[Alfissimo Int.]

If I were rebuilding an engine and could get the parts, I'd do it. Given the track record of belt integrity with a Hydraulic De-Tensioner installed, I feel pretty comfortable even with a trapezoidal profile belt.

I have to agree with you John.

 

[Alfissimo Int.]

All timed and ready to go. I turned it over about 10 times just for fun, well to make sure it was tracking right and everything was smooth. It seems to be right on. The belt runs right down the middle of the pulleys which I prefer. The originals seemed to want to run on the side of the pulley which in my opinion seemed strange but never an issue.

Draining coolant system and then will button it all up and start it up. I pretty excited over this project even though it does not give me more HP or anything like that but I do know the belt is stout with those deep teeth. I never worried too much with the old style and hydraulic belt, I have to say.

 

[Alfissimo Int.]

Well, She's running. Everything seems normal. The only thing that was bothersome to me was that the rear cam pulley and oil pump pulley have a different alignment than the front cam pulley. On the front the belt rides along the edge but in the rear it rides about 1mm from the edge. Under further inspection I believe for this to be normal. I checked my old pulleys and the wear pattern on those pulley's matches the new ones. I guess I just never noticed it previously./Users/parts/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Previews/2015/09/04/20150904-091134/IMG_7246.jpg

 

[Alfisto Steve]

Today I converted my spare 6096 mile 164L engine to the later Euro 60500466 timing belt, 60808899 cam pulleys with factory dowel pins (ss by 60655129 pulleys that Jason used with added pressed fit D drill rod dowel pins), 60500453 one piece pulley keyed hubs, 60513853 aux shaft pulley and 60500465 crankshaft cog gear. I also used original oil fed 60808222 detensior/tensioner.

The minor problem I foresee is the next time we need to remove cam pulley hubs is we will have to modify/drilled out our M7 bolt cam pulley hub pullers to accept M8 bolts because we had to install M8x125 bolts after threading 60655129 Euro cam pulleys to M8x125 threads. The used 60808899 pulleys I have were already threads to that size. I used a three legged puller to pop off one piece 60500453 hubs since engine out of car but thst would not be possible on rear cam hub with engine in a 164.

I plan to still use the old two piece 60569080 cam pulley hub with 60507327 oring on rear head in case I would ever need to remove rear head with engine in 164. Still would have to use pancake Totally Alfa puller drilled out to accept M8 bolts or my Home Depot homemade plumbing flange puller with larger M8 bolt holes, too.

Here are the Euro parts I used and the engine set up at the start at top dead center (TDC) using template and marks on front crank pulley.

 

[Alfisto Steve]

Installing stepped pin in oil fed tensioner, right cam and left cam timing marks, pin in tensioner and remover crank pulley nut with timing belt still in place to hold crank in place.

 

[Alfisto Steve]

Removing crank pulley, aux pulley and setting up cam pulleys and water pump pulley to remove:

 

[Alfisto Steve]

Setting up to remove cam pulleys:

Note: pancake puller on rear cam and OEM factory puller on front cam.

 

[Alfisto Steve]

Front cam pulley hub hits thermostat. Once thermostat removed comes right off. Used small puller to remove crank cog gear. Used antiseize on new crank cog gear before I installed it.

 

[Alfisto Steve]

Old pulley alignment and new pulley aligment checks then after new euro belt on rechecking timing marks

 

[Alfisto Steve]

Pulling euro pulley with one piece hub back off with three legged puller because M7 bolt pulleys will not work with M8 bolts without modifying/drilling out holes in pullers to accept longer and larger diameter M8 bolts.

I removed euro set up and reinstalled old flat tooth set up and stashed engine back under bench.

I didn't wanted to let new euro timing belt age out of the box until I am ready to install it and use engine.

 

[Alfissimo Int.]

I'd like to see where your belt rides after a some rotations of the motor. I took mine on a spin today and all seems well. Still not idea why both pulleys are the same with the timing belt alignment. I suppose maybe since this is a 1993 engine something could be different. Only thing I can do is shim the front pulley. I also used a straight edge to make sure pulleys were in-fact straight. Yup!

 

[Alfissimo Int.]

Running like a bat out of hell! All is fine so far. Timing belt is not an issue with current alignment. Must be spec from alfa for 1993 engine.

Feeling good so far. I have taken it out all day with no issues. I will be inspecting things this weekend to make sure I am on the right track.

 

[Alfisto Steve]

I am waiting on another set of the 4 new old stock euro spec cam pulleys, aux pulley and crank cog gear to arrive from IT. The cam pulleys are supposed to be the ones with the pressed in dowel pins for a facelift 164 12v V6.

Chris has ordered me a couple new euro timing belts.

I already have a set of used euro cam pulleys with pressed in dowel pins but with M8 threaded bolt holes. Waiting to see if new gears I get will have M7 threaded bolt holes or M8 ones.

 

[Alfisto Steve]

Got my new set of four euro cam, aux and crank cog pulleys today form IT.

The new Cam pulleys had the pressed in dowel pins but inverted from the used set I already had and no 8mm threads or any threads in the three bolt holes. I pressed to dowel pin from inverted on back of cam pulley to the "overted" position so protruding from front of pulley like our flat teeth pulleys. I tapped the 3 non-threaded holes to M8x1.25 thread size and found some M8x1.25 grade 8.8 bolts to attach one piece hub and two piece hub with oring. As I said in another post I plan to use two piece hub with oring on rear cam because of clearance problem between rear cam pulley and chassis. I might drill and tap two M7x1.00 bolt holes to install the 4th and 5th M7 size bolts used on two piece hubs.

 

[Alfisto Steve]

One with two piece cam pulley hub w/oring and one with one piece hub both with M8 bolts 8.8 grade. Grade 5.8 bolts maybe OK as I haven't looked at original M7 bolts used in old flat teeth cam pulleys.

Again I want to point out that we have to tap the non-threaded holes in pulleys to M8 size since we can't use Euro threaded hubs on our longer protruding cam shaft ends. These Euro pulleys are were bolted to fronts of later euro facelift threaded hubs with M7 bolts. So we will have to modify (drill out holes in the OEM Alfa or Totally Alfa pancake pullers to accept M8 bolts in order to pull cam pulley hubs off the cam to remove rear head with engine in 164 or change oil seals in heads.

At least with our original front facing cam hubs we still have the factory scribed timing marks in them to be able to use Rick's timing template so we don't have to pull valve covers off engine to see timing marks.