I don't know how to get it open now but when you do there is a way to tie a rope to the release so when it happens again you can use the rope to get the hood open.

 

Go from underneath. It can be done on an '85. Best if you can get it up on a lift, and if you have a mechanic who has one of those video scopes on a gooseneck. But even without that, It is possible to see the latch using lots of light and maybe a mirror, but you'll want to have some maneuverability.

Tim

 

so to avoid this pain in the rear, i tie a cable to the release and run it where? did you tape yours up?

 

I got a bicycle brake cable w/sleeve and some cable crimps, tied it in and sent it out into the left wheelwell with a keyring loop on the end. (mine happened to have a hole with arubber flap where the firewall, wheelwell and fender all meet under there)

In the event the regular cable breaks, all I need to do is trun the front wheels, reach in and pull the loop.

 

Got a pic. I know alfahopper has a pic with the rope. Maybe he'll chime in also.

 

Gimme a couple minutes to go take some.

 

M'kay, here ya go.

Under the hood the emergency cable sleeve runs parallel to and is zip tied to the regular release cable. Just a loop on the hood latch end to pull the release arm.

Under the fender (picture is taken kinda ground up looking into the upper back corner of the wheelwell) I came through with a cable adjuster as found on the same bicycle brake cable acting as a holder slash grommet, then the crimped loop and keyring.

The rubber flap was there already as part of the bodywork, so I just slip the keyring over it to stop it flopping around.

(and I'll be dealing with that rust around the clutch slave cylinder in a day or two, thanks )

 

Thanks for these pictures. In the underhood picture, where is the emergency cable attached to the release itself? Thanks Again.

 

My cable broke a couple of weeks ago. Just as the hood popped open I felt it snap. Talk about a stroke of good luck! When I repaired it I ran a backup through the hole in the wheel well that the wires go through to the side marker light, similar to Tifosi's setup.

 

It's always a good idea to run a back-up cable for the trunk as well

 

the cable broke on my 74 a coupla months ago. fortunatly inside, not under the hood. I had a spare ready to put on sitting on the bench for a year.

REPLACE THOSE CABLES NOW!!!!

it isnt that big a deal to change them, unless they break under the hood.
cliff

 

I fasten some heavy duty weed eater nylon cord (had some laying around)from the hood latch thru the firewall to a spot just above the heater. Works fine.

 

One of the first things I did when I got my '71 was run a wire out thru the driver side wheel well. I also ran a wire from the trunk latch to behind the lisense plate. Both have solid rings on the end. I haven't needed either but I am certain that I will someday and that I will be forever grateful to the forum contibutors who pointed that this could be a real issue.

 

Tifosi - how did you connect that sleeve so neatly to the release?

 

I'll try to shoot a picture up close of the attachment to the latch if that's what you're asking. (pitchur am way more better than wordeses for that )

 

Thanks so much

 

See if this does ya justice.

Rigged as described, about the only way the emergency cable can come off in the event of a main cable failure is if the cable lock bolt and the free end of the factory cable both shear off flush with the pivot pin, (ain't gonna happen IMO), and it just happens to lay in there nice and neat.

 

Thanks a million. I am going to try and install on my cars ASAP.

I actually had the hood release cable break on my GTV. Fortunately it was at the lever under the dash and was not a big problem.

Dimitri

 

Very nice. Thank you so much! Right now mine is a little sloppy, but I intend to go to a bike shop and do it right.

 

Oh joy, oh joy. Turns out the cable was just loose. Pushing down on the hood and pulling the cable end from inside poped the hood.

 

Coolness.

Now quick, put an emergency release of some type or another on it while it's open

 

Misery Returns

Hood stuck shut again. Same drill, press and release on hood over latch mechanism while yanking on loose cable with plyers and hood eventually pops open. Cable is tight on latching mechanism, mechanism moves rotating barbed pin that enters hood. Any suggestions? Noticed small pin about 1/16" in dia. protruding into latch hole in hood. This supposed to be there?

 

IIRC, that pin is what actually gets engaged by the latch mechanism. (it's a sort of hairpin type affair)

When you pull the lever and actuate the release, it rotates the latch pin which in turn springs back that pin and releases the hood.

Any reason to believe your hood and latch alingment are off significantly or that the little screw in bumper thingies along the edges are set wrong?

 

Hood Release

Hmmmm...should be in adjustment and no evidence of anything moving out of position. Went back to look again and noticed that there are 2 pins, or 1 hair pin shaped deal. With the hood proped open, the one toward the engine appears to be broken. The passanger side of that bottom pin was wedged down in the bottom of the circumfrence of the hole and the top one still extends fully across the hole. I'm thinking remove the bottom pin, or both broken halves, and leave the top one in place and be real careful lowering the hood. Suggestions? Thanks.

 

That might bring it, but you'll have to pull the hood plate off to be sure.

As to what to replace it with beyond a new mechanism, if you can find it, I ain't gotta clue.

 

Installed new cable and a back up. Hood release lever needs 2 pulls to open , but it works...for now. Thanks for all the suggestions and pics.

 

and dont forget gentlemen, the usefulness of a yearly lubricant bath of the mechanism to ease the cable in its job. (hood and trunk and levers)

 

I've said it before, but also lube the cables themselves as well as the mechanism. You can get a cable luber for $5 at your local motorcycle shop. Use it to inject a good spray lubricant along the cable (not WD40 - something thicker. TriFlow was recommended and has worked well for me).