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Convertible Top Installation project

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Discussion starter · #41 ·
Phase 3 installation windshield weather strip

Ok now for the Weather strip above the windshield. I used liberal amounts of Armourall on the bottom of the strip where it feeds into the track and this helped. Note that the side of the weather strip with the bead goes against the roof, and the smaller side with the flap will go against the top of the windshield. I was able to feed a fair amount of the strip into the track from one side, but after the half way mark it became a push pull affair, so patience is required.

At the end I was going from one side of the car to the other alternately pushing and pulling about a 1/4 inch at a time.

PUSH

PULL

In the end you can tell when your done, by the fact that the flap with the T-bolt hole lines up with the bolt hole on the front bow.( Hope this is clear)
 
Discussion starter · #42 · (Edited)
Phase 3 Installation Back retaining strips

Next we install the back retaining strips to hold the top to the back of the car, but do NOT Do the final tightening yet. First I cleaned off the Vinyl strips. These go between the inside of the top and the retainer, and hang over the rain gutter into the car.

Use Antiseize on the bolts

Start with the short side strips and note that the small screw hole goes towards the front of the car. Push the holes in the top over the bolts, line up the vinyl strip with the holes, and press it onto the bolts, then push the retaining strip over it and attach with the washers and bolts( 8 mm).

Next install the long back strip. Again make sure the top's holes are over the bolts, and then the vinyl strip by pushing it over the bolts. This took me a while to do, and get it right, then position the long strip. Attach at the ends first, loosely, as you will find this gives you the play you need to get it to line up with the rest of the bolts.

Work your way out from the middle installing the washers and the bolts. do not fully tighten yet.
 
Discussion starter · #43 ·
Phase 3 Installation side flaps

This phase is a little tricky so I'm going to glue the first flap (the back one of two), then show you a dry run of what to do next. First use contact cement on the pillar and on the back flap, and wait for it to dry.

When dry press the back flap firmly over the a pillar. Use an awl or a knife to make holes for the rivets where the flap covers them.

Next did a dry run to correctly position the metal bar within the front fold. The bar goes against the padded edge then the flap is wrapped around it.

The goal here is that when glued and rivetted the metal bar pulls the padded flap firmly against the pillar.

Note that when we glue the bar in place you want the rivet holes to line up. I marked the bar with a sharpie to show me where to glue it.

I will show you how it is supposed to look in the next thread before I glue it.
 
Discussion starter · #44 ·
Phase 3 installation side flaps part 2

Here is how it is supposed to look when done.

brush glue onto one side of the the metal bars.

Then brush glue on to the inside edge of the front flap to the width of the metal bar.
Press into place and make your holes through the fabric for the rivets. fold the flap over the metal bar and roll it into position.

rivet into place. and repeat for the other side.
 
Discussion starter · #45 · (Edited)
Phase 3 installation glueing the bows to the roof

Next we fix the top to the bows, by gluing the flaps on the inside of the top to the metal bows.
For this part latch the top in place. I used contact cement so if your doing this be careful when gluing, cover the inside of the car for drips, do it out side to avoid drain bamage, and take your time when gluing, because it wont come off when you stick it!
These are the flaps I am talking about. I started with the middle bow (second from the back) , because this one has no movement with the top latched.


Put contact cement on the inside of the back flap and cover the bow it self with cement,and leave to dry for 15min.

When tacky dry carefully wrap the back flap around the bow, WITHOUT PULLING DOWN ON THE FLAP, as this will cause dips in the roof line. Press firmly into place by running your hand over the bow.


Next repeat for the front flap, and you should get something like this (or hopefully better).


NOTE: For the thin bow behind the main windshield bow, I opted to trim the material, because I could not figure out how to get a neat fit with so much flap.

Repeat for the other flaps and Bows.

Ok next onto the T-Bolts on each side of the windshield>
 
Discussion starter · #46 · (Edited)
Phase 3 Installation

Just finishing up the gluing and will post T-Bolt to windshield installation later today. Should finish this this weekend. Let me know what you guys(gals too) think and if I need to add anything, have made any errors, or if you want pictures of any special area. Got to polish up the top and toneau cover hold downs from the rear area before I install them over the carpet. Also if you guys rate or vote for the thread( and you think its any good) . I think it helps keep it around.
Gabriel
 
#47 ·
I am a fan of your post, I follow it every step because I am planning to do it some day.
I have two questions if you can answer them, what brand is your top and where did you buy it :)
Congratulations for the good job and thanks for sharing the experience
 
Discussion starter · #48 · (Edited)
Top question

Bernardo
The top came with the car, but the receipt, shows it came from M&T manufacturing in South Kingston RI http://www.mtmfg.com/index.shtml The top price shows as $215. ( do a search for Alfa Romeo) There is a brand name on the top I will have to check and get back to you on. All that being said I am very pleased with the fit and the quality. Should have pictures of the finished job tomorrow.
Gabriel
 
Discussion starter · #51 ·
Top Brand

gadwhite said:
Bernardo
The top came with the car, but the receipt, shows it came from M&T manufacturing in South Kingston RI http://www.mtmfg.com/index.shtml The top price shows as $215. ( do a search for Alfa Romeo) There is a brand name on the top I will have to check and get back to you on. All that being said I am very pleased with the fit and the quality. Should have pictures of the finished job tomorrow.
Gabriel
Click to expand...

Just an addendum to this. The top has a tag which says EZ-On Auto tops.
 
Discussion starter · #54 ·
Phase 3 installation T-Bolts

OK now I installed the t-bolts which hold the top padding against the front bow above the windshield. I measured and then after marking used a hole punch, instead of the recommended awl ($2.99 at a fabric store).

Here is the T-Bolt> I cleaned up the threads with some wd 40.

You feed the t-bolt under the flap and push the bolt through the hole through the rubber gasket, and into the frame. Then secure with the nut.
 
Discussion starter · #55 ·
Phase 3 carpet installation

Next we put the carpet back. I first tightened the bolts that hold the top to the back, finally one last time with the top latched.

I also cleaned up the hardware( as best as I could), that goes through the carpet above the package tray. The little twist things are for the toneau cover and the wider bar is for the top hold down straps( one missing still looking). The crome pieces are the caps for the tops of the doors.

First position the carpet inside.

I fed the screws through the carpet and into the gromets in the back metal strip (under the carpet) first, then pushed them through the vinyl strip on the back of my carpet.

Then lined everything up, have to lift the parcel shelfand put the bottom of the carpet under it. When it's lined up start along door strip, then go accross the top back of the carpet screwing it into the body
 
Discussion starter · #56 · (Edited)
dont worry folks

I havn't finished yet, but just had to focus on work for a little bit. Still to do
1. Run the guide wires through a-pillars
2. Take photos of finished job
 
#58 ·
Broken Rear Fastener Studs

Thanks for the really informative post on your top installation. It is going to help me a great deal in installing mine. I have started removong the old top (what there was left of it) and have so far been able to remove two of the 22 nuts succsessfully. Even after using PB Blaster on them I broke 3. I don't. think I am going to have any better luck with the rest. Does anyone have s solution to the broken studs? I was thinking of drilling thru and tapping, then installing new studs. Any bettersolutions out there? Puting in 20 studs may take all summer.
Conrad
 
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#59 ·
Discussion starter · #60 · (Edited)
Weather strip

Duke58 said:
Gadwhite-

Thanks for the great info.

Do you think I could replace only the windshield weather strip alone easily?

It looks like you simply pull it out and use lubricant to replace.

Duke
Click to expand...
Duke
Yes I just pulled mine back and soaked it in Armour All, then undid the t-bolts, and pulled it out. Getting the new one in was slow but just follow the post, and take your time.
Good luck
 
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