The quickest and cheapest weight saving measure is to scrape off all the sound deadening material off the floors ect.
Yes, the aluminium Milano/75 front calipers bolt straight on to the early 1600 front uprights.

 

Depends on what you mean by early 1600 front uprights. My '67 GTV came with the same spindles, or uprights, as found on 1966 GTs. In order to put on the Brembos, I had to replace them with later spindles, which I got from Alfaholics. Installation also involves a minor bit of grinding on the dust shield.

Also, I used vented rotors on custom-made hats. I believe you can get them from Coleman Racing. You can also use Montreal rotors, but I understand they are expensive. Perhaps Blue Flame will elaborate on what he knows about other rotors, vented or otherwise, that will bolt on.

 

Hi mate

A project something close to my heart and one I would also one day like to do. However, in the meantime the advice below is good, especially the comments re scraping off the sound-deadner for getting rid of weight.

Gary mentioned Alfaholics. Really sound advice. Check out their website since Max and his father have to my mind perfected the art of making a GTA replica. The huge range of parts that they have so that your car can look and go like, if not possibly even better than a real GTA is impressive. However, while you are at it, also check out Classic Alfa (Richard Banks) since some of his prices in comparison seem to be a little better. There undoubtdly are also good parts suppliers in europe as well as probably the normal ones in the US. THere are many such threads on the Alfabb re this, especially re restos of GTs GTvs.

The key to Max Banks transformation of his humble GT1300 into a GTA replica was though the use of a 75 Twin spark motor.

Have fun with the project. Cheers Dave

 

Alfaholics = Richard and Max Banks, father and son. Former has been dealing with Alfas for decades. I agree, they have impressive go fast parts. Both are great to deal with.

Classic Alfas = Richard Norris. Only dealt with him once, when he was with Alfaholics, but he was also nice to work with.

 

I'd better clarify. The 75/ Milano calipers bolt on to the ATE fitted spindles fitted to the 1300 and 1600 cars (in OZ earlier than the 1750-2000 cars). They do not fit the Dunlop brake fitted spindles.
This gives you a 2000 sized pad in a light caliper. An inexpensive upgrade using OE parts for a road/tack car. Plenty of good pads to choose from.
For serious go fast brakes look at the Alfaholics and Classic Alfa sites. They both offer well sorted parts and kits.
Remember though, less weight means better brakes, and HP.

 

I'd better clarify. The 75/ Milano calipers bolt on to the ATE fitted spindles fitted to the 1300 and 1600 cars (in OZ earlier than the 1750-2000 cars). They do not fit the Dunlop brake fitted spindles.

There were also two spindles for 1967 ATE-braked GTs. My 1600cc Giulia GT Sprint Veloce came with earlier spindles and ATE brakes from the factory. I got the car from the original owner and have all his documentation and service records.

As for how to tell the difference, I can't remember, except that the Brembos wouldn't fit. I thought I was completely inept mechanically, instead of only mildly inept, until a friend pointed out the spindle problem.

 

How much weight can be saved by using aluminium panels?

 

Yves, I would have thought you could make quite a considerable saving in body weight by using aluminium panels. I am not 100% certain but as I recall from the Alfaholics site, they have available aluminium door skins, boot lids and bonnets? I might be not quite correct so don't quote me. Best to get in touch directly with Max or his Father via the Alfaholics website. I am not sure if they have available aluminium front and rear guards (fenders for our US friends), but if they do again further weight savings could be made.

The other thing to consider are the windows since, I would think you probably could use Lexon side windows and rear window if the car was say for track purposes. Also, if ones car was for track purposes only, I would remove the rear seat.

Any saving in weight means a lighter and faster car on the track.

 

Super1600,

I once heard that, using aluminium panels you save less than half the weight of the original doors... Another concern is the cost!

Maybe Max can shed some light on this?

 

Yves

You are correct on both accounts. Best check out both the Alfaholics and Classic Alfa websites for complete details suffice to say the range of panels, trim, mechanicals, electrical parts etc is enormous, and quality very good. But some stuff is very pricy. I guess it depends on what you desire and the depth of your bank account. Alfaholics have probably the best choice of GTA replica parts and race parts available. I found postage times to be reasonable and the time to send out from the UK to Australia perfectly fine. I have dealt with Richard Banks at Classic Alfa, he is really helpful. But I will certainly be dealing with Max for some of my other needs.

To give you an idea of pannels availability all in aluminium and costs (in UK pounds) see below:

Bootlid (skin and frame) - 425, 2.5kg, steel boot lid costs 100 more
GTA front wing (guard) - 995
GTA rear wing (guard) - 995
Front valance - 625
rear valance - 345
door skin - 135
splash panels (front wing - front and rear) 31 and 25 respectively
New thinner 4.4mm windscreen (3kg lighter) - 275
Lexan side windows (complete set) - 150
Perspex rear window - 150

I have already bought a couple of rust repair sections (bottom of front guard/cill sections) which are excellent quality, plus heaps of rubber parts, some trims, new headlining, lights etc for my Giulia Super and 1750 GTV. Have plenty more to get for the GTV as I am only starting on this project.

Good luck with what ever it is you are after for yours. Cheers Dave

 

Yves


Good luck with what ever it is you are after for yours. Cheers Dave

Hi Dave,

Thank you very much for your quick reply! The Problem is, I don't know, another GTV in GTA form? Or should I slightly optimise my 1750.... I have enough time during winter, to think about it

cheers Yves

 

my question was meant to be a bit more scientific. The original purpose of the gta was to do with power to weight, thus in order to create a replica where you are limited to around 200-220 bhp with a TS (with sensible money), you have to look at the cars weight. So, can anyone tell me how many kg's I would save replacing the gt juniors alloy bonnet and trunk, lexan side windows, no sound material, alloy fuel tank, and how many kg's would a roll bar add? Which is the best value mod?

also my original question of left hand drive and right hand drive remains, the RHD cars were alleged to be seconds per lap quicker because of the weight distribution, is this correct? Would it be better to buy a lhd track car?

 

RHD cars are technically slightly faster for racing, but in the real world, its not anything to worry about with a road/trackday car, you can correct the issues by moving items like battery and fuel tank around in the car.

A well built GTA Replica with full steel bodywork and just perspex windows, alu t-bar, fibreglass boot and bonnet, no sound deadening, rollcage etc weighs around 900KG. My car is 875KG - no fuel but with oil and water, with the above spec. Fibreglass is a good option for boot and bonnet as it is relatively cheap and much lighter than aluminium items. Bob @ Alfapanels is the best source for these but for international shipping he struggles with courier rates, which is why we have set up with him to distribute his panels internationally. I think its better to leave the body steel, as the car is more rigid and less prone to denting than alu - I also feel this about doors - by the time all your mates have jumped in and out of the car for a few years, aluminium door skins would look a bit worse for wear - hence why I left my doors steel. It is of course also cheaper and with greater weight savings to addess ancillary items like the glass work, and of course unsprung weight like suspension and wheel components than aluminium body panels. We made our aluminium fender production recently primarily for customers to repair damaged GTAs rather than people putting aluminium panels on steel cars.


Max

 

Traditionally, RHD cars benefit from better weight distribution on race circuits where cars circulate in a clockwise direction, as the weight of the driver helps a little to obviate the effects of the chassis leaning against the direction of a right hand corner. With GTAs, this effect is more obvious because the factory fitted the fuel tank on the left hand side of the car. When you browse the extensive photos on this site, you will note that some people with LHD cars have deleted the left hand fuel tank and have fitted an aftermarket tank in the area usually occupied by the spare wheel, in the right hand side of the trunk, also in the interests of balance. As Colin Chapman showed at Indianapolis in the mid-1960s, however, it is entirely feasible to set up a car's suspension so that it is biased towards circulation in a particular direction. It just depends how far you want to go. In the interests of weight saving, you can't get better than plastic panels. Bob Wright in the UK makes featherweight panels for 105 'stepnose' cars and I can attest to their incredible lightness, having once lifted the back of a completely stripped car fitted with these panels with one hand! They're a fraction of the price of the pretty alloy panels sold by well-known suppliers in Europe, too. The only issue with them is that you will need to construct side impact bars as these panels are flimsy. Keep us up to date with your progress!

Alex.