ on top with padded sides and Hartz cloth on ebay for 320 and free shipping I dove in yesterday. Still waiting on the channel for the front weatherstrip but what the heck I can do that later. The new weatherstrip will not fit the channels they sell now so I was thinking about shaving some off the curve so there will be some hope of sliding it in. They've been on backorder since August. But with the pdf instructions and this thread I have it on now and it is tight as a drum and the front bead is angled down although one side a smigen more than the other but you have to be looking for it to see it. Not being a summer day the top would not close as has been mentioned. My solution was to hook a comealong to the side of the frame at the front bow. Don't pull on the bow the results are as bad as crossing the streams:) but I got it back straight. By pulling the top forward with the comealong it got to where I could latch it and it's staying that way until summer! But boy can you thump it. It is nice and tight with no wrinkles and a good fit. Much better than the one I paid to have installed on my 77. The side was to long on that one and if you pulled it forward the window would be past the padding and onto the top. Not sure who made that one. The EZ on did have the holes punched which really made much eaiser. Anyway, thanks again, I wouldn't have had the guts to try it without this thread.
 
  • Like
Reactions: gadwhite
Just attached the the front to the front top bow on mine. I made certain the front edge bead turned under a bit. The bead does meet the top of the windshield. But the front edge looks uneven! :(
 
Thanks for the great Thread, looking at having to do this once the weather warms up a bit and this is going to be very helpful!
I know this is an old thread but for anyone reading this I'm interested in opinions regarding the cost benefits of spending more on a replacement top, Stayfast vs. German Canvas or any other relevant features i should be looking for. Thanks
 
101 - 120 of 156 Posts