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Alfa Romeo 166 3.0 24 v (Brand New Factory Test Engine)

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6.4K views 12 replies 6 participants last post by  scorp2x  
#1 ·
V6 3.0 24Valve 230 HorsepowerFactory Test Engine from Fiat/Alfa. This engine is from a 2005 Alfa Romeo Spider, 166, and GTV. This engine comes with a starter, Factory tubular headers, A/C pump, Power steering pump, Flywheel, All wiring harnesses including the ECU box(computer). If you have any questions please fell free to call Mario Ricambi @ 416-727-6243. To rebuild an Alfa 164 or any 3.0 V6 engine including Labour it will cost you somewhere in the range of $5000 and up. I am willing to deliver up to 250 miles for free. This item is listed on ebay (item#230387270606)
 

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#4 ·
Note that engine appears to have water outlets out the "back" so to speak. Unlike 164 which has water outlets out the "front". Or in 164 terms, the 164 engine has the water outlets on the timing belt side (at passenger front wheel), while listed engine appears to have them on the opposite end of engine. It appears to be later style 24v engine with chain driven oil pump and hence greater belt overlap on "last" cam gear.
Jes
 
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#5 ·
I'm guessing that the water ports coming off the 'back' side of the engine might kill any thoughts of plugging this into a GTV6... jah?

I understand that a 24 valve 3.0 (164) motor will fit under a GTV6 hood without adding more bulges. But I'm not sure what other nightmares await in that transplant?

Where is the engine located?

Peter in Vermont
 
#7 ·
Jes is correct - this is one of the "new"(er) generation motors. We actually ran one in a Milano with the t-stat still at the rear, but it took quite a bit of fancy plumbing to bring the water around the sides - back to the front and the fit was VERY tight back there!

We currently run new gen. engines in the two 3.7 Milanos and here we had the builder (Glenwood in SA) convert the water in and outs back to a front-mounted T-stat setup. Not for the faint of heart though. It will sit on the standard engine mounts. The GTV6 tail-housing and starter is a direct bolt-on. Intake plenum needs to be converted. Headers need to be converted. You need the new gen motors harness and ECU, AFM, idle control, electronic throttle too! I'd rather dump all of that and buy a stand-alone engine management system and use manual throttle. Still have to convert the plenum and the one valve cover.

Also, you would need an Alfetta booster and pedal box in a GTV6 or base model Milano.

You have to convert the sump though and with this new gen. motor with the chain-driven oil-pump off of the crank, it takes more than simply bolting a Milano/GTV6 sump on - you have to make a custom sump, or cut and weld the new gen sump a quite a bit!

For a 164 install, neither sump works (12 valve or 24 valve 164 sump doesn't fit the new gen motor and the new gen engine's sump doesn't fit in the 164, so more welding to do there! Headers won't fit either car, nor will the location of the A/C or the P/S pump - you need some custom brackets. On the flywheel, the 164 unit should work just fine.

Shipping may be 600-800 from Europe to the States.

It's all do-able though; call me if you need some help!
 
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#8 ·
One extra dumb question from a ******:
I have an extra 3.0 Milano Verde engine. I haven't taken the time to check into whether valves have met pistons yet, so it may need new pistons, rebore, and perhaps new valves or heads.

If I have to replace pistons, I may as well bore it out to something larger while I'm at it (available pistons and sleeves will likely dictate what that ends up being). If the valves are munched... can I just bolt some 24 valve heads onto the Milano block? Or are there bosses for the extra pulleys on the 164 block that are necc?

I expect that a larger bore (3.2, 3.5, 3.7?) may require some grinding or rework on the heads, to get the 3 recesses on each head to now match the larger bore.

If I need to find a 24 valve 3.0 motor... do those automatically have the 'S' cams, or do I have to chose between 24v and 'S' cams? If the 24v heads did not arrive with 'S' cams, can those cams be installed in place of the existing ones?

Forgive my innocence here... just trying to find out if I'd be getting in deeper than I might be prepared to deal with. Oooops... guess that turned out to be more than one question!

Thanks,
Peter
 
#9 · (Edited)
Yeah, jeez - so - a-LOT going on here... :D Um - I was there once too...:) Don't worry about it!

So, the 24 valve heads don't bolt to the 12 valve blocks without some MAJOR effort... You're better off just buying a 24 valve core and going from there. Open up the 12 valve, inspect it and go from there.

Then - there is NO amount of bore that is going to yield any discernable amount of displacement increase. You have to go with much larger liners and the block has to be precision-bored to receive those larger liners! (You're at a 93mm bore on a 3.0 and you have to get to at least 100mm - just to get to up to 3.45 litres)! The long-stroke 78mm crank from the 3.2 GTA gets you the rest of the way up to a 3.7 litre!

The crank alone on your current bore gets you to 3.2 and yes - after the bore-increase - you need to rework the heads, so it is more than just the domes fitting the hemis!

Next - the "S" designation is one that belongs to 12 valve engines. It was a mildly longer duration cam that came in the top model 12 valve 164 cars - in the 164 "S" and that has nothing to do with the 24 valvers. The 24 valvers had there own "sport" model and that was the Q with the larger intake runners - supposedly bumping power up to 230 horses over the stock 210 horses of the base "LS/Super" 24 valve base models.

A comparable "S" cam-upgrade in the 24v engines is a retrofit of the 156 GTA 3.2 litre inlet cam into the 164 3.0 engine! (We call it GTA Stage I...) We cut our own GTA Sage II cams that really wakes things up in a 24 valve. Stage III moves the Stage II profile to the exhaust and goes even wilder on the inlet, so now you're changing out all 4 cams!

12 valve cams don't fit the 24 valve heads.

There's much more to talk about - maybe give me a buzz at 425.941.4747 - my advice is free - the work isn't.
 
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#10 ·
Thanks, JungleJustice,

Pretty overwhelming for a ******, I'm starting to think!

Maybe for now I'll concentrate on just getting the GTV close to 'perfection'... and use that time to reconsider how I deal with the motor configuration. If I do get crazy and arrive back at the 24v transplant... I'll likely be calling to pick your brain and finding out what services you might be able to provide toward that goal.

Peter
 
#12 ·
Thank You for your response. I am looking to get around $5000.00 us for it with all the extra's, that are also new including, power steering pump, A/C compressor, Flywheel, Clutch, wiring Harness and ECU box, Starter and Headers. I am sure if you separate the accessories they are worth a couple of thousand on thier own. If you have an interest please call me @ 416-727-6243 Mario.
 
#13 ·
Thanks for your message Mario.
The engine sounds great, better than the one I had but it's really way out of my budget.
I'm balancing a rebuild against the cost of a complete engine and so far the rebuild is a lot cheaper, especially as we have very low labour costs here.
Also, I'm really not sure about being able to sell off the extras which are not needed....Alfa Romeo is a rare breed here.
Dave
 
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