[davbert]

pics.... for those that was asking

 

[kengta]

And pictures of the third cast part that I have available as a raw casting. Alloy is Tenzalloy as I can not easily get A356 heat treated to T6 these days.

I have patterns from original pieces for the other two pieces only but no castings.

Ken

 

[Dave Anderson]

Slider Delrin Inserts

Does anyone recall a thread that showed a photo of a bronze slider with milled slots and white delrin inserts put in it? I need to figure out how wide they were (deep would be good to know too).

My block is worn and rattles when I push the back of the car from side to side. I like the idea of using delrin because of its lubrication properties, but do not want a white slider under the car.

Thanks

 

[kengta]

Does anyone recall a thread that showed a photo of a bronze slider with milled slots and white delrin inserts put in it? I need to figure out how wide they were (deep would be good to know too).

My block is worn and rattles when I push the back of the car from side to side. I like the idea of using delrin because of its lubrication properties, but do not want a white slider under the car.

Thanks

I have not seen it done but you might concider putting in round cylindrical inserts. several on each side. likely easier than other shapes.

FWIW

Ken

 

[60sRacer]

It's easy enough to mill a rectangular recess in each side of the sliding block, and cut a block of delrin or UHMW to fit. Only need a small screw to retain it for assembly. We were using delrin inserts in our GTA in 1968. Lots easier than greasing every pit stop. Makes it actually useful on a street car. Still a high wear item, so make a bunch of the inserts.

However, the unibal bearings of a modern Watts link are even better, just not homologated for many racing groups.

Robert

 

[prosalvage]

hi where can i buy this sliding block that has been remanufactered thanks .

 

[prosalvage]

hi ken can i buy one of your castings please thanks

 

[bianchi2]

dave anderson, interstate plastic carry ' black' derlin, and teflon..

 

[aguirola]

It's easy enough to mill a rectangular recess in each side of the sliding block, and cut a block of delrin or UHMW to fit. Only need a small screw to retain it for assembly. We were using delrin inserts in our GTA in 1968. Lots easier than greasing every pit stop. Makes it actually useful on a street car. Still a high wear item, so make a bunch of the inserts.

However, the unibal bearings of a modern Watts link are even better, just not homologated for many racing groups.

Robert

Can you kindly post a photo of the Delrin inserts? How to?
Thank you.
Regards, Alberto

 

[Alleggerita]

Finally got around to this.

Sliding block slightly clearanced, eg reduced in thickness. Slots milled in. Delrin inserts stand slightly proud of block originally, eg slight interference fit. No screws necessary.

Grease as per usual and once in a while replace Delrin inserts.

Can you kindly post a photo of the Delrin inserts? How to?
Thank you.
Regards, Alberto

 

[aguirola]

Finally got around to this.

Sliding block slightly clearanced, eg reduced in thickness. Slots milled in. Delrin inserts stand slightly proud of block originally, eg slight interference fit. No screws necessary.

Grease as per usual and once in a while replace Delrin inserts.

Cool! Thank you very much.
Do the slots go from side to side?
Pardon my naivete but, although I assume the metal to metal friction is alleviated by this procedure, what is the bottom line? As I have never greased the block due to never having used it, wouldn't the grease simply make two lines on the delrin contact area and not be of use anymore?

Regards, Alberto

 

[aguirola]

Does anyone recall a thread that showed a photo of a bronze slider with milled slots and white delrin inserts put in it? I need to figure out how wide they were (deep would be good to know too).

My block is worn and rattles when I push the back of the car from side to side. I like the idea of using delrin because of its lubrication properties, but do not want a white slider under the car.

Thanks

Would a black Teflon piece, work instead of the 'old bronze' system?

Regards, Alberto

 

[Alleggerita]

I had a Teflon piece in my sliding block specifically designed for that purpose by a BASF materials engineer for a previous owner that I used in the first vintage race in the car sometime back in 1985. Guess what! It came apart and left we with a severely clunking and wobbling rear end. Scared the hell out of me ....

Thus, I would not use anything but a bronze block!

A bit of rattle is better than too tight which is likely to seize. Probably you could just cut the grooves for the Delrin and run your block as is without any additional clearancing. Alternatively, machine a new bronze block.

The slots go on each thrust side (top and bottom) from front to rear. It benefits from the addition of the grease ...

 

[aguirola]

I had a Teflon piece in my sliding block specifically designed for that purpose by a BASF materials engineer for a previous owner that I used in the first vintage race in the car sometime back in 1985. Guess what! It came apart and left we with a severely clunking and wobbling rear end. Scared the hell out of me ....

Thus, I would not use anything but a bronze block!

A bit of rattle is better than too tight which is likely to seize. Probably you could just cut the grooves for the Delrin and run your block as is without any additional clearancing. Alternatively, machine a new bronze block.

The slots go on each thrust side (top and bottom) from front to rear. It benefits from the addition of the grease ...

Got it!
Thank you.
Regards,
Alberto

 

[60sRacer]

The bronze wore fast "in the day". Needs lots of grease, sometimes during a race. Teflon inserts mostly helps the grease last; replace every race - they REALLY wear. The big GTA diff bottom section helps keep the diff a bit cooler, which helps the grease and teflon last.

R

 

[scole]

I do not have my car at the house but the inserts in mine are not bronze but like a very hard brake material. No greasing this and it has worked wonderfully for the last 2 years...until one of the bolts holding the material on came loose and restricted the upward movement of the diff. Well, can you say immmediate and unpredicted spinning! The second time in the same corner I ripped the R front tie rod end out and left for home to find out later what was going on. Moral to the story, these are not track rods or watts links with heim joints! Check them often!!

 

[South Africa]

Alleggerita,

Thank you for the effort you have made to get that information to us!

I machined my block from 30mm to about 29,4 mm and got clearance all along the slides - my slides do not appear to be 100% parallel. What thickness do you have the bronze block at?

 

[60sRacer]

When I raced with the sliding block, I found it really needed to be cleaned, greased, and reassembled every race. For long races, it needed grease in the sliding frame anytime the car came in. Any failure or grabbing of the slider would put the car in the fences!

Robert

 

[SFoggy]

I came up with a straightforward way to modify the arms of my 72 Race car for solid bearings...
I could search those up and post the parts lists and drawings for the parts to be made...

My own attempt at a center/upper trailing arm is without the body cross bar, but a moderately gusseted body mount and then panhard rod for centering.

please state specific interest here or via pm.
Steve

 

[jg1053]

SFoggy,
Please post your adaptations, as I was having the same thoughts. No one sells a panhard rod conversion kit.
Jim