Does your car still have its original hoses in the trunk - a fabric covering over the rubber hoses? The fabric covering can hide hose cracks & small leaks. Replace them. And use FI clamps, not regular hose clamps.

While you are checking & replacing things, clean the air intake valve and the one-way valve for the vapor recovery system. Some carb cleaning spray works well. Note that both items should function as one-way devices (and thus must be re-installed correctly).

 

Absolutely has all the original hoses, clamps. Typical VW looking components. I will order the slick colorful replacements right away. Do you recommend the trunk set only or more because this stuff is pretty expensive? I have surfed the high performance hose website and as I recall there are several "sets" available. What about the hoses which connect the injectors to the fuel manifold rail? Those look pretty "factory assembled and crimped"? Thanks for the instant reply, BTW.
Robert

 

I will order the slick colorful replacements right away. Do you recommend the trunk set only or more because this stuff is pretty expensive? I have surfed the high performance hose website and as I recall there are several "sets" available.

Yeah, they are not cheap but they should last the rest of your lifetime. Greg sells 2 or 3 kits for our cars. One is for the underhood hoses, one for the in-trunk hoses and I think there is a 3rd for the oil vapor seperator hoses.

What about the hoses which connect the injectors to the fuel manifold rail? Those look pretty "factory assembled and crimped"?

No crimps from the factory. And those hoses are a specific size - one I couldn't find at a local auto supply store. I ordered a couple of feet (to have plenty of extra) from IAP. The hose ends I re-used (the shop manual says to cut them off - don't do that). Those cup-shaped washers help keep the end of the FI hoses from ballooning out and the sharp barbs on the fuel rail & injectors grab the hoses quite firmly. Some use FI rated hose clamps (don't use the common worm drive clamps).

 

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Budee Budee - bet I can beat ya playin dominoes! Stuv901, you lost me at that last turn, or was it that last 10 hour visit to the local pub. And this thread relates to the topic at hand just HOW, Oat Willie????

 

looks like a spammer has gotten in again.
cliff

 

I too had a gas smell in the engine/passanger compartment of my S3 and under inspection I noticed what looked like a small stream of gas coming off one of the injector hoses. I'm replacing all the hoses as well as the one that leads to the rail. You can use FI bulk hose or buy IAP's kit with new washers. IAP says to use the washers on the injector side not the rail side, I guess so you will have protection on both sides. I'm just going to replace the hoses with bulk and leave the washers on the rail side as they came.

 

If you need the special washers then buy the kit from IAP. I'm not sure but it may be that the hose included in that kit may not be long enough. Instead carefully remove the old hoses (cut very carefully or use a soldering iron to burn through the hose to avoid nicking the hose barbs) cut a piece of new FI hose (from a length you buy in 'bulk') and re-use the cup shaped washers.

 

I was thinking, although I did have the problem of the fuel pump losing efficiency at levels below 1/2 a tank of gas. Some of you informed me of the booster pump in the tank which aids the main pump under the car - and how the failure of the in-tank pump leads to the 1/2 tank problem.

Interesting

I just had an issue couple of weeks ago that below 1/2 tank I starting sputtering, but upon fuel up, the car ran fine. Thought it was my dizzy going again. Whew

Well I was going to run this test I got off the BB:


"With the car OFF, disconnect the pink-white wire. Get yourself a remote starter switch at the auto parts store and connect it from positive on the battery to the now-vacant connector on the fuel tank where the wire was. Make sure you're ONLY clamped onto that connector and not touching any of the other connectors or the metal of the body. If you trigger the switch, you should hear a loud hum from the in-tank pump running. No hum and its toast."

Pump has been fine up until now, unless my float is "off" resulting in a incorrect reading. Any ideas?? Thanks, Steve

 

You can have one or two (or both) problems with the in-tank pump. It could be dead. The test described above ('hot-wiring' it using the remote starter switch) will let you hear if it is making the right noises when 12V is applied. (It should hum.)

The other possible problem is a faulty hose between the in-tank pump and the steel outlet pipe (still inside the tank). If that hose is faulty then the pump may well be pumping for all its worth but not actually pumping fuel out of the tank. This hose is short and, IIRC, 'stepped' (two different diameters) plus it is rediculously expensive for such a small part.

Either way, when the fuel level drops, the lack of fuel from the in-tank pump will often prevent the main pump (under the car - not in the tank) from being able to develop full pressure. And the lack of fuel pressure prevents the injectors from functioning properly (if at all).