[Del]

What I had was the original 007 motor from my 91S. I didn't know the 007 had been replaced by the 008. The Bosch catalogs don't mention that, only that the 007 replaced the 013. I see now that I replaced the 007 in the S with an 008. Will do some searching for the 008 info. Do remember one thing, though about the 008 I used, in that I had to reverse the wiring. Maybe the 008 was just the 007 with reversed rotation.

The online Bosch electric motor catalog says that the 008 motor status is normal, taking that to mean that it is still being manufactured. Maybe their catalog is not up to date if the motor is now unavailable. Doesn't say it has been replaced by anything else. The 189 motor is of the same family, though. There are several listed, but with different wattages, ie, 120, 150, etc. Possible one of these will replace the 007/008, same size anyway.

There are a couple of places on line which do mention the 008 motor:

24/7 Auto Parts - Bosch Sachs Clutches OEM Aftermarket Dorman Anchor

Shopping Cart - Import Parts Specialists, Inc

Doesn't mean they have it though.

 

[Alfisto Steve]

Why did you have to reverse wiring on a 008 motor? I didn't have to reverse the wires and even the wire colors are the same.

 

[Alfisto Steve]

What I had was the original 007 motor from my 91S. I didn't know the 007 had been replaced by the 008. The Bosch catalogs don't mention that, only that the 007 replaced the 013. I see now that I replaced the 007 in the S with an 008. Will do some searching for the 008 info. Do remember one thing, though about the 008 I used, in that I had to reverse the wiring. Maybe the 008 was just the 007 with reversed rotation.

The online Bosch electric motor catalog says that the 008 motor status is normal, taking that to mean that it is still being manufactured. Maybe their catalog is not up to date if the motor is now unavailable. Doesn't say it has been replaced by anything else. The 189 motor is of the same family, though. There are several listed, but with different wattages, ie, 120, 150, etc. Possible one of these will replace the 007/008, same size anyway.

There are a couple of places on line which do mention the 008 motor:

24/7 Auto Parts - Bosch Sachs Clutches OEM Aftermarket Dorman Anchor

Shopping Cart - Import Parts Specialists, Inc

Doesn't mean they have it though.

At this price I bet they have them: HVAC - Motor-Blower
SKU: 244844
Part: 0 130 111 008
Manufacture: SAAB
Saab 9000 Blower Motor W/o Fan

$306.15

 

[Alfissimo Int.]

At this price I bet they have them: HVAC - Motor-Blower
SKU: 244844
Part: 0 130 111 008
Manufacture: SAAB
Saab 9000 Blower Motor W/o Fan

$306.15

motors alone have been on back order for about 6 months now. I finally got some in stock again. $88.00

Fan motor with blade is $286.00

 

[Del]

Don't know why the motor leads had to be reversed, they just did. Yes, the colors are basically the same, but the fan ran backwards with no pressure and caused problems with the in dash speed controls). Reversed the wires to opposing colors and it has been working just fine ever since. In my 91S I now have pink goes to motor green, and green goes to motor black.

Jason, good. Maybe the motor is still being manufactured by Bosch, but out of stock. There is probably a Bosch follow on to the 008 motor, but isn't identified yet.

 

[Alfissimo Int.]

Don't know why the motor leads had to be reversed, they just did. Yes, the colors are basically the same, but the fan ran backwards with no pressure and caused problems with the in dash speed controls). Reversed the wires to opposing colors and it has been working just fine ever since. In my 91S I now have pink goes to motor green, and green goes to motor black.

Jason, good. Maybe the motor is still being manufactured by Bosch, but out of stock. There is probably a Bosch follow on to the 008 motor, but isn't identified yet.

Yes still made by Bosch but Mostly in Brazil. Usually only ones now that are German made are the whole deal.

I find both exactly the same so no big deal to me that is says Germany on it or brazil.

 

[MrT]

I have seen a listing for the 008 motor through NAPA(!) for about $125. Don't know whether it's vapor or real. Didn't check. Apparently no one who reads this thread is desperate for one of these motors, though.

Michael

 

[Del]

Well, the problem is that this motor is very cheaply made and definitely has a built in short lifetime. First the inner bushing that you can't get to starts getting dry and squealing, and then the commutator wears out quickly. If one is inclined to keep one of these cars around for a few years, it would pay to have a new motor on the shelf, because you will need it. I thought the motor could be rebuilt, but the fast wearing commutator kinda screws that.

 

[Alfisto Steve]

Well time for a bump up for your viewing pleasure.

Seems like 008 motors are available again. I suppose heater cores are, too.

 

[Alfisto Steve]

I added some new info about 95 24v engine brake booster plumbing that may have to be removed from back of intake plenum to get more clearance when removing and installing blower motor housing. If so don't loose any of the 4 copper sealing washers that are on the hollow bolt and banjo fitting set up.

Also always test temp door lever for free movement after installing blower housing before hooking up temp stepper motor cable. It helps if you can have temp door lever slighlty open as you install housing back into spring tab locks.

 

[Alfisto Steve]

Bosch blower motors back in stock many places from $59 on Saab site upward to 79 on ebay, etc. Search on Saab 9000. These fit 164 just fine as we have stated in posts above.

 

[Del]

Great. I have one of those in the 91S now, but I'll probably buy another for the 94LS which will probably need it eventually.

 

[Alfisto Steve]

Seems like this post needs to be bumped up again. I wish I could edit it and put it in some better order as we have found many different ways to make job a little easier with such things as removing wiper motor and rack to gain more room to work on getting blower motor housing out.

 

[AlexGS]

Seems like this post needs to be bumped up again. I wish I could edit it and put it in some better order as we have found many different ways to make job a little easier with such things as removing wiper motor and rack to gain more room to work on getting blower motor housing out.

I've also got it down to something of a fine art. I remove firewall (hardest part there is the clutch fluid supply pipe clipped tightly to the firewall, I expect that is for RHD only). I remove the idle air valve and the hose from the oil separator, leaving the hoses attached to the corrugated inlet pipe. The wiper motor comes off - no rack though - so the small steel piece under the centre wiper pivot comes out. Above the a/c evaporator box I found two bolts that can be unscrewed to split the wiper linkage bar. That way, the RH wiper arm and pivot remains in place.

It takes a very long screwdriver to release the tang that secures the fan under the a/c evaporator box. It also takes care and patience to remove the temperature flap control cable.

Finally I remove the heater hoses (very little coolant is lost) and the fan housing comes out sideways (exposed bearing uppermost) quite easily.

I did all this recently to fix the sealing to the fan and check the temperature flaps - their foam was perfect of course, being moulded around the flaps.

-Alex

 

[Alfisto Steve]

How to remove false firewall and blower motor/heater core

I wrote this false firewall removal procedure up yesterday during snow storm for something to do: http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/957429-post74.html

Little long but if false firewall has never been out or you have never done the job it can be a bit of a challenge and those hidden screws (which I never put back) under oil seperator, brake reservoir and throttle body areas do slow you down.

 

[Alfisto Steve]

Adding some pictures of temp lever and cable located between blower motor housing and evaporator. recirculation motor, wiring connector and door location in back of evaporator box under windshield.

 

[oz3litre]

Thanks to the instructions from you guys my brother and I pulled his fan and fixed the broken flap lever with a self tapping screw and araldite. The flaps are now working as they should and the housing is sealed. The problem is that despite having a new compressor and even clamping the heater hose leading from the head, the air at the vents is not cold. The aircon guy says the pressures are fine. I think he replaced the TX valve, but maybe it is faulty, or perhaps he didn't replace it. If the compressor is new, the gas is ER12, the pressures are OK, the flaps and the stepper are working and air is blowing out of the vents, why isn't it cold?

 

[MrT]

Is the air at the vents warm? Is the mixer flap selected to simply provide hot air? Does the temperature of the vent air change when the climate control system is switched between "normal" and "econ" (for which the A/C compressor isn't actuated)? Is the expansion orifice plugged or otherwise broken? (this might be tested by checking whether the return refrigerant line is -cold-).

If the compressed and condensed refrigerant is being moved to the expansion orifice, passes through to evaporate and get cold, and the gas then moves to the compessor inlet, then there should be a very cold return line from the evaporator unit feeding back to the compressor. Just my opinions about stuff....

 

[Alfisto Steve]

Is recirculation circuit working so you can close recirculation door in evaporator box? See pix 4 in my above post which shows door closed.

Is rubber seal on top of false firewall sealing tight against hood (bonnet) when hood closed. Did you install new sealling foam tape on inside of bottom edges of false firewall?

Are you sure you have hot water hose coming from rear of head closed off?

Do you have a good donut seal between evaporator box and blower motor box?

 

[oz3litre]

MrT we will check the lines to test your theory. Where is the expansion orifice? The flaps are on full cold.

Steve, the recirculation door is closed and sealed. The donut seal in the blower was long gone so we wrapped, glued and cable tied a strip of rubber around the outside of the blower where it meets the evaporator. I am hoping this would suffice. We didn't put new foam tape on the bottom of the false firewall because we didn't take it off and the bonnet seal looks OK, but will check the seal. As for the heater hose, at present it is just clamped and I am not sure if it is completely closed off, but it must be close to it at least. The thing I am wondering is; if that hose is blocked with a tap, will there still be some hot water getting into the core via the T-piece under the water bottle? My plan is to fit a 12 volt irrigation solenoid on the line from the head so that it can be switched on and off from inside the car.