[Gabor K.]

Hi MC Racing,
Thanks for your information, however there still are some uncleared points for me! You mention fiat 1800 TS 16V block with turned around head. Do you mean Twin Spark head? As far as I can see the D2 head is a single plug head. Possbily there were two generation D2 engines, the first a single plug 16V and the second a twin plug 16V?
Also it would be interesting to see how the special cam drive is arranged: belt drive to a single pulley, then gears(or chain) to the cams? Maybe your friend can offer some photos to clear up about this construction?

GK.

 

[MC-Racing]

Hi Gabor,

it's based on the TS 16v Head, the head which was in the 155, 145/146 cars from 1995 up on the Fiat-Lancia iron-block. It's second spark plug is useless, the main plug is in the center, the 2nd plug is on the side for meeting emissions or marketing. This engine has nothing to do with the real alfa constructions nor the fiat abarth 16v heads used in 131 and 037.

i try to ask him how the cams are driven.

MC

 

[MC-Racing]

Hy Gabor,

I met him, but he wasn't in the mood to talk.

The only thing i found out is who built these engines:
Autotecnica Motori

MC

 

[Gabor K.]

OK,
thanks, maybe you get more info later. About how this engine came to be and its development!

GK.

 

[kpc655]

guys, old thread i know. But has anyone ever completed the fit of a 155 to a nord block? whats the best way to deal with the cam sprocket / tensioner misalignment with the lower sprocket? Appears to be about 3.75mm off. The cam sprockets could moved easily, but that leaves the tensioner in the wrong location. That also could have the head cut off, shifted and welded back on.

Option 2 would be moving the lower sprocket back, but the chain to chain distance (upper to lower chain) seems too tight in this configuration.

Any thoughts?

 

[hunttheshunt]

Yes, I did it already. You need to modify the intermediate sprocket. The bigger gear is pressed onto the shaft; remove it, adjust the distance, shorten the shaft and as well you have to modify the bronze bushing in the front cover to avoid too much clearance after having modified the intermediate sprocket. I should have some pics somewhere stored.

I never would think about moving the cam sprockets and changing tensioner position. Go the easy way, not the wrong one.

 

[iachella]

Pictures would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

[kpc655]

hunttheshunt, good info. I considered that, but my concern was the chains would be too close. glad to hear you were successful. any pics would be great! do you recall how much you shifted the gear? by my measurements it's right around 4mm

 

[hunttheshunt]

From my memory it was 3.5mm, but that´s not important as the responsible engine builder has to measure it to check out alignment when doing this work either.

I did a quick search on my old PC; pics show the distanced out front cover bushing and in-situ with chains and sprocket fitted as well as the big gear separated. It´s no miracle work; always when fitting an new part on a known part you´ve to measure if it fits - like in this case.

Don´t forget that fitting a TS head onto a Nord block requires either changing head bolts or modifying head with deep pockets for smaller head nuts. Which way do you want to go and why do you want to use a Nord block instead of a TS block, which is stronger ?

You´ll need to shorten the long chain by 3 links to 109 as I recall.

Using an early Nord block with the 3 oil return passages on the rear end, you´ll have to plug them and to shorten the rear edge of the block (gasket surface) to get a decent look.

Using a 155TS head without connected VVC also requires plugging the oil passages for the VVC regulator as well as plugging 1 of 2 of the oil passages in the #6 (chain side) cam bearing carrier with smal grub screws after having cut threads into the oil passages.

From my memory it requires in total 17 individual modifications to make a 155 head fit to a Nord block. Somewhere I´ve written that down on a memory sheet.

Using Nord block and its intermediate sprocket you should watch out for this:

Post #33

 

[hunttheshunt]

Intermediate sprocket; separated gear.

 

[Dr.G]

155 water exhaust

I got this beautiful part from Formula GT München, so I am proceeding ahead with my 155TS head project.
This will solve the problem of the water exhaust.
I'll port out the side of the block for my water to my heater and to the bypass on the water pump.

 

[Veep]

I do not understand the water exhaust was a problem? easy part to make. Nice part from Formula GT . I would have made it different though. I would the pipe go around the corner. Now you have a hose fitting at the back of the engine. I would like to prevent that.

 

[kpc655]

I went the route of replacing all of the studs. i'll be using a similar piece to what formula GT made, but coming up at a 45 deg angle so that the log sits above the intake manifold.

Here's the engine today. Its still being mocked up to do some final fitment and changes etc. back 4 oil holes are tapped / plugged. front 2 are supported by a larger roll pin. intermediate gear is being reworked and shimmed. pistons are out for coating. etc. etc.

When this first engine is done, i'll share some more details about the final specs. I've got quite a few of these heads here. if anyone is (seriously) interested in having a motor built, contact me via PM.

 

[Dr.G]

Yes, it was a problem for me, VEEP, since I didn't know how much water needed to be exhausted to keep the head cooled or have fabrication skills. Nobody offered a kit so I made up the side water outlets in an earlier thread. I don't see the need to connect a hose clamp at the back of the engine as a big deal. I also plan on having a long exhaust water hose that loops out to the front of the engine, so I don't see a need for a 45 degree that is under the intake manifold Veep. I already have hose clamps at the back of my engine for my water heater so I don't see that as a big deal. Not everyone has welding and machining skills Veep.

Just trying to share a solution for others. Please post your progress when your part is completed.

 

[Dr.G]

I noticed my post was from 2007 when I left for another position. I am sure your project will be completed before anything I get done. Success Veep, bedankt.

 

[iachella]

That part is the basic format I was thinking of. I would have added a bleed screw to it. Us Alfa owners can never come to a consensus on a new part, can we? I had been thinking of cutting some aluminum parts and bringing to a good aluminum welder for the final product, but would consider this if reasonable. How much was it? I don't find it on their website. Do you have a direct link to the product?

 

[Dr.G]

Hi Stefano, it's a bit difficult to find, since it's not there!
I believe it's what Alfaholics used on a GTV with the FormulaGT intake manifold.

https://www.alfaholics.com/our-cars/completed-builds/1968-fast-road-gt-junior-canadian-market/

I am into this with all the parts for completion now. Steve and Richard say it's a long slide for a short run. Jim says it will make great horsepower.

Around $180 Stefano, and have it sent Deutsche Post or you will pay dearly.

 

[Veep]

I do not use a 155 head, project now running is a 155 block with a 75 head.

 

[kpc655]

I'm hoping for some guidance on the oil restrictors . The current race block as all 6 restricted to 3/32. However i've removed the back four and plugged them. But how big should i allow the fronts? From strictly an area standpoint, they'd need to be bigger than 0.25 ID to match the area of all 6 @ 3/32, but that's too bit.

Does anyone have a 155 block lying around - how big are the front oil holes?

Thanks!

 

[hunttheshunt]

Simply leave them like they are.