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1981 Autodelta Turbo Alfetta Sedan - How not to do it

28K views 111 replies 20 participants last post by  buzzed  
#1 · (Edited)
Well, enough people have asked me about the car and/or what I'm doing to it so I might as well answer in one place... The story so far...

This car is my second Turbodelta, the first one having been a John French Turbodelta Alfetta GTV I owned in the early 90s.

Some years ago I saw Gulsons advertising a sedan, which was intriguing. I bought it sight unseen (I'm in Brisbane, car was in Canberra). Aparently it was fitted with the turodelta "kit" by Lorenso Montresor of Alfa Australia in 1982. It also had a bit of doco on when it was owned by Peter Dowling (well known Canberra alfa mechanic) which was encouraging. I drove it for a couple of years as a not-quite daily driver, but to be honest I was a bit disappointed with the car. It had a few non-autodelta bits and was a bit more tired than I had expected. Anyway, I decided to go ahead and try to freshen it up a bit mechanically, and to overcome one of the main problems with these cars - they don't like hot weather at all due to lack of an intercooler and the blow through carb setup.

When the engine was pulled down it didn't seem too bad - liners were not worn, it was fitted with forged Arias low comp pistons, which was a nice surprise (had expected just the turbodelta kit). On the other hand it didn't have the turbodelta liners and cooper-rings. Another thing that discouraged messing with the liners etc was that the pistons were oversize - 86mm bore.

Anyway, had the head rebuilt and everything balanced, rebuilt the transaxle, fitted an intercooler. When I bought the car it already had a Garrett T3 turbo fitted rather than the original K26. However the turbo was in a bad way so I had it "rebuilt". In the hope of preventing it becoming so breathless at high revs and to improve efficiency as wall (in the hope of bringing down inlet temp more than anything) I had it rebuilt with a T04 .60 compressor while retaining the .48 A/R T3 turbine housing (actually, as it turned out this was cracked so ended up being replaced as well - bit of a grandfathers axe rebuild...). Not sure what any of you turbo gurus will think of that combo - but it seemed to work acceptably well. I don't have/can't remember compressor trim - I basically relied on the guys building it to know what they were doing...

To make the frontmount intercooler plumbing tidy I had the autodelta plenum modified to feed from the front rather than the side (the side feed having been being from a cross-pipe over the engine).

Also had a dizzy made up with vac advance/boost retard and a decent ignition module and coil as from previous experience with the GTV this helped a lot with driveability/responsiveness.

Anyway, put this lot back together and it ran ok - but chewed oil/produced smoke. It had gapless rings fitted and was running rich so hoped a decent tune might make it bed in - no such luck (went pretty well after the tune though!).

I put up with this for a while then pulled it down again. Found some probs with valve seals, also suspected the turbo oil return and tweaked that. Found a machine shop who were confident they could machine some used std liners to 86mm and had that done. Put it back together and it was worse. Drove it normally aspirated on a leaner tune for a while to try to get rings to bed in. No good. Sent it to someone who knew how to build an engine but was busy. Got busy with other projects myself (not car ones). Got rebuilt engine back, now with rods pistons modified for better oil scraping/return but basically - nothing terrible had been found. When I finally had the time to put it in and run it - guess what - it still burnt oil. At least this time the build had a warranty (1 supplier, and a good bloke) so back it went. The engine builder found the liners were not staying round and concluded 86mm and turbo was doomed. So went shopping for pistons and liners - this was a very slow process as there was no way I was going to do anything less than bomb proof after the hassles to date. Custom forged pistons were easy, but good liners not so easy. Eventually found a set of NOS turbodelta liners! But couldn't find cooper-rings to go with it. By this time the original engine builder had retired due to health probs and someone else was sorting out unfinished business like my engine. He was confident he could get the liners to work/get a gasket etc sorted. Waited a long time to get engine dumped on my doorstep while I was out. Put it in, felt really stiff - phoned engine builder - nah - should be fine - start her up. Did so and seized...

Pulled head and found pistons seemed to be wedged in bore, gouge marks at top of bore, pulled sump and found rods in backwards (offset rods on 2L nord).....

Also found solution to turbo liners had been to machine off the protrusion on the liners that retains the cooper ring. Was slightly surprised (and disappointed that there wasn't even a groove or o-ring used).

By this stage I didn't even want to look at the car so left it for a while...

Eventually had liners checked to see if they could be salvaged, rods and pistons checked too - rods and pistons ok but nobody confident that the liners could be cleaned up.

Spent a long time looking for liners, couldn't find any (I'm thinking there must be a market for some decent 2L liners if someone wants to get a reasonable batch made) so gave up and bough stock piston/liner set.. HAd the liners measured up to find out of roundness spec - which from past experience wasn't something I was prepared to risk so returned them. Despite earlier advice that the turbo liners were not recoverable got them cleaned up anywy and checked. They were ok! Got them o-ringed as well.

I just started putting the engine together before xmas (plan was to just refit pistons and liners - everything else should have been ok from prev rebuild - right?). Checked liner protrusion and found the liners are about 10 thou shorter than the block! Swore a bit. Decided if that was wrong anything/everything else could be so I'm going to give it back to a pro to check everything and reassemble (and come up with a fix for the short liner problem....).

Anyway that gives me time to do something about the body which over the years has become pretty sad - needs some rust (not much) removed and the paint is badly oxidised. I'm going to leave all that to the professionals beyond stripping parts off it. But if anyone in Brisbane has some rust free rear doors or some straight bumpers I'd be interested.... I've had a couple of suggestions for body shops but I'd be interested in other opinions. Not looking for (and can't afford) "show car" levels of finish - but need someone with a clue about these cars that can do a competent job of getting the rust out etc.

The car is going to be a fun car for the odd weekend of whatever (be it road or track) but won't be set up as a race car. I've contemplated to fitting a cage but it looks to be impossible to do anything compliant that doesn't make the car into a 2 seater, which rather destroys the point of the sedan... On the other hand, I'm reluctant do get too enthusiastic in this thing without one...

Anyhoo - enough words - the following posts will be a bit more pictorial...
 
#2 ·
Old Doco/Pics

Here is a bit of info on the car in a mag article from 1990 when the car was owned by Peter Dowling. Also a doc "ligitimising" the conversion (not sure Qld Transport will be interested) and show and shine blurb from another previous owner.

Note that (from the article) at that time the car had already been fitted with the Garrett turbo and (according to the wording) had some "special pistons and sleeves" fitted by Peter. I assume these were the Arias forgies (I don't believe it was rebuilt beyond a valve job and a turbo rebuild after that and before I go it.
 

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#3 · (Edited)
And here are some pics of the current state....

The collection of fuel system components (surge tank and pumps) might seem weird for a carb setup but I needed to replace the pump anyway and I want to make sure that there is no way I will ever get fuel starvation and burnt pistons/valves (and if Jims persistent needling to fit Motec ever gets to me I'll be ready!).

Oh - the crappy fuel filter you can see in the engine bay (near the malpassi regulator) is the highly sophisticated vacuum line to dizzy damper to stop the advance dancing around like a mad thing at (wont) idle...
 

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#4 ·
More bits...

Someone asked me about turbo oil feed connection - see pic...

Engine out on stand (custom mount cost nothing from offcuts bin but a fair bit in angle grinder blades...)

Nice liner with oring (shame its too short!!!!!)

Measuring "negative protrusion" if there is such a thing.... Actually - I just needed to check if the engine was level :)
 

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#5 ·
good luck with your project!
look forward to updateds.
could you put up a pic of the vac advance/retard dizzy?
 
#9 ·
Well - you can see it on the front of the engine in the pics on the stand. Its a hacked about Bosch grafted onto the shaft from original dizzy. Various places could do something similar.

(btw theres something missing after your dizzy sentence..)
Thanks. Edited....


i havent decided about intercooling mine but maybe i should, just to be safe..

did you end up getting the car dynoed at any time?
I think the intercooler is probably worth doing. Certainly you can't push the things in the heat without one. Depending on how/why replica you want to go of course - it will mess up any chance of historic rally etc because its not what was on the original car.

It has been dynoed but I really didn't pay much attention to the figures (tuning runs) and I don't have a baseline to compare to either.

forgot to ask you if the engine bay has any cutouts on the lower inner guards for the hot air to escape?
did you bother to shield the airfilter from hot air or do you think it would suck cold air anyway being upfront - once the car is moving?

i noticed a brakes line running very close to the exhaust on the passenger inner guard/firewall area on my car. is yours shielded or wrapped or perhaps even relocated?
There is a heat shield (the same one in the last magazine pic I posted) that shields the filter a bit, especially given that there are vents in the guards and the louvred bonnet. You can see the guard/wheel arch vent in the same mag pic. The brake line has been run out through that same vent (pretty much straight across from the master cylinder).
 
#6 ·
I remember seeing that car when the owner took it down to Auto Italia maybe 10 years ago. I spoke to him, he was tyring to sell it there and said if he had no luck he was taking it to Ray Gulson, he was a country boy. Only in the last few years they have grown on me, and now i wish i bought it off the bloke.

Good luck.

Cheers Dave
 
#7 ·
Darryl,

im gonna have to re-read your engine saga again another time, it makes my head spin..:eek: what a bloody nightmare...
(btw theres something missing after your dizzy sentence..)

i havent decided about intercooling mine but maybe i should, just to be safe..

did you end up getting the car dynoed at any time?

more photos of the whole car ?;)
 
#8 ·
forgot to ask you if the engine bay has any cutouts on the lower inner guards for the hot air to escape?
did you bother to shield the airfilter from hot air or do you think it would suck cold air anyway being upfront - once the car is moving?

i noticed a brakes line running very close to the exhaust on the passenger inner guard/firewall area on my car. is yours shielded or wrapped or perhaps even relocated?

btw since you know alot more than I about liners in a turbo environment, perhaps you can have a quick look at my replica thread and add your 2 cents on what sort of liners etc i;ve got -are they stock?

thnx and good luck!
 
#10 ·
. . . The engine builder found the liners were not staying round and concluded 86mm and turbo was doomed.
Do you recall how he came to this conclusion? The roundness can't be measured in situ so this must of been surmised (linearly elastic)? Or was there yielding of the liners (permanent deformation) that was measured on disassembly?

Quite the long and arduous journey but an enjoyable and informative read nonetheless.

Thanks.
 
#12 ·
Glad someones enjoying the saga :)
I'm "enjoying" as well - if only to know that I'm not the only one who's repaired something major (Driveline/Spica pump/Starter/Alternator,etc) only to have to re-do it shortly thereafter! Maybe it's a red sedan curse?
 
#14 ·
Hi Storm,
progress kinda stopped for a while but things are starting to move again.

Measured up the liners - they are about 15 thou too short. The plan is to get a spacer made up this thickness to put between the bottom face of the liners and the block. Anyone tried anything like this? Hopefully can get it to work like a gasket of sorts and it (plus the epoxy) should seal ok.

I've also been messing with the cosmetic side of things. I bought a front bumper off an older alfetta in the hope of adapting it as I'm not a big fan of the square 80s bumper, and anyway, the old bumper is thinner and should provide better air flow to the intercooler - or thats my practical excuse for it anyway...

I had hoped that the front profile wouldn't have been much different - but as you can see in the pics below, I had to remove a lot out of the centre of the bumper to fit it. In the pic I'd already removed a lot of material from the sides (that I had expected as the old alfetta is narrower).

Anyway its done now (needs a bit of finishing). I need to do something reasonable looking for indicators. I'm hoping I can find a thin "strip" LED lamp that will fit in the recess in the bumper and look like it belongs there...

I don't have anything for the back yet. Hopefully finding something suitable shouldn't be too hard as it is straight. Anyone care to measure a steel bumper Alfetta GTV bumper for me - (inside corner to corner)? Or suggest something else that might fit?
 

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#15 · (Edited)
Would it not be cheaper and easier to find an old 2 liter block and throw your stuff into it. I would think that there would be less chance of hurting your good components and of course having to remove the engine once you find out that the liner spacers don't work. (Not that it won't work)
If I get a chance I'll measure the rear bumper on my car. It's from a 79 Alfetta GT That I trimmed just a little bit on the inside corners to fit the body line more closely .

Paul
 

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#16 ·
Would it not be cheaper and easier to find an old 2 liter block and throw your stuff into it.
Paul
Hi Paul,
The thing is, there is nothing wrong with the block - it is the liners that are too short due to some inept modification by someone I shouldn't have let near them (I didn't know he was going to modify them at all). I don't think the liners with a spacer are going to be worse than a stock set of liners (especially as I had to return one set of new stock liners because they were out of round) which will set me back around $1000, and anything else is big $ (custom liners or a mono-sleeve). If anyone has a secret stash of quality liners going cheap, or a centrifugal casting foundry and machine shop in their back yard, I'm interested!

And thanks for the pic - The bumper looks good on your car. Measurements would be cool but just knowing its a bit tight on the smaller version gives me a fair idea - I should probably try to find something a bit wider.

Darryl.
 
#18 ·
Thanks for the heads-up on the 1.8 bumper Martin.

Progress (if you call it that) is that I've checked clearances and it looks like shaving the block will be ok clearance wise (and be less risky than spacing the liners). Might take a bit of the pistons anyway to keep compression ratio where we want it.
 
#19 ·
hay darryl was your oil dip stick on intake or exhaust side standard ?

mine is on exhaust side and is hitting on the turbo manifold. has anyone before drilled it out for the other side ?

also do you reckon i could run the turbo oil drain down the dip stick hole on the exhaust side ?
 
#20 ·
storm can u start a thread on ur project??
i would like to see some pics :)
 
#21 ·
ha ha yea i want to start a thread but i am really lazy at going to my m8s house where car is stored and taking some photos. I might try to get some this weekend.

i will clean the motor put it on the engine stand bolt up the carbs and plenum also manifold and turbo. Even intercooler pipes and intercooler
 
#22 ·
Storm, the dip stick is moved to the dizzy side on mine. So far as the oil drain goes - I am a bit paranoid about these things - I wanted a straight free flowing drain so I got it put it where it needed to go and a decent diameter - not an expert but I wouldn't recommend the dip stick approach.
 
#25 ·
dipstick hole would be ok for roller bearing, NOK for plain bearing turbo. I agree, drill it where you need it.

Cool thread, about time I got to read someone elses hard work :)....sorry to here it's been REALLY 'hard' work! You would have been better off to build the engine yourself...never trust anyone else I've decided. The so called 'experts' can bethe worst as they are arragant enough to call themselves this...

Liners you can get from Vin Sharp in the form of mono liners, they would be the best option, I think they are about 3k?. No block machining required and a substantially strength improvement over stock. If engine is apprat, install piston oil squirters as well. Don't forget a big arse oil cooler, oil temps skyrocket with turbo abuse in the 2l.
 
#26 ·
how hard is the oil squiters to install? i just seen a pic of one off a 164 installed on a 1.8 turbo.Im having a hard time even trying to get my head off. It seems to be seized on so i let the WD-40 soak for a few days before i try again.

i have a 19 row oil cooler here (just painted it at work in metalic black and %10 matt clear finish) i hope its big enough.

Im not sure when or if i will even start up a thread on my build. I sure need all the info/feedback i can get tho.
 
#28 · (Edited)
just dug up a pic to go with the previous comment. See on the far side of the engine block the large threaded hole? thats my oil line tap point. I just drilled and tapped it on a mill. Seems to work fine. I avoided the stiffening beams in the block ecen though they would have given a thicker web, as I was worried about impacting their strength adversly. The bogger the better, but measure your oil dump on outlet on the turbo and match to that.

Note that I set the hight nice and high on the block, since it gravity feeds, I wanted to ensure drainage when cornering etc, probably could be lower I guess, but lined up well with where the turbo sat. Don't forget to heat shield the line or use braided line, as it gets VERY hot down there. Sheild your alternator while you are at it. So far this setup seems to work very well touch wood.

One final word of wisdom, cleanliness is next to godliness, dip all components for cleaning, then paint the block silver to avoid the lovely oil stains. Painting inside of block may be over kill, but in theory gets the oil back to the block quicker, and there's no denying it looks the goods (ps not ordinary paint either, from elec motor housings).
 

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#29 ·
In 1981 I had an Alfetta Sports Sedan turboed with the Lotus Turbo set up.

That is blowing through two twin chock Dellortos.

It needed a large oil drain to the sump--much bigger than the dip stick receiver.

Quick car in its day.:D