Interesting that this post should come up today, as I was just about to write one related to Magnecor wires.

About a month ago I installed Magnecor Electrosports 80 Ignition Cable SS25-200T, Metallic Inductance EMI Suppressed conductors, All Silicone construction. Resistance of wires with distributor cap included, contact brushed clean to spark plug fitting:
a. Cyl #1: 3.436 kOhms
b. Cyl #2: 5.140 kOhms
c. Cyl #3: 6.650 kOhms
d. Cyl #4: 7.140 kOhms
e. Cyl #5: 8.883 kOhms
f. Cyl #6: 10.019 kOhms
g. Coil: 10.088 kOhms
h. Meter Error: + 0.08 Ohms @ 70F
15. Installed new distributor cap, Brand: FACET, Made in Italy, P/N: 2.7481PHT
16. Installed new distributor rotor, Brand: Facet, Made in Italy, P/N: 3.7573/13RS

Now what is happening is I have a slight misfire at changing from 2nd to 3rd in low speed and usually when cold engine. The original wires from alfa (GTV6 1982) which are the BOSCH ones, all have 2.4 kOhms. My question is: would the mismatch of resistance with the Magnecor wires cause a misfire?

Thanks,

Namarena

 

DC resistance of these wires makes no difference. The differences in the lengths is the reason for these reading. The material in the wires are quite different from one to another. Your timing could be a little off, because more resistance is more time.

 

I've had Magnecor wires on my Milano for 10 years they seem to work and look great.

 

I run magnacores. swapped to them when I did the top end rebuild last year. new cap, rotor and swapped the +4's to my preferred iridium plugs.

did the mod to the AFM spring and retimed the ignition and it pulls like a train with no missteps or hiccups.

 

JoeCab (of Centerline Alfa) mentioned that they had seen problems in the V6 with resistance wires due to the big resistance variation from the wire lengths. I believe that's why they only sell the OEM wires with resistor ends for the V6. Try pinging him for more details.

 

Ah, here's the post:

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/alfetta-gtv6-1972-1986/162835-re-86-gtv6-plug-wires.html#post856241

 

The differnce is the Bosch wires are copper with a fix resistor built into the Plug connector. That's why the resistance value is the same on the Bosch. The magnacores have the resistance built into the wire itself. The resistance should not make a difference since the pulse is a High Voltage A/C and 7K ohm is not going to make a bit of difference when your talking ~40K Volts going to the plug.

I had a simular problem, different cirumstances. I insalled a Bosch CDI unit in my race car and she wouldn't start, because the delay of the CDI unit retarded the time. Turn the timing just a pinch and she fired right up. This made me to conclude, because of the extra resistance in the magnacores may delay the pulse as well.

 

while we're on the subject...............

I've installed Magnecor "blue" wires on several GTV6s. They work just fine. I have noticed that the Magnecor plug caps don't "snap in place" like the factory wires do. It's very easy to think you've seated a Magnecor wire when you haven't.

 

In a box of parts I got with the the spider were a set of new Magnecore wires. I put them on and the car just ran smoother and better through the gears. Would I do it again...Absolutely!

 

From the figures provided by namarena, the Magnecor numbers aren't really that wide apart.

But you don't have to be a genius to know that nothing conducts electricity like copper wire! Well, actually a couple other metals, but remember, cost is a factor. It also has excellent signal capability. Just think, your cable or DSL runs over single jacketed co-ax or 2-wire telephone. Point being, on these old cars with early analog/electronic injection. It might be important.

So I decided to measure the resistance on the old set that came with my car. I replaced them with stock wires because the Kingsborne cost about the same and the Bremi Blue don't have that positive click when seating either. Anyway, results below:

Coil: 1.05 kOhms
#1: 2.57 kOhms
#2 2.60 kOhms
#3 2.53 kOhms
#4 3.12 - and would start climbing
#5 5.6 kOhms
#6 3.8 kOhms - and would start jumping

My voltage meter is a granny Micronta, and I suspected maybe battery getting tired. So I re-checked #1 and rock-steady at 2.57 kOhms. Obviously, a couple of bad resisters in this set. I wonder what I would get if I measured the new ones. 8|