[gprocket]

Yup. Only difference is that the sheets are a bit smaller than the factory stuff so there are more joints. From what I've read, incomplete coverage is not at all a problem for sound deadening - I'm more concerned with standing water. I realize this layer is not acting like a roof but I think I'll tape over the seams to give myself some reassurance that any water that finds its way down doesn't end up in a small crack where it can't dry. Not sure what type of tape to use yet - might use the butyl I bought for the gas tank seal.

Are you planning on using this as a storm chaser?:wink2: What are the chances this car will see any rain, ever? :wink2::wink2:

My suggestion is to slit any areas that might have bridged and lay another piece over the slit. As you pointed out earlier, this is a vast improvement of the water entrapping jute.

BTW, the car looks stunning - congratulations!

 

[r-mm]

Point taken Rich!

For the record: a 10 pack of the 3M product is just about perfect to do the cabin the way the factory did it - ie nothing on the rear seats and nothing behind the map pockets. If you want to go bonkers or will be doing the trunk I'd suggest ordering more.

Does anyone have a picture of what the factory fuel tank seal looks like installed?

Curious if it overhangs the flange or is tight to it? Its not a C shape is it?

 

[r-mm]

Happy New Year all!

In between setting up my new garage and celebrating the holidays I've done a few GTV tasks.

The interior is now mostly covered in sound deadening and the heater is back in. I refurbished the heater, cleaning up the considerable gunk inside it, bench testing the motor and dry lubricating the pivot points. I have a new molded hose (left side) on order and will simply buy metric hose for the right side which doesn't seem to have any tricky bends.

While working on the now quite tidy interior the stalk switch really stood out. Why I left it installed for five years to collect dust is not entirely clear, but luckily pulling it and cleaning it up was not too hard. I did have to consult the owners manual to learn its ways (two position rotation huh) but found the correct continuity in all positions. I replaced the terminals on the harness end but left them as-found on the stalk end as they were well protected by heatshrink and visibly not a standard size.

I'm usually opposed (on grounds of authenticity?) to metallic spray paint, but a few coats did the trick on the stalk switch.

Note to those doing this: the little spring that goes around the steering column is clocked so to speak and can be installed incorrectly so the switch cancels in the wrong direction.

 

[BostonBertone]

Looking good. I just rewired my stalk to remove some prior hacking in the way of crimp connectors. It looked like at some point in the past someone had cut it out rather than unplug it!? I soldered everything and used heat shrink.
How the signal works I learned from a fellow BB member (Antonio 105) who let me take his 2000 for a spin. I had no idea you could twist it! I expect there will be more learning ahead.
I may follow your lead and paint the metal as it is probably likes yours was..pitted.

Inspiring to see another making progress.

 

[bulletpruf]

Does anyone have a picture of what the factory fuel tank seal looks like installed?

Curious if it overhangs the flange or is tight to it? Its not a C shape is it?

I'm assuming you're asking about the gasket that fits around the perimeter of the fuel tank where it meets the body. I just pulled the gas tank from my 72; the gasket was gray -- similar to foam weatherstrip that you would install in a residential door frame. It was maybe 1" wide and 1/4" thick. Not "C" shaped; just sits under the tank flange. Not sure if you could see it from underside; if so, maybe just a bit here and there.

There's also caulking inside the trunk and on top of the area where the tank flange meets the inside of the trunk.

Caveat -- I just pulled the gas tank out of my 72. No evidence that it had been removed before, but you never know.

If you need pictures of the gasket and/or measurements, let me know. I think I saved some of it for reference.

Scott

 

[r-mm]

It was maybe 1" wide and 1/4" thick. Not "C" shaped; just sits under the tank flange. Not sure if you could see it from underside; if so, maybe just a bit here and there.

There's also caulking inside the trunk and on top of the area where the tank flange meets the inside of the trunk.

Scott

I'm with you up to the point you're talking about the caulking inside the trunk. Starting with the flange on the body there is an approx 1" wide 1/4" thick gray seal. The flange on the gas tank sits on this seal. Where is the caulking?

 

[bulletpruf]

I'm with you up to the point you're talking about the caulking inside the trunk. Starting with the flange on the body there is an approx 1" wide 1/4" thick gray seal. The flange on the gas tank sits on this seal. Where is the caulking?

The caulking is on the inside of the trunk. Looks like it was applied to the area on the edge of the gas tank flange to seal the area between the gas tank flange and the body.

FYI - when I removed my tank, I first had to take a screwdriver and a few small scrapers to remove as much of the caulking as I could. Even after I did that, I wasn't able to break the seal between the tank/caulk/gasket/trunk by pushing up from underneath, and I'm not a small guy. Then I used my floor jack -- put a 1x6 under the tank and jacked up until it popped free. Without caulk, I would have been able to pop it out no problem.

Edit - if you want, I can try to take pictures of the remnants of the calking on the car or tank. I scraped most of it off, but should be some residue. Let me know.

Scott

 

[r-mm]

Scott - yes a picture would be great, it'd be interesting to see if anyone else has seen that caulk. It would be surprising to me if it were original, but who knows.

After my success with the column stalk I tried to make the gauges look a bit better. Opening them up was quite easy and let me do some dusting. I found a number of threads on improving the lighting of earlier style gauges (which I look at longingly) but not much on the little modules we have on the back of the 2000 Jaeger gauge cluster. Does anyone know what these are called and if warm LED replacements are out there?

 

[cuorealfa]

Hello RMM did you install the headliner yet if yes how did it turn out ,Im in the process of installing mine I just finished insulating the roof with sound deadener foam etc. great work by the way

 

[r-mm]

Hi Cuorealfa - I haven't gotten to the headliner yet. Do you have a thread on yours? If you need assembly advice you can look to my embarrassingly old thread where I go step by step taking mine apart.

 

[cuorealfa]

Hello RMM I don't have a thread on mine Im going by this wonderful alfa forum and threads by you and daveydog ,nothin to be embarrassed its guys like you that inspire others,Im also installing same 3MM floor deadener that you used,r you using insulation on top of 3MM deadener? sorry for all the questions Im trying to get as much info as I can,by the way your thread on headliner removal is very informative,and Im glad I took mine out the underneath was in horrible shape,I was going to use vinyl paint just to make it look good but after seeing your thread it gave me the motivation to replace it.sorry for all the rambling .again thanks

 

[r-mm]

Hey nothing to apologize about! Safe to say we all logged in here to ramble about old cars.

For the floors:
On top of the 3M sound deadener I am going to use the same double foil faced radiant foam insulation that I used in my headliner thread, but I won't install it until the car is almost finished as I'd likely rip/crush it in the interim.

For the headliner:
I'm ONLY using the foil faced foam as it is extremely light and in no danger of falling / causing the HL to sag. I had it installed for several years before I had the car media blasted at which point it was removed. I'll re-install it using 3M spray adhesive just like I did the first time. I'm fairly sure this is the stuff EZ Cool Automotive Insulation heat barrier and noise reduction for cars, trucks, classic cars, street rods and much more

 

[bulletpruf]

Scott - yes a picture would be great, it'd be interesting to see if anyone else has seen that caulk. It would be surprising to me if it were original, but who knows.

Ok, give me a few days on the pictures.

Scott

 

[r-mm]

I'm reassembling the door hardware which was removed by the painter. Can someone remind me whats going on with the strikes attached to the body @ B pillars?

A, B, C bolt thru the jamb to the threaded steel piece behind (more on that in a minute).

I see no threading on E and in fact it doesn't appear on the parts illustration either - but in looking at pictures of my car pre-disasembly, there is clearly a fastener there.

D on the other hand is clearly threaded on the female piece but obscured by the strike.

My car pre-paint:

Is there some means of attaching the female threaded piece to the body that I'm missing? I see no rivets or threads on this piece but there are sheet metal tabs that very loosely locate it. Is it simply pulled tight by the screws, like a big nut?

 

[1750GT]

..Is there some means of attaching the female threaded piece to the body that I'm missing? I see no rivets or threads on this piece but there are sheet metal tabs that very loosely locate it. Is it simply pulled tight by the screws, like a big nut?

View attachment 934946

Exactly, the tabs simply hold the backing plate in position for assembly. Once the bolts are tightened things can't really go anywhere...it's essentially all sandwiched together to the B pillar.

I don't have the later GTV, so I can't say with certainty that there were 4 bolts originally. On the two previous 1750GTV's that I owned there were only three bolts. Here's mine now...

That said, if 4 bolts are what is required, perhaps you need to switch the backing plate to the opposite side?

 

[r-mm]

That said, if 4 bolts are what is required, perhaps you need to switch the backing plate to the opposite side?

Brilliant idea... but didn't work =). Nonetheless I have the door hardware assembled (sans 4th bolt for now) and am proceeding to test fitting the door seals. I bought a set of aluminium door seal retaining channels and remembered their fit being slightly odd in places. Can someone take a pic of their car and tell me:

Do the channels ever show a gap as seen below, or do they hold tight to the flange on the body?

Is it right that the channel above the hinge overlaps the rain gutter molding slightly?

 

[Berlinista]

you are doing fine. A slight gap is acceptable.
As the hinges: us versions have four bolt holes of which three are used as in the backing plate , the fourth has a pop rivet in the hole. Don't ask me why. I've a US GTV here with exactly your setup.

 

[r-mm]

That is a beefy pop rivet! Could have been a last minute DOT fix? Who knows. Thanks for confirming, I appreciate that. Don't like lingering mysteries.

 

[1750GT]

Just another confirmation for you in the thread below which shows the same striker.

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/car-restoration/85302-rusty-gtv-floorboards-2.html#post1052044

Daveydog's is a 74 GTV as well....so it would seem that the later GTV's definitely had the 4 bolts and as mentioned in the noted thread....there is a rivet installed in the fourth hole from what Daveydog stated.

 

[r-mm]

Thanks - great link - it points to the part of the process I'm in the middle of. Interesting that he mentions enlarging the holes in the channels exactly where I saw them pulling outboard from the flange. Tonight I'm going to check the horribly rusted original channels to see what type of relationship they have.