Does the 164 use the same sender as the GTV6 (and perhaps the Milano)? I got a sender from NAPA a few years ago for our GTV6 (after the old one would give wonky readings and nearly gave me a heart attack when the gauge would drop while driving on the highway). So far so good... (I did have to order it and wait a week for delivery.)

 

This shows 1971 -1995 would share a common sender. I would guess there is more specific info for each car...likes/dislikes.
https://www.centerlinealfa.com/catalog/oil-pressure-sender-gauge-1971

Roadtrip’s excellent info is here. I meant to link this earlier.
http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/164...ums/164-168-1991-1995/198632-164s-oil-pressure-gauge-sunpro-sending-unit-2.html

 

Hmm, good work. If one of my Bosch ones fail, I could look at this one.

BTW, I need your address, John, so send an email or call and leave a message. Finally got back from Cape Cod. Had a pretty good time there, the whale watch was superb, surrounded by whales feeding everywhere. However, still suffering from allergies picked up in Maryland when we first visited friends there before CT. Don't think I'll come back here in the spring again, lol.

cheers,

 

The engine rpm is irrelevant. What is relevant is the actual pressure vs. indicated.

 

John, does it not appear to be a reasonable alternative?

 

It would appear that just about any 240-33 ohm sender would be fine, as long as the threads were compatible. However, due to the mismatch between the sender and dash gauge, if you want accurate readings you need to use the resistor.

 

"BTW, I need your address, John, so send an email or call and leave a message"

Or, just PM. That works fine, shows up here on the BB and our email.

While it is true that the pressure reading comparison to the actual is top priority, the values shown for the recorded car gauge readings are pretty close to to what I get in my two 164s with the Bosch/Sunpro senders, and reasonable it seem, not quite as high though as I see. I see about 50-55 psi at hot 3000 rpm at cruise, and about the same as shown at hot idle, ~25 psi as confirmed b y a mechanical gauge at those rpms.

Otherwise, on our trip so far, saw one Giulia and one Stelvio in Provincetown on Cape Cod, and three Masers, and one Tesla Model 3, plus a slew of Model S's.

 

"BTW, I need your address, John, so send an email or call and leave a message"

Or, just PM. That works fine, shows up here on the BB and our email.

Just sent over a PM.

 

I have two Milano cars and the oil pressure reads high in one car and low in the other car. I have changed oil pressure sensors and believe that the sensors are not accurate. There is a low oil pressure light and that is a good warning for no oil pressure. The older Alfas used a mechanical gauge and that is more accurate than the electronic gauges in my opinion.

 

These senders are not very accurate but they don't need to be accurate. You just want to know if the pressure deviates significantly from normal. Install a new sensor that you think will be reliable and mark the gauge for the normal pressure range when the engine is hot. Only worry about it if it indicates outside of the marked range.

 

I was going to buy a 164 years ago, but among other things the oil pressure gauge was obviously not indicating correctly and the response was "that's just a gauge error, everything is fine." Right. That alone would have stopped the sale in my eyes. If not substantially correct, you might as well have just an idiot light.

 

I find this interesting. ciao, chris

 

and.....

 

I have a spider oil pressure gauge in my GTV6 that indicates fuel pressure. It uses a generic sensor and a home made amplifier circuit. The numbers on the oil pressure gauge are meaningless but I will know if I have a fuel pressure problem if it indicates outside of the normal range. This is a lot more useful than a low pressure warning light.

I designed and built circuits for GPRocket to interface different senders to different gauges. They have zero and range adjustment so that they will read correctly at two points but the senders have different slopes and the gauges have linearity errors. The senders also have hysteresis which means that the same pressure will indicate differently depending upon whether the pressure is rising or falling.

 

If I could go back in time, post 1 would just say...

I used this different pressure sender. It just needs a ground wire from the g terminal. Otherwise it installs and reacts like the Bosch sender. Adjust with a resistor as you see fit.

 

See post #27 of this thread for sensor accuracy information or read the whole thread for more information on sensors, gauges and failure modes http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/spider-105-115-series-1966-1994/381681-oil-pressure-gauge-2.html

 

come on John, you know us... ask the time and we tell you how to build the clock. You been around long enuff... ciao, chris

 

come on John, you know us... ask the time and we tell you how to build the clock.

And then it generally devolves into an argument on how to lubricate the clock.

 

since you mentioned it Tom....

ciao, chris

 

It’d be something to see the torque procedure on that assembly.

 

This was my last Bosch sender after about 2 months. This was posted in another recent thread. The short life span got me started on this. You can see where it got stuck.

 

Well, that's pretty janky. You sure that's Bosch? The ones I've seen aren't wire wound, they use a resistive strip. Pics here:

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/164-168-1991-1995/52549-bad-oil-pressure-sender.html#post465093

 

I got so frustrated with oil pressure senders once, I took the sender out and replaced it with a bolt and washer. It never failed!

 

I can only say it came out of a Bosch box. There are no markings on the part.

I didn’t disassemble my first Bosch sender. That one leaked from the top. I think the internal gasket failed, and the screw was able to be pulled through the top.

 

The couple of failed sensors that I cut up were wire wound. One was torn up like yours and the other was contaminated with oil.