Yoga breathing

Definitely start from the front as you say. Thankfully a pretty simple exhaust
Pete

 

The tricky part I found was getting the exhaust tip centered and aligned in the rear body opening. The two joints on the exhaust system and how they are supported by the rubber hangers all interact with each other. Try not to tighten the joints all the way down until you have correct tailpipe exit. Sometimes it takes a little fiddling and adjusting.

 

The tail pipe hanger mount points may not align with the chassis mounting points. While the three bolt flange between the center and rear pipes allows centering of the tip to the body cut-out, the hanger needs to be in-line. If its offset too much, the canitlevered load will pull the pipe off center. AMHIK

 

I haven't found a repop exhaust that fits without some finagling. My advice is take to a a pro shop. It's the best $200 I ever spent on a car. Word of caution. There should be no stress on the fitment anywhere and especially at the headers unless you want cracked cast iron headers.. All of the down pipes from the headers are splayed just enough to require some torch tweaking.

 

Keeping tabs on this.
I've got a complete Abarth system I'm planning to install when the weather cools off in FL.
Working in a hot, humid garage s u c k s ...
Good luck with your project!

 

A ductless minisplt in the garagge changed my life.

 

Fwiw I installed hey system from classic Alfa on my 75 Nuova super 1300 and it fit flawlessly. The one I got for my 65 GT not so much

 

From my own experience, the rear portion which rises up and over drive shaft was interfering with sheet metal unibody parts, and the left rear axle,at certain speeds/rpms it was like someone playing the drums. The tunnel between gas tank and spare tire is also a potential noise knocker. I repaired by trimming 3/4” off the front pipe which inserts into the rear bell fitting. That combined with brand new rubber hangers made a huge difference.
Bottom line: measure / dry fit carefully before clamping front to back. Sounds like a fun job with brand new stuff

https://www.alfabb.com/threads/exhaust-rubber-hangers-1967-gtv.741228/

 

I replaced my rear rubber hanger with one of those universal urethane hangers with multiple holes.
It allowed me to get the tip of the stinger up closer to the rear valence and sit correctly in the small cut out.

 

That's interesting...I never would've thought to do that. I'll keep that in my backpocket if I need it.

 

$200 bucks? Maybe back in the '90's. Hahaha

 

Very easy to get around that, I’ve towed cars with no motors in them. The driver doesn’t want to lose the gig, they really couldn’t care less. Just give the driver a really nice tip.

 

I actually tried same but driver refused, so guess it just depends on who/where. Even tried to, uh, "pre tip" him so to speak. No dice. And AAA took a tow credit from me, not that it mattered that year. So that's how I found out they have rules.

This is a job I would punt to a shop if it became a PITA, but it's not a job I've done before and part of the point of this restro was to do all the things I hadn't done before. So in for a penny, in for a pound. Just figuring out all the fasteners is its own special project. I think I might post what it looks like as I go just for someone's future reference.

 

I actually had AAA take my running driver '73 to Boston 65 miles to swap out my SPICA.. one way.. no problem... i drove it home. I told them it ran but needed mechanical work.

 

In my experience with my 73 GTV, I've had to use washers to act as shims so that the rubber hangers fit without stress or strain when attached to the exhaust. It really isn't a difficult process ( provided the system components are made correctly ) it just takes some patience. Good luck.

 

Do you have a hoist? I made mine using jack stands and rolling around on a creeper ... was not fun but I was also in a rush.

When we finally buy our next property I will redo some of it. The first thing I am going to do is add a slip joint after the first muffler. Currently mine is all one piece until the join above the rear axle. This is okay but is hard to know how much stress is on the cast iron manifold and first mount as so much weight. I'm hoping with a separate first part I can alter if required until the manifold and first mount are nice and unstressed, then slide the next part on. I also think this is how Alfa designed the system to be
Pete

 

So this 74 GTV I'm working on, I didn't take it apart, so I end up doing work like this by following Alfa parts manuals to see how it all goes together.

I'm using the Classic Alfa exhaust fastener kit which has a bunch of US-style split lock washers in it. But Alfa shows no lock washers or even spring washers in the exhaust hanging system. Instead it seems they double-nutted everything (see below)? What's the deal with that? Why wouldn't Alfa just use some sort of lock washer?

Also, did Alfa use copper or brass nuts on the bolts at the header-to-downpipe connection? I couldn't find any evidence that they did, but it seems like a good idea given the heat. Thoughts?

 

If your doing it yourself get the best ramps you can to lift the car as high as possible and get a couple of trolly jacks and Woden boards to take the weight of the silencers, it’s much easier to get everything aligned when the heavy bits are in roughly the right spot with no weight on the joints