Alfa Romeo Forums banner
21 - 31 of 31 Posts
I hand made one like it with three holes from a ruined 40DCOE2 body that had good progression holes. I then used this jig to modify some 40 and 45 DCOE's. Sometimes it worked well, other times not so well. With the cost of vintage Webers what it is, I no longer modify the progression holes. If changing sizes and notching plates (if required) won't do it, I find a better Weber for the application.
 
I had this modification done by John over at Costa Mesa R&D.

I think it modification got rid of this stumble in the progression circuit.....BUT now the carburetors have a strange squeek, yes squeek that they make. I am not sure what is causing it but as the car sits there idling, each of the carburetor tracts constantly squeek as the engine draws its intake pulse. squeek squeek squeek squeek ever engine cycle!

Can anyone tell me what the hell is going on?

Also my synch is off within the same carburetor, meaning that when I put my synchrometer on the two different horns of the same carburetor, one flows slightly more than the other. I made sure the bypass screws are closed and everything was snug.

I did discover a small leak around the rubber isolator of the intake tract which flows higher, I am going to fox this air leak this weekend but I suspect the problems are not related. I hope this is not a workmanship issue, perhaps the hole on this tract was drilled incorrectly compared to the other ones?

Any input would be appreciated.
 
I had this modification done by John over at Costa Mesa R&D.

I think it modification got rid of this stumble in the progression circuit.....BUT now the carburetors have a strange squeek, yes squeek that they make. I am not sure what is causing it but as the car sits there idling, each of the carburetor tracts constantly squeek as the engine draws its intake pulse. squeek squeek squeek squeek ever engine cycle!

Can anyone tell me what the hell is going on?

Also my synch is off within the same carburetor, meaning that when I put my synchrometer on the two different horns of the same carburetor, one flows slightly more than the other. I made sure the bypass screws are closed and everything was snug.

I did discover a small leak around the rubber isolator of the intake tract which flows higher, I am going to fox this air leak this weekend but I suspect the problems are not related. I hope this is not a workmanship issue, perhaps the hole on this tract was drilled incorrectly compared to the other ones?

Any input would be appreciated.
The squeak sounds like an air leak at the gasket between the rubber mount & the carb. I use 'Wellseal' with the gasket (it's not affected by petrol, unlike some sealants)
Difference in flow between barrels of the same carb sounds like a twisted butterfly shaft to me.
 
The butterfly plates could also be slightly out of adjustment. You need to remove the carb to fix. Inspect by looking at the engine side of the carb with a bright light on the other side - both butterfly plates should be fully seated with NO light showing. Often one plate is slightly out of place and some light shows thru.

With the intake side facing down, slightly loosen the two screws in each plate. Wiggle the throttle shaft a bit - you should see one of the plates shift a bit and seal all the way around.

Robert
 
Before taking out my carbs I took a few pictures of my modified progression holes. These were done by John at Costa Mesa R&D.

Front carb:
Image

Image

Rear carb
Image
Image


Seems to me that holes are located differently on one carb compared to another.
 
You can see where the notches need to be! The whistle should disaapear.
 
No question at all - this is the solution for the 152s. I have spent quite a bit of time staring at them but not going ahead to drill the progression hole because I wasn't sure how large to make it or exactly where to put it.

But before going ahead with this I have one question. Is placing the hole so it is in the correct relation to the throttle plate with the throttle *completely* closed really correct? How, then, does one adjust idle speed? If it were necessary to crack open the throttle plates just a bit, it would seem we would be at risk of partially uncovering the progression hole.

The only obvious answer I can come up with is that because we have the air bleed screws on the 152s we can open them to move the throttle plates toward the closed position for a given idle speed. Thus, the concept would be to use the fully closed position for the throttle plate at idle and open the air bleeds a bit if the motor needs more air. Does this jibe with your experience?
It is my understanding and indeed experience that DCOE idle should never be adjusted with the throttle plates, they should be set at 1/2 turn in from screw contact and not touched again, idle is then adjusted with the slow running screws, Andrew
 
Progression hole drilling

I had a pair of 45 DCOE 152s that needed a new progression hole. I sent them to John at Costa Mesa R&D per the advice on this forum. Called him every few weeks for 6 months. Finally he said "I'll have them next week". Drove all the way down there to pick them up and he said "no charge because it took so long". After the got home I took out the screws to have a look and...no new progression holes!

I've found another place that will do it...Jorge at European Motorworks in Hawthorne. Had them done in a few days. And much closer for me.
 
21 - 31 of 31 Posts