Vick has them in their current catalogue at $310.95-****!

 

After searching for 18mos I finally threw in the towel and dropped $230 on an NOS Sachs pressure plate and throwout bearing combo.

Flywheel and pressure plate needed resurfacing, so with my obsessive nature, I was going to have the assembly balanced anyway. Made me feel a little better about the price. As Jeff referenced above the few that I found were a little less than half the price of a whole clutch set.

A few on this board have had their old ones repacked, but I can't find anyone in Indy that would do it. My old one is still good and tight, but it's just too dry to trust re-using. If I could find someone to repack it, I'd have it done with Krytox and keep it as my spare.

 

The problem with mine was that the casting failed because of wear from the clutch fork. Thats interesting that someone lists new ones, I wonder if they are actually new, or if they are NOS that just happened to be found someplace. When I did mine I just put a low mileage used one in, hopefully someone will reproduce them by the time i could get another milano though.

 

Throw out bearing

I was able to find listing "google 'AFRA.IT' " for alfetta bearing, which I
believe is same. Total price last Feb. was $93.00 Canadian delivered to West Coast Canada. A lot better than $300 plus for complete clutch package.
I used email and Paypal for satisfactory conclusion.
Regards, Wilf
Alfa7

 

I was able to find listing "google 'AFRA.IT' " for alfetta bearing, which I
believe is same. Total price last Feb. was $93.00 Canadian delivered to West Coast Canada. A lot better than $300 plus for complete clutch package.
I used email and Paypal for satisfactory conclusion.
Regards, Wilf
Alfa7

If only. I found that site and got excited until I saw the part #. Though they list it for the 75 it isn't the NA version as far as I know. They list a #60521134
where I needed a #60518223.

 

Do you know the difference between the #60521134 and #60518223? I don't.
I found a ZF/Sachs cross-reference 3151 061 102 vs. 3151 010 001

Also there is a timken reference in the catalog, which numbers are posted in
http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/suspension-brakes-wheels-tires/141809-timken-catalogue.html
I just found the info in a timken aftermarket application catalog, then found that it was already in this 2008-vintage alfabb post. I hope this helps.

 

I contacted Timken to see if their bearing was available and unfortunately got this response:

Hi Kevin. After some investigation and several emails and phone calls, it appears all inventory has been exhausted and 614102 will be made obsolete due to no supplier. I checked FM and SKF only to find they have already made this part obsolete and unavailable. We will be removing application listings from our catalog data as well.

You may be able to find this part on Ebay, internet, or a dealers shelf, but I have no way of finding out who may still have stock on this part.

Please contact me if I can be of further assistance.

I am committed to answering your questions as quickly and accurately as possible, and would appreciate your feedback on my performance. Please take a moment to complete this short survey so that I can improve my service. Click on the link to answer the questions: Timken Continuous Improvement Survey

Thanks!
Allen Kekel
PRINCIPAL- GLOBAL CATALOGING
330-471-6794 Work
330-471-6890 Fax

Visit us on the web for more parts and torque specifications Timken Automotive Application Online Catalog

 

Fits Alfa Romeo Alfetta GTV 75 90 Clutch Release Bearing 0620344 NEW | eBay

???

 

That must be an Alfetta bearing as it doesn't look like a Milano/75 bearing.

Kevin

 

Kevin, that is disturbing!
I have just started looking at new throwout bearings, as my supply of good original ones is drying up.
The reason why they are no longer available is, they were so good, they almost never wore out or failed. And I have close up experience with a lot of very high mileage original ones.
Hence, the supplier would see no demand and not make more.

 

Took a picture of a Milano bearing that I had on the workbench so you can compare it to that eBay one, not even close.

I was trying to take this one apart to see if it could be repacked. Thought I had figured it out seeing the circlip like retainer at the base (you can just see it in the picture if you look on the left side). It is not really a circlip as it doesn't have the holds for the pliers but you can easily remove it with a little screwdriver as it is not held in with much force. I got it out and after looking at it have no clue why it is there as it doesn't appear to be holding anything in. I had thought the bearing part would slip out after removing that clip, no such luck. Anyone ever figure out how to get one of these apart?

Kevin

 

Took a picture of a Milano bearing that I had on the workbench so you can compare it to that eBay one, not even close.

Ah, bummer. Thanks for the correction. :thumbup1:

 

So you can press it out? That circlip I mentioned is actually holding it in? I tried putting mine on my press without that circlip in but nothing seemed to move when I applied pressure and I didn't want to destroy it.

So in my picture & bearing orientation above the center part would press out upwards (i.e. and why that circlip would have to be removed)? If so that is awesome!

Kevin

 

Took another closer look with a magnifying lens with the circlip removed and now could see the seam, it sucks getting old! It was actually quite easy to press out now that I wasn't afraid and was pressing on the center part, came out with hardly any force at all.

Picture one shows it in the press with couple sockets to press it out.

Picture two shows all the parts of the throw out/clutch release bearing.

Picture three shows a closeup of the actual bearing part.

Now I just have to see about getting the old grease out and packing in some new.

Kevin

 

Well done Kevin! And thank you for the tech work. I think we all will need to know this as time goes on.

 

For those interested, you don't even need a press. All you have to do is hold the bearing in one hand (after having removed the circlip and a good wash and dry with thinner to remove all crud) and tap around the circumference with a small hammer, moving it circularly every time so it moves out evenly. You then wash the bearing thoroughly removing all grease and carefully repack with new grease. Supposedly, white lithium grease is most suitable for this job, but I have found a good brand wheel bearing grease to be 100% suitable. I actually prefer it, as it doesn't ooze out of the seam as lithium grease does when you rotate it for a while.
Jim K.

 

This thread is really informative. One of these days I'll be freshening up my Verde's transaxle so this is awesome.
But if I may, could an aftermarket solution be possible? Many late model cars have a hydraulic throwout bearing. McCleod makes aftermarket ones. Might one of these be doable if the dimensions are close?
McLeod Racing - 1300 Series. Bearing Only
Considering the creative talent on this forum, I bet this could be an effective long-term fix that would take care of two maintenance issues with these cars in one assembly.

 

Is the actual throwout bearing, sans housing, itself available retail?

 

does anyone have the numbers on the bearing itself? measurements? is there any numbers on the side of the bearing?

 

There were no numbers on the ones I had. Also from the vertical orientation of the picture above it looks like a normal bearing but that isn't the case, here is another shot of it from the other side.

Kevin

 

Hmmm. Would a bearing with a bigger bore and a machined sleeve/insert work do you think?

 

Possibly, that is the side that holds it to the spring plate, as long as it attaches OK to that it might not matter if the setup is different.

Kevin

 

Maybe a bit late now... But any chance you can get me accurate measurements and a sketch drawing of everything?
If a sleeve could be made up to suit another sized bearing, id be willing to do the programming and CNC work to make them. Make it an interference fit into the bearing so it doesn't budge. Use a standard bearing that can be obtained over the counter...

I can get a lot of bar that size in various material... If I'm imagining the right thing/shape, they'd be fast to make (eg. I make threaded velocity stacks for vintage motorbikes for fellas at work in about 10minures a peice plus 1hr set up...).

Iv had a few drinks with dinner so maybe I'm rambling...

 

I can try, don't know if I can take accurate enough measurements but I'll give it a shot. Probably won't be able to get to it until tomorrow though.

Kevin

 

So I took another look at this and I don't think you'd be able to use a normal bearing and just add an insert. The outer race for the bearing is actually the thick outer wall of the overall T/O bearing, it is not a bearing pressed into a shell. The thick outer wall is best seen in posting #12 above, a couple of the pics do make it look like you could use a normal bearing but that isn't really so.

Kevin

 

a quick picture of what my friday sketching at work came up with... based on a $600+ SKF bearing, but if you happy to use other brands you can get it cheaper. for example, Timken 9310K is only $90au. bearing size is ID- 50mm, OD - 72mm, Width - 12mm.

ill have to machine up the new 'housing' bits though.

 

So you are going to try to machine up a new housing with a replaceable bearing? That would be pretty sweet.

Kevin

 

yep, that's the plan. when i get hold of a bearing i will.
since its a CNC ill just make multiples.