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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
They list three different ones this one is a Valeo and cheaper priced for earlier models http://www.eeuroparts.com/productdetail.aspx?searchResults=1&code=6510

Notice note that says some cars have been modified to take later style like the link you posted. Not sure what the difference is.

They or someone else was also listing one made by Marelli.

The OEM Saab is all metal so cost more http://www.eeuroparts.com/productdetail.aspx?searchResults=1&code=5206

Looks like front suspension arms are more than that but front bushings only 9.90 http://www.eeuroparts.com/searchresults.aspx?&carid=1101&cat=1033 http://www.eeuroparts.com/productdetail.aspx?searchResults=1&code=5978
 

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Are they all plastic or are some metal or more sturdy? Do you know what modification is necessary to use the others. It probably isn't worth the mod because they're probably just about the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
They list the Saab OEM heater core as all metal and price is higher. The only difference I see in pictures of all three (if picture of actual parts) as compared to one in 164 is that on 164 one tube longer than other to offset hoses/clamps slightly.

I have not ordered one but have pulled a couple from Saab 9000s in Pick-N-Pull. Haven't found a metal one yet nor a black one all have been cream colored plastic like 164 but tubes not offset.

Here is another Saab parts link http://www.thesaabsite.com/9000/9000cooling.htm
 

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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
Installed blower motor and refurbished A/C filter

Well, 93L Rosso now has working blower and A/C.

Pictues of heater core and temp stepper cable, installing blower motor, hooking up stepper temp cable on full cold postion and taping off back side of false fire wall.

Add to procedure the following: Wiper motor removal - Not sure if we spelled out removal procedure or not but not to hard to do. Remove black caps on wiper arm nuts, remove nuts, washers and arms. remove black caps on bolts near arm pivots, remove bolts/washers, remove metal bracket over right side pivot point, then remove hidden bolt above motor holding motor frame to ****pit wall.

You have to loosen round connector, remove connector round nut, slip out of metal bracket. Remove two nuts holding bracket to floor behind false firewall. remove black cover over blower motor relay.

Move wiper motor some and disconnect wiring connector to it and manipulate assembly until you work it out of car.
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Discussion Starter #25
Replacing "horse hair filter in A/C unit

Once I got blower motor and false fiirewall installed I decided to check out A/C filter and replace old hair of filter with Home Depot foam kit.
 

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back to th original question, is there a fuseable link of some sort inside the false firewall box? because it looks like it's just a box for letting 2 heavy duty leads pass thru the firewall cos I can't see anyfuses in there?!?
 

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Discussion Starter #27
If cars wiring has not been modified there are two 40A thin aluminum fuse bars G254/255 attached in little black boxes to front and back of the G56 terminal box mounted on false firewall. Front one for radiator cooling fan and rear one for blower motor. Check both sides of small terminals that fuse bar attached too with small 8mm (5/16") nuts for 12v. Usually a hairline crack in this small thin fuse bar will stop motor. These fuse links get their power from that large terminal box.
 

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Has anybody else used this (Walter Forlini's) method, to remove the blower motor?
Alternative Alfa 164 HVAC Blower Replacement

I'm about to try it, as my motor is stopping from time to time and starting it by hitting the heater box is getting more and more frequent.
 

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Has anybody else used this (Walter Forlini's) method, to remove the blower motor?
Alternative Alfa 164 HVAC Blower Replacement

I'm about to try it, as my motor is stopping from time to time and starting it by hitting the heater box is getting more and more frequent.
Looks like the easy way but man I hate cutting into stuff.
Probably just want to remove it like Steve shows here..

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/164-168-1991-1995/146207-164-c-problems.html

This also goes along with the above:

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/164-168-1991-1995/146349-new-false-fire-wall.html
 

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Has anybody else used this (Walter Forlini's) method, to remove the blower motor?
Alternative Alfa 164 HVAC Blower Replacement

I'm about to try it, as my motor is stopping from time to time and starting it by hitting the heater box is getting more and more frequent.
No, because it should be fixed properly IMO. What is worth doing, is worth doing right as they say. It might also help to go the other way with the blower housing by removing the wiper motor/rack, that is not too time consuming to remove really.
Charles
 

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No, because it should be fixed properly IMO. What is worth doing, is worth doing right as they say. It might also help to go the other way with the blower housing by removing the wiper motor/rack, that is not too time consuming to remove really.
Charles
I sort of have to agree with this, shortcuts on this car end up not working that well. I just did not want to shoot his fix down. I tried the cutting into the dash thing to access the steppers, what a nightmare. It was much easier to actually remove the whole dash than cutting into it and ruining the dash, thats my next project, yes...to repair the dash by putting in a new one. fun. Not worth it, just do it right. Pulling wiper makes it a lot easier, none of it is that time consuming and if discharging system it is a lot easier.

The more you remove the more it makes it easy and you can do the job properly so you do not have to return in there.
 

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Discussion Starter #33 (Edited)
Found a better way to change blower motor and heater core

Thanks to Chazzy for idea of also removing wiper motor to gain more access to blower motor and heater core.

Not sure if we spelled out removal procedure before or not but not to hard to do. Remove black caps on wiper arm nuts, remove nuts, washers and arms. remove black caps on bolts near arm pivots, remove bolts/washers, remove metal bracket over right side pivot point, then remove hidden bolt above motor holding motor frame to ****pit wall.

You have to loosen round connector, remove connector round nut, slip out of metal bracket. Remove two nuts holding bracket to floor behind false firewall. remove black cover over blower motor relay.

Move wiper motor some and disconnect wiring connector to it and manipulate assembly until you work it out of car.

If you have a 95 model with EGR valve the brake booster banjo fitting, hollow bolt, 4 copper sealling washers and metal spacer stick out from back of intake plenum. You will proably have to remove hollow bolt, etc to get more clearance.
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Did this today on my son's 92L and even though I still have to loosen and lift a/c evaporator box I didn't have to disconnect any wiring to it.

I did disconnect and pull out heater hoses, too.

With wiper motor out of the way much easier job.

Remember before starting job to run temp to LO setting to get temp lever cable all the way forward so you can get to it to disconnect it as when high temp selected lever pulled into back real firewall

Also cycle recirulation button to get that door about halfway open so you can slide motor shaft off door pivot.
 

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Discussion Starter #34 (Edited)
Some more pix of process

I still removed clamp for a/c valve and hose in front of engine and removed recirulation motor so I could move evaparator box but did not discharge freon.

I also installed a new blower motor as brushes worn way down.

Notice cotter key hole and key in temperature door arm. I never seen that before. Now was this factory mod or has somebody been here before and drilled hole in arm? Either way a neat trick.

And Yes heater core was cracked in side tank hoses attach to.
 

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Discussion Starter #35 (Edited)
Changing out blower motor and testing before install

Split blower housing case by removing metal clips and another hidden screw holding case together and removed/installed plastic bracket on motor and fan blade.

Note how wires go in connector - green motor wire will go to pink wire in car connector and black ground motor wire will go to green chassis wire which is grounded by a/c panel inside car.

I always test motor and fan before putting in car with battery charger red wire to green motor wire and black to black.
 

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Discussion Starter #36 (Edited)
Putting car back together

Notice metal putty knife used to hold spring latch at bottom of motor housing to remove and install. Use long screwdriver to unlatch spring latch on other side below temp lever cable area.

NOW BEFORE YOU START HOOKING UP TEMP DOOR CABLE TO LEVER ONCE YOU HAVE BLOWER HOUSING LOCKED BACK IN PLACE MOVE LEVER BY HAND TO BE SURE TEMP DOOR OPEN EASILY IF BINDING UNLOCK METAL SPRING TABS REPOSITION HOUSING MOVE LEVER TO OPEN DOORS SLIGHTLY RELOCK HOUSING AND TEST LEVER AGAIN BEFORE HOOKING UP STEPPER TEMP DOOR CABLE.

Back to work
 

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Looks like a revision is needed then. This way is much easier. Also notice where the wire loom comes out next to the heater core, I would either clean it up and wrap it again as everytime the blower comes out it seems to kind of rub those wires. I have seen some with insulation gone and wire green from corrosion. I like to use the anti-friction tape for those areas over electrical.

j
 

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Discussion Starter #38
I cleaned up and rewrapped wire harnesses before I put car back together and after a lunch break and getting an estimate on my daughter's car bumper repair from hit and run in college parking lot I finished it up and took it for a test drive.

Hope this is all the heater cores and blower motors I'll be changing for awhile as this is number six in our fleet.
 

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Top effort Steve as always, great photos! I've also done that wiper motor removal and A/C box repositioning method in the past.

Which replacement heater core was that - Saab or Alfa part?

The blower housing has a strange rectangular blanking plug with rounded ends ('oval') - second picture in post #33 - which, you may be vaguely interested to know, is for the fan speed resistor pack used on the FIAT Croma/Lancia Thema without a/c. For those of us in countries that got those cars, that means we can drop in one of those motors as a replacement on the 164 (having a manual switch means they tend to run less over the life of the car).

-Alex
 

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Discussion Starter #40 (Edited)
Top effort Steve as always, great photos! I've also done that wiper motor removal and A/C box repositioning method in the past.

Which replacement heater core was that - Saab or Alfa part?

The blower housing has a strange rectangular blanking plug with rounded ends ('oval') - second picture in post #33 - which, you may be vaguely interested to know, is for the fan speed resistor pack used on the FIAT Croma/Lancia Thema without a/c. For those of us in countries that got those cars, that means we can drop in one of those motors as a replacement on the 164 (having a manual switch means they tend to run less over the life of the car).

-Alex
Heater core neither as far as I know it is aftermarket brand unknown just numbers shown on box in picture above.
 
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