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S4 Floppy Mirror -- Alternative Repair Method

1.5K views 1 reply 2 participants last post by  alfaloco  
#1 ·
Frustrated by by driver's side floppy mirror and fearful of trying to pry off the mirror to access the hollow post passage on 31 year old plastic, I came up with a repair that can be accomplished from under the assembly, and not tempt fate cracking the mirror, motorized base -- or both! If you have this issue you have probably seen this great thread:

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/spi...ror-repair-replacement-91-w-pics-options.html


And, that method will by my back up if this one fails. But here we go.

First, the reason these break is the cast alloy base that is molded into the top mirror assembly. Basically its a hollow post that passes into the base, and is attached to a nut that compresses a spring from under the base. The top housing can pivot over the base on top of slight indentions allowing it to lock into place with the spring tension. While the hollow post is fairly thick, it is very thin where its threaded on the lower end where the nut for the spring attaches. Combined with the porous alloy and thin walls, it does not take much to break these. I think the PO broke this one pulling the car cover off that has tight mirror pockets. See here:

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The thicker part of the post, over which the spring fits remains and can be threaded with using a die. Turns out the post accepts a 1/4 NPT thread without too much effort. Using a 1/4 NPT die and some cutting oil, carefully turning back and forth it took about 2 mins to cut threads. (NPT is national pipe thread and its used on most air tool fitting, gavanized and black pipe -- all available at the big box hardware stores). You do have to cut off the connectors - 3 wires - to get everything off and back on. But I cut towards the connectors and it took just a few minutes to solder them back and add some heat shield sleeves.

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From there I used a 1/4 NPT Female to 1/2 NPT Male bushing to screw down on the post. The spring is very stiff, and is a little too long as its missing its original length from the broken off end. After trying some alternative springs I have from salvaged parts and big box store replacements, none had the strength needed to hold the mirror in place -- going 70MPH would have easily flopped the mirror closed with regular springs. So, with great hesitance I measured the seated Alfa spring against the post, marked just below the top leaving a row or two of exposed threats so I could get the bushing started, and cut it with a dremmel. Note that the spring is so stiff you cannot readily compress it by hand, and there is no space to use anything on the side to compress it. So the only easy way is to get the bolt started and turn it down. Note that the spring should be cut as horizontal as possible to let it seat correctly.
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Added some thread locker and turned down until flush from below:

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So far so good. Went back on the car just fine. Took time to regrease the window and door mechanisms, and it all looks original. Hoping it holds up as I just have that feeling that I will never pop the mirror out in once piece!
 
#2 ·
That's a very good solution to a common problem, and it applies to mirrors for the S3 Spider and the GTV 6 also, since they are all made the same way. I had to do a repair on my son's GTV 6 pass side mirror, for the same familiar failure, and I used JB Weld on the cracked-out threaded stud. Luckily, it had cracked up around the base, which left some solid metal as a starting point for the epoxy. To reduce the stress on the repaired assembly, I removed one coil from the spring, and ground down a new flat on the bottom coil.
Since we had both mirrors off for cleanup and painting, I unscrewed (carefully) the retainer nut and wiped some lithium grease on those cam ramps that hold the mirror in place. I think this breakage happens because if you tug on the mirror, or somebody bumps it, the spring is very strong and those old corroded cam ramps resist popping out of position like they were originally designed to do.