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Is it possible to make a screenshot video on an iPhone? A video of the dashboard under acceleration would be great to have.
 
It would be nice if there was some kind of dongle you could plug into the usb version and connect by Bluetooth. Although I played with the curve using usb for a while and have great performance and haven't touched it in a couple of years now. I probably don't need to play with it any more, but I want to.
It isn't so bad, provided you have the distributor pointed in a reasonable direction. I have the port to the right on the Giulia, and I'm able to get the USB cable in fairly easily using a mechanic's mirror. I'm not sure I'd leave the allen screw cover open as that might expose the electronics to moisture (and, this being an Alfa, oil.)

Is it possible to make a screenshot video on an iPhone? A video of the dashboard under acceleration would be great to have.
I was going to say "I don't know how to do that" but then I found instructions on how to do that: https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT207935

Let me see what I can do, or maybe someone else will beat me to it.
 
Is anyone aware of whether it is possible to extract a square wave rpm *signal* from a 123 dizzy? I have the Zeitronix ZT2 AFR logger, but the analogue signal from the coil negative is very noisy. The dizzy does output an rpm signal as the 123 virtual "dashboard" contains a tacho - can this be pulled via the USB and extracted for use in other software, (or even just logged)? The 123 manufacturer does not respond to emails and all the resellers don't have that level of product knowledge.

I know some people (Ed) have built filters to effectively convert from analogue to digital (square) wave to provide a more stable rpm input for the ZT2, but my skills to build this, even with a circuit diagram, are limited! The "filter" in the zeitronix unit doesn't appear to be very effective.

Any ideas welcome.
I do not know what the above means or why it is important , I do know it is a reliable alternative to my 54 year old bosch and the notoriously accurate >:) Alfa analog gauges.
 
Discussion starter · #504 ·
I do not know what the above means or why it is important
It is because he wants a clean signal to input to his Zeitronix ZT2 so that he can data log AFR and RPM. There are many posts on that subject. It is as good as dyno testing for Weber or programmable FI tuning.
 
Here's a video if you want to see how it looks. Pulling out of a parking lot, accelerating up to speed, and then doing some accel/decel. If you click on the YouTube link it's a lot bigger on the site.

Note that I'm running 15deg vacuum advance, so the advance at times will be a lot higher than the centrifugal curve. Curves are shown below, I can probably get a bit more aggressive with the centrifugal ramp but I'm keeping it close-ish to stock curves until the car is sorted.


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That really is pretty neat! I was also thinking about timing runs in 3rd from say 3500 to 5500 with different setups like advance and jetting to see what works best. Might be a good way to quantify results. Done on the same road with the same conditions would be the way I'd do it. It would also be a good comparison within the community.
 
Discussion starter · #507 · (Edited)
I have done a lot of tuning and testing in the way that Mike has outlined. Here are my suggestions:
Do a series of at least 5 runs in a short space of time with no changes and look at the variance in the data. This will help you identify real changes from "noise".
Do a number of runs, one after another with a particular setup and use the mean time. I used 5 runs.
Be wary of inferring performance changes from data collected on different days. You may be surprised how much temperature, barometric pressure, humidity, wind speed and wind direction can affect timed runs. I tried to test one change per day.
Some changes may produce more torque in one part of the rev range and less in another so do the tests over the rev range that is most meaningful to you.
 
That's the way to do it for sure. Now if we can only have a bluetooth AFR incorporated into the 123 dashboard. The possibilities makes one giddy just to think about.
 
I am running this curve on a 1600 (not a veloce) 64 Euro sprint seems to be "happy"..
 

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I'm also finding getting the advance in sooner helps the low end. I have a 2 mile hilly (for around here) drive on a black top road before I get to the highway that is a posted 35 mph. When I take it easy I'll be in 4th and going up the small hills the extra advance gives me a smooth pull up the hill. On a semi related subject 60 mph is 1500 rpm in 8th gear in the Giulia. 60 at 1500 rpm, that's just crazy.
 
Is anybody currently using the switched model? I am finally getting my car to where I can feel the effects of the different curves.

2000 SPICA with motronic pistons, 10548 intake cam otherwise stock but fully rebuilt.

I am currently on curve 1 which has 32° of total of advance starting at 700 ending at 4200. The car feels good but then I dont have much to compare it to besides curve A which felt more sluggish but I was previously using to try and stabilize the idle as it did not start advancing until 1000.

At this point I am unsure where to go or even how to approach advance from a theoretical standpoint. Can / should a healthy high compression 2000 run more advance? I see several references to curve D which has only 21° of total advance. If I were to use that would you dial in significantly more static advance to end up back at or above 30° total?

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I read many references to the D curve. Does it really only have 21deg total advance per the chart? Does that mean its often run with 10 or more degrees static advance?
 
Discussion starter · #514 ·
Does it really only have 21deg total advance per the chart? Does that mean its often run with 10 or more degrees static advance?
Yes. It works well for hot motors that only need about 34 degrees max advance due to high compression but require more idle advance due to the big cams. It is a derivation of the curve that Jim Kartamalakis describes in his book. It also results in more advance in the 2000 - 4000 range which improves low end torque. If you think that curve 1 is a bit dead then you night want to try the Shankle curve E. The downside, at least with Webers is that it makes it difficult to achieve a steady, consistent idle at 800 - 1000 rpm. It might work better with SPICA,
 
You might want to try the F curve. As thats the distributor that came with the Spica engines.
 
Yes F is the stock dizz but the stock timing was set 5-7deg ATDC.

Im happy to try any and all of these curves. Would you all agree that approx 34-38ish degrees is a good max advance? How do I make decisions regarding static advance? More static advance will have the effect of increasing idle speed, correct?
 
Discussion starter · #517 ·
The F curve was to meet emissions. Almost no advance at idle, very slow ramp results in poor throttle response and fuel consumption. I think that I went through this at the start of the thread.
 
I am happy to do this empirically but also like to understand what I am doing in theory.

What about the D curve with 10 or more degrees base timing for 31+ degrees max would be inappropriate to my relatively stock 10:1 Spica motor?

Is the relatively high static advance a ‘fix’ for hot cams and not otherwise desirable ?
 
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