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  • DanW ·
    Hi Del, I hope you can help with my stuck front driver door. My 94Q's driver door is closed. The exterior handle lifts with no resistance and to no effect. I entered through the passenger door and attempted to open the driver door with the interior handle. I felt it resist then go free. The door did not open and cannot. Therefore I am unable to remove the door panel itself.

    I removed the center door pad and cut an access hole through the plastic. The cable itself seems inoperable. I reached the linkage shat should open the lock, felt how it could work, manipulated a few levers but nothing. Foolishly undaunted I removed the entire panel from the passenger side just to figure out how everything should work but nothing was at all clear -especially since I couldn't close the door without putting the panel back in place thus blocking any view.

    I'm completely lost at this point. Any help you could provide will be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

    -Dan Weiss
    Del ·
    If your car does not have a rear spoiler as the S and Q do, then use springs from the B or L.

    If the car is an S or Q, then try to find those stronger springs (I don't know if they can yet be ordered from Alfa). If they cannot be found, try using the more common weaker B or L springs, and attaching "helper" springs from a hardware store to increase the stiffness.
    DSpieg ·
    Solar Max! I wonder if you knew my friend (and future boss) Mike Miller, he was with Fairchild Space (now Orbital-ATK), was a structural analyst too then, did some NASTRAN modeling back when it was pretty new and gee-whiz stuff. He was my best friend in college at U-Md. and the guy who dragged me into the space business from my previous work (underwater acoustics).

    Small world!

    Ciao,

    Dave Spiegelthal
    Centreville, VA
    alfafan61 ·
    Del:

    My struggle is I am on the road most days and when I am home I am pulled in many directions. I have been depending on my son to pull the parts but I see now that just is not happening. I have others emailing me for stuff he said he already too care of.


    So I owe you a side marker light, the sensor and what trim parts again? I have determined I will simply need to get out there at night and do it myself.

    Very sorry for this delay.

    Cal
    choetboi ·
    p và Phát triển nông thôn huyệ bán chuối hột rừng tại hà nội h Sỳ nảy ra ý địn
    p và Phát triển nông thôn h nơi bán cây đinh lăng giống, sau đó làm đơn
    án với giá 500.000/kg như giá củ ba kích mua ở đâu iện tích Tam thấ
    án với giá 500.000/kg như g bán sâu chít t tâm tìm hiểu kỹ cách t
    0 triệu đồng cho gia đình. Anh Sỳ cho biết địa chỉ mua tam thất h Sỳ nảy ra ý định quyết t
    thông báo tới các c địa chỉ bán dứa dại để có biện phá
    kết hợp với việc mua dâm dương hoắc CSGT cũng sẽ kế
    alfafan61 ·
    Del I have the marker light pulled. It will be a while until I get the other parts. Do you want me to send the light ahead?
    ChiapC ·
    Hey Del, I just saw that you sent me a visitor message back in January! Sorry!!

    I'm not sure if I ever responded, being that it was so long ago. I ended up using all of Goats' window regulator's for my car, as mine were all toast. I kept them all in case somebody wanted to try to fix or bring them back to life if you're interested in them still.....

    Again, sorry for the delay.

    Chase
    Del ·
    Steven

    Thanks for the info. I had not thought about just installing schrader valves and refilling. Will have to think about that. Doesn't appear to exhibit any gas pressurization extension as the other one does. Maybe that's part of the softness problem.

    I have now noticed that the used low mileage rhs front strut does have some internal corrosion coming through the outer metal wrap (with that thick spacer between the extended flanges) which is at the bottom on each side, in a couple of locations, one each side. That joint evidently had not been properly protected by the factory, and I think these struts were from an east coast car. The driver's side is fine. I have to decide as to whether or not it is structurally sound. Most likely is, but it is irritating to see that. The struts look fine otherwise, with almost no corrosion at the very top of the shafts. Once again, it is the rh strut with the most corrosion at that location. I think that strut is older.

    thanks again,

    Del
    pinino ·
    Hi Del,

    Greetings from Denver where we are attending a music library association convention.

    Although the dyno graphs of the pair of front struts I rebuilt also show a stronger driver's side strut I''m doubtful that this difference is intentional. More likely to me is that they aimed to have identical calibration when they left the factory, but over time the spring tension at the piston valve of one has wandered, it could also be that the calibration of the foot valve has wandered. There are probably other reasons, too, who knows. That's nice you have a set of "young" struts to try out. You know, you could actaully dismantle these struts, clean them, have schrader valves installed, replace the oil and gas them without replacing the oem double lip seals. I'd replace only the top o-rings. Just be very careful that the strut shafts have no sharp edges as you slide off the double seal. --Steven
    Del ·
    One thing to check on your 164 is near the top of the front left strut where it bolts into the inner fender sheet metal, some have reported cracking in that sheet metal at the screw hole for the coolant overflow tank nearest that large strut hole. I've seen it in a few 164s, including my 91S. Had to have it welded up, with a reinforcing washer welded on to help take the load at that screw location.
    jckevin ·
    Thanks for getting back to me. I will get a quote from Premier in the spring. Might be best to get it painted around summertime -- while I'm drivin' my Spider! However, I could always bring it down there sooner. Maybe I will drive over to Seattle and we can meet for lunch or something. I'd love to get your ideas, impressions. My mechanic will have the fuel pump replaced tomorrow and plans to drive it. He says various issues may crop up once it's driven ... the car has sat for a long while.
    jckevin ·
    Del - the trunk lid on my Q is slightly out of whack. My mechanic thinks the PO tried to close it when something was blocking it from closing. It's bent a bit on the driver's side right near the hinge/spring. Do you know a good and not too expensive shop that could fix it?
    dinogt4guy ·
    how did you remove your fan motor on your 164? I am starting to look at mine. Just a metal clip is all I have found so far? can I just remove the back section where the motor is? HELP! Thx!
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