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Giulia Sunroof Stuck

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45K views 49 replies 24 participants last post by  lgbalfa  
#1 ·
Hi all!
As the title says, my sunroof is stuck in the tilted open position. When I press the button to shut it, I can hear the motor running but nothing happens. At this point I don't really care if it ever opens again after this, I just want it sealed shut. Right now the only things keeping it tilted open are these brackets as shown in the pictures I've attached. Does anyone know how I can relax these so that I can seal the roof shut?
Thanks
Image
Image
 
#7 ·
These used to come with a manual operating tool back in the good old days. You popped off an inspection hatch and accessed a hex socket in the motor drive to wind the sunroof mechanism.

Unfortunately, in the case of the Giulia I understand it is the connecting cables which do not work so turning the motor by hand will not change things.

I can recommend not trying to get in there yourself. The entire sunroof sits inside a shallow metal bathtub which captures and diverts the inevitable leaks into four tubes that run from each corner of the tub to the ground down the roof pillars.

Unless you can move or remove the steel panel I think the whole mechanism has to be dropped out of the car after removal of the headliner.
 
#9 ·
I don't have to image the cost. My sunroof fell to this same defect 2 days after my warranty expired. BTW, I had the car in for its last service that day before the warranty expired. Oh, the cost to repair/replace? $2,000.
 
#11 ·
Maserati of Marin is strictly by the book. Open to other dealers. Suggestions in the SF Bay area?
 
#14 ·
Giulia Ti Q4
2018 Model Year
09/2017 Build Date


5/11/2022 - The sunroof became stuck open. Driver side would close completely, but passenger side would stay in the tilted position.

5/12/2022 – Drove 1-hour to my nearest dealer and asked questions. The Alfa Technician looked at it for ~1 minute and said I needed a new assembly (they weren’t being cavalier about it, they had replaced two sunroofs within the past couple weeks). Vehicle is out of warranty. Alternatively, he said he could try replacing just the cable, but that this was likely only a temporary fix. It would allow me to close the sunroof, but would be expected to break again in the future.

A second dealer said it was a common problem and needed a full assembly, price was verbally going to be $2,500 - $3,000.

A third dealer said it was common on 2018-2019 model years. I did not request a quote.

Prices:
Full Assembly Replacement ~$2,500.00 - $3,000.00
6ZQ74U7BAA SUNROOF $1,900.00 (parts) ??? (labor not quoted)
Cable Replacement Only (described as temporary) ~$1,100.00 before tax
68417429AA CABLE KIT $164.00 (parts) ~$880 (labor)

None of the dealers could offer a loaner or get me home, so I decided to think about my options on the hour drive home.

5/13/2022 – Sunroof repaired.

My Problem:
Passenger side of sunroof will not seal, stays in tilted position.

View: Standing at the driver’s rear wheel, sunroof tilted open, looking below the glass.
Image

Legend: Metal Guide Sleeve, Plastic Alignment Adapter, Screw mounting the plastic alignment adapter

View: Standing at the passenger’s rear wheel, sunroof tilted open, looking below the glass.
Image

Legend: Metal Guide Sleeve, Plastic Alignment Adapter, Screw mounting the plastic alignment adapter, Cable that pushes and pulls the sunroof into its positions

You can see in the passenger view that the metal guide sleeve became unseated from the plastic alignment adapter. This is an issue because when the (very rigid) cable is pushed and pulled by the sunroof motor, the metal guide sleeve now gets pushed and pulled toward the back or front of the car instead of moving the sunroof mounts along their guide rail.

Knurling on metal sleeve – You can also see some knurling on the metal guide sleeve (the grooves that make diamond or x shapes). This is done to give the Plastic Alignment Adapter something to “grab” when the metal guide sleeve is pressed into it. The knurling is very shallow, and there is no evidence of any type of epoxy, so the two parts may not have sufficient hold strength compared to the push/pull force of the cable.

View: From the passenger seat looking towards the passenger rear wheel, sunroof slid back, looking below the glass.
Image


Image


Crack in Plastic Alignment Adapter – Also contributing to the broken sunroof is this crack in the plastic alignment adapter, which I honestly didn’t notice until writing this post. The crack was likely caused by up/down forces from the cable due to pushing. (Think about holding a thick rope between your two hands, and pushing one hand toward the other. The rope curls instead of pushing your hand away. In the case of the Giulia, the cable curls and exerts a force on the metal guide sleeve and the plastic alignment adapter.

Root Cause Hypothesis:

The push/pull of the cable during normal use of the sunroof exerts a force on the walls of the Plastic Alignment Adapter. Over time, this force will cause the Plastic Alignment Adapter to crack. Once the crack forms, the friction force between the Plastic Alignment Adapter and the Metal Guide Sleeve is reduced, and no longer sufficient to mitigate the push/pull force of the cable. Continued normal use of the sunroof, and thus continued push/pull of the cable, will cause the Metal Guide Sleeve to separate from the Plastic Alignment Adapter.



How did I fix mine so that it would close again?

  1. Remove sunroof glass. This is the only step that having a helper is valuable for, because it can be awkward to lift off after removing the six (6) screws.
    • T25 Torx – Two (2) external and one (1) internal on both the driver and passenger side, for a total of six (6) screws.
  2. Remove Plastic Alignment Adapter screw. Photo below is from me standing in the sunroof hole looking down. You can see the screw that holds the Plastic Alignment Adapter has been removed, allowing the Plastic Alignment Adapter to rotate and slide on the cable.
    • T25 Torx – Accessed from the bottom using a ¼” wrench with T25 Torx bit. Be careful not to drop your Torx bit into the void.
      Image
  3. Slide the Plastic Alignment Adapter back onto the Metal Guide Sleeve.
  4. Drill a SHALLOW hole in the Plastic Alignment Adapter that is equal diameter to the metal wire from a clothes hanger. Be careful to NOT penetrate into where the cable moves.
    • NOTE – I’m not sure I would do this in hindsight. It will weaken the Plastic Alignment Adapter, and give another location for a crack to generate.
  5. Bend a clothes hanger piece (1-2 inches long) so that one side goes into the hole you just made, and the other can be secured to the Metal Guide Sleeve. (see photos below)
    Image
    Image
    Image
  6. Epoxy the **** out of what you just did, but not too much, as you don’t want stray epoxy around anything that moves (which is everything surrounding where you are working).
    • I used standard JB Weld in my fix. It’s the light gray stuff.
      Image
      Image
  7. Let dry according to the instructions on your epoxy. (15-24 hours for mine)
  8. Mount sunroof glass back on the rails. (secure, but not super tight)
    • There may be instructions out there about proper mounting, but I did it like wheels on a car, finger tight in a diagonal order.
  9. Hold your breath and attempt to close the sunroof.
    • If it closes, check it from the outside and make sure the glass looks evenly spaced and that the rubber seals all look good.
    • Then open back up enough to tighten securely. I’m not sure if there is a torque setting. From the factory, they used what looks like red loc-tite on the screws. I just put mine back in with no additional epoxy or anything.
    • If it doesn’t close, cuss a lot, and maybe try again. You’re probably not out any money, and the dealer will still want to replace the entire assembly.
In hindsight, I would have also done something to try to repair the crack in the Plastic Alignment Adapter, but that’s a job for another day. I don’t plan to use the sunroof from here on out, because I don’t get enough joy from hole in the roof to make the $3,000.00 fix worth it. Not to mention having to figure out what to drive for a couple weeks with the car at the dealer.

Prevention:

Based on what I learned doing the above work, I think this can be prevented by reinforcing the plastic alignment adapters around the circumference, and putting some epoxy at the point where the Metal Guide Sleeve meets the Plastic Alignment Adapter.

I’ll leave this work for another good citizen.

Special Thanks:

My Dad
- who always worked on his vehicles before going to a dealership. If you don’t have money to burn, maybe you have spare time and a good head on your shoulders to figure it out yourself.

Neighbor Bob – who helped me along the way and had the idea to attach the two pieces with a hanger, and executed that work flawlessly. Bob has a sweet Corvette, a great lawn, and very friendly dogs.

Haynes Manuals – these may not be around anymore, but they walked me through many vehicle repairs in my teens and twenties. I’m looking at you 1989 Toyota Celica, and 2003 Mini Cooper S.

Forums – like this one, which fill in the knowledge gaps for the community when someone gets a wild hair and decides to say, “Screw the dealer, I can do this one myself.”
 
#16 ·
Clever fix.
It isn't necessary to use such a long piece of wire, though. You may also be surprised at how small a diameter wire can affix the sleeve of the Bowden cable into the plastic thrust fitting. The sheer forces needed to hold the sleeve in place are much less than the breaking strength of a metal pin in sheer.

If there's room, the cracking of the plastic fitting might be prevented by wrapping the fitting with brass, copper or stainless steel wire then encase the wire in JB Weld. I used a similar method to repair plastic parts for a bi xenon headlight and a door mirror mechanism. Metal reinforced epoxy is what this amounts to, quite similar to your fix but you can get away with using much thinner wire.
 
#17 ·
This saved me! My sunroof failed for second time only this time no warranty. But managed to get it closed with these beautiful pics that explain what the issue is. I didn't have any epoxy on hand but used several zip ties lined up along the metal guide tube to stop it from flexing backwards out the plastic holder thing. Mine is also cracked in exact same spot. If i ever decide to used the sunroof again ill reinforce it with epoxy or something similar. For now just glad to have it closed. Thanks again for this contribution id be sick right now if i had go to the dealer for this.
 
#18 · (Edited)
I had a no-sunroof Stelvio. It was great, lower COG, the non-sunroof cars have different springs, handle and ride slightly better. I will order a non-sunroof Quad close to the end of the model run.

My gtv6 has no sunroof and the headliner still is great, I stained. The Milano Gold roof gets tilted but never opened, learned that from prior Milanos and 164 ownership. Spider top works flawlessly, and the 4C Spider soft targa-style roof is a great design and easy to remove and install. I had a Jaguar XJL- the roof was beautiful but always needing adjustment to not creak despite a very rigid body structure. Probably the biggest design flaw of that great car.

Sunroofs are a problem waiting to happen. Buy an old spider if you want to enjoy Al Fresco! Unfortunately most dealers order sunroof cars and non-sunroof cars are harder to sell.
 
#20 · (Edited)
I have a sun roof in my 91S but I never use it, although it worked just fine when I first got the car in 94. Even the seal around it is still fine, mainly because the roof always stays closed. I tilted the rear up a couple of times in the past, but that's it. I don't even do that anymore.

I would never order/buy a car with a sun roof if I could help it. I don't care who makes it, it will eventually fail, IMO. Alas, the Chevy SS we bought on a lark from a relative does have a sun roof, but we would never ever use it.

Pity that the Giulia, and assuming also the Stelvio, has such problems. You would think that they could get the design of a sun roof right. Do people with Asian cars have the same problems?
 
#21 ·
Hey folks! I'm unfortunately tackling the same project however, my plastic like adaptor broke to pieces. I'm thinking of getting the cable kit and trying to replace it myself - only problem is I can't find and instructions on how to dismantle the **** thing. It looks like the screws are all screwed in bottom/up (like the pics Alfred Shared), and I can't figure out how to reach them all without having to take apart the interior roof padding. Any help would be REALLY appreciated. It's been raining in Boston the last week and I'm both in dire need to get this fixed, and can't afford $2,000 at the dealership to fix it... Thanks!
 
#25 ·
Hi all!
As the title says, my sunroof is stuck in the tilted open position. When I press the button to shut it, I can hear the motor running but nothing happens. At this point I don't really care if it ever opens again after this, I just want it sealed shut. Right now the only things keeping it tilted open are these brackets as shown in the pictures I've attached. Does anyone know how I can relax these so that I can seal the roof shut?
Thanks
View attachment 1728722 View attachment 1728723
Hi all!
As the title says, my sunroof is stuck in the tilted open position. When I press the button to shut it, I can hear the motor running but nothing happens. At this point I don't really care if it ever opens again after this, I just want it sealed shut. Right now the only things keeping it tilted open are these brackets as shown in the pictures I've attached. Does anyone know how I can relax these so that I can seal the roof shut?
Thanks
View attachment 1728722 View attachment 1728723
I have this problem right now what can I do?
 
#28 ·
Buongiorno, oggi il tetto si è bloccato in posizione di chiusura..

se provo la procedura di inizializzazione, che è quindi quella di tenere premuto il pulsante di chiusura per 10 secondi, sento i motori sgranare.

È successo a qualcuno?

Sapete dirmi come fare la procedura di inizializzazione?
 
#29 ·
E la seconda volta che si rompe, la prima volta come spesso succede non si chiudeva completamente nella parte posteriore destra (mi avevano cambiato una guida)

ieri il tetto chiuso era ma avevo la tendina aperta.
Per sbaglio anziché premere il tasto per chiudere la tendina premo il tasto per apertura tetto a compasso.
Ho però premuto il tasto molto leggermente senza dare un buon input.
Quando poi ho premuto il tasto per chiudere il tetto, questo sì è chiuso ma non funzionava più il tasto per chiudere la tendina.
Ho fatto la procedura di inizializzazione e la tendina si è chiusa ma facendo rumori orrendi.
Da li ha smesso di funzionare tutto.
Funziona solo il tasto chiusura ma i motorini sgranano essendo il tetto già chiuso
 
#31 ·
Hi friends
And the second time it breaks, the first time as it often happens it did not close completely in the rear right changed (they had me a guide)



yesterday the roof was closed but I had the curtain open.

By mistake, instead of pressing the button to close the curtain, I press the button to open the hinged roof.

However, I pressed the key very lightly without giving a good input.

When I then pressed the button to close the sunroof, it closed but the button to close the sunshade no longer worked.

I did the initialization procedure and the curtain closed but making horrendous noises.

Since then everything has stopped working.

Only the closing button works but the motors spin as the roof is already closed