Search the forums, there is much information regarding this kind of problem.

 

I assume you have fuel in the tank... !?!

There is an in-line type fuse for the fuel pump. It is located near the FI computer - under the carpeted shelf behind the seats.

Do a search for no-start problems. You'll find that the flywheel sensors can be a weak link. The connectors are in the engine bay under/behind the windshield washer reservoir. There are two sensors (one for rpm, the other for crank position). They are identical but don't mix up the connectors. One has a gray connector, the other black. You can test them with an ohm meter.

Also, the computers must see a certain minimum voltage to go to work. Not sure if that could explain why your Spider quit unless there is an iffy connection somewhere. Clean the battery connections and clean & tighten any ground connections you can find.

Check the air intake path. Look for loose or cracked hoses. I've read that the black plastic intake ducts can develop cracks in the accordian shaped section.

 

maby the inertial switch? the one that cuts off the fuel pump when in a wreck?
cliff

 

I had THIS EXACT THING happen to my '86 Spider...it was a blown fuel pump fuse. That's the 8amp in-line fuse under the package shelf, behind the passenger seat. It's in a red holder, right by the ECU. Just unclip one end, unscrew the holder, and check the fuse. It may well be blown. If blown, replace the fuse and the car should start right up. But then you'll want to check for "what" caused the fuse to blow (bad grounds, bad fuel pump(s), damaged wire, etc).

Like I said, when my fuel pump fuse blew, my car did EXACTLY what yours has done. Good luck!

David

 

I had same experience as David in my 84, although the fuse did not blow, rather the connection failed and fried the fuse holder. It was an easy fix to replace the fuse holder and the fuse.

 

I have 2 '85 spiders one built 10/84 and the other built 2/85
and both have a number of inline fuses of the euro. type with metal fuse material wrapped around either plastic or ceramic core. check all the holders and check for corrosion both on the fuse ends and the inside of the holder. I have found it an easy and more permanent fix to cut out the corroded holder and replace it with a buss type holder and fuse. Glass type fuses are not as suseptable to corrosion as the euro. type. Good luck! I hope it si only a fuse but it could also be a relay problem
Conrad

 

dmickey,

What'd you find out?

David

 

I was able to locate the fuse under the rear tray but it was ok. The previous owner obviously had some grounding issues as all of the ground points in the back have been cleaned and re installed. I ran out of time to look any deeper into the problem - wife says have to get ready to go out of town for the long weekend. I plan on getting into it deeper next week. I appreciate everyones input and I will deffinately keep you posted.

Thanks,

Dave

 

84 No Start

Had same problem. Tried everything. Stay with the simple first instead of going to the hard and expensive.

Mine was the relay behind the passenger seat. It is the same as the power windows so you can switch to see instantly if that is the problem. 5 Prong 30 amp Kragen relay for $5.95

Mike

 

Also have an 84... got bit by the cranking no start about three times, here are the resolutions (in my cases):

1.) Plenum hose had "barely" separated... was very hard to see/notice, had to look real close. Pushed the hose back together (top of the motor) and bingo, started and ran great.

2.) Intertia switch went bad (on mine was rubberized box (about the size of a pack of cigs, somewhat smaller)) located on the firewall, could be seen with the hood up, near top center of firewall... a wire in and a wire out (if I recall correctly, been a while)... I did a hack fix, I removed the box and connected the two wires together, been about 3 years ago.

3.) OK, not really sure what my mechanic did... I had it towed to him... he simply reached into the area near the front right under the hood, stuck his hand down there, tightened "something" up and bingo, fired up and ran great again... I was way too much of a rookie (and yes, dumb) to have asked him what it was he tightened... as I had "just" bought the car and had the PO with me etc... and we were all talking etc... all I know, is that in under 2 mins... I was good to go. To this day I wish I had asked what it was he tightened by hand (or maybe with a tool, I was not paying that close of attention, should have though). Am wondering if he may have reseated the dist. cap? Or a wire attached below.

Anyways, all 3 of these instances had the exact same symptoms, as do other things, but the old "try the simple things first" applies here.

Good luck and please post what the solution was, I know I am curious.

Ron F.
--------

 

Your mechanic prolly just re-seated the ground wire on the starter. It's a standard push on female -to-male on the starter itself, and the female connector loosens up over time - just put a pair of pliers on it, smoosh it ( no more than 4 shmoos ) tighter a little, then push it back on the starter.

jeff

 

Thanks Jeff - makes sense to me.