Spider T-Bar

I have an 86 Grad that also has the notorious shift and clunk. So, please tell me just how difficult is the repair. Someone in our local club told me not to even think about doing it. His idea is to cut out the old spacers, splice each one of the new spacers and slide them in place. Then put a large hose clamp around each one to hold it in place. That thought did not thrill me, so I am anxious to know how much is involved in doing the job properly.

Thanks,
Dean

 

His idea is to cut out the old spacers, splice each one of the new spacers and slide them in place. Then put a large hose clamp around each one to hold it in place. That thought did not thrill me, so....

I think you meant to type "slice", and not "splice"

That thought doesn't thrill me either! #1, I don't think there is room to get a hose clamp in there. #2, While it can be difficult to install the inner bushing, it was designed to function intact - not split.

The other thought I have on this topic is that maybe it isn't such a great idea to use poly bushings in this location on a street car. There is a thread discussing another problem a BB'er is experiencing with poly T arm bushings going on at http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/gt-1965-1974/170981-reaction-trunion-rear-axle-bush-fell-off.html .

The stock rubber bushings work quite differently than the poly bushings. The rubber parts twist to accommodate rotation between the T arm and the diff - there is no movement between the outer ring on the T arm and the o.d. bushing, nor between the stud on the diff and the bushing i.d. .

The poly bushings are too rigid to twist, so they need to rotate on the diff stud. As Favali's photos show, after just 18,000 miles of rotation, the poly bushings get pretty worn down. Maybe there is some way to introduce lubrication to reduce this wear. Maybe poly T arm bushings are more appropriate to race cars where all parts get swapped out well before the 18,000 mile mark.

 

Wow, I thought the poly was supposed to last a lot longer than that! Did you check your trunnion thrust washers while you were under there?

 

Bob,

The washers "looked" okay (still one piece - no crumbling) as they were replaced when the bushing was done back in 2004. The 2004 bushing was done by a local AR mechanic and I suspect the suspension may not have been loaded when he torqued the assembly. I cannot think of any other reason why it would fail so quickly and what appears to be extreme. The car had 81,000 miles then...it has 98,000 now.

I did this myself, cleaned the assembly, and loaded the suspension when I tightened it so I hope it performs better.

Tulsalfa - This was not that bad and I think a very manageable project with (2) hydraulic jacks, jack stands, ramps, and another person at the point of reassembly. Search "trunnion bar bushing" as there are some good stories including one from "GraniteAlfa" with pictures......

I hope this one lasts longer than 18k miles.
-Rob

 

So, this morning I did the shuffle and after a test ride, we are so much better and with new hangers and center muffler, we even sound better.

-Rob

Dirty fingernails

 

Rob, did you put poly on again, or did you go back to rubber?

 

Bob,

It is the poly set from IAP. The picture is poor but they are dark blue.

The fit was real tight but with the supplied grease on the bushing, in the bushing, and the stud plus some "super lube" and a bit of encouragement, they fit well. I also used the super lube when I reassembled the trailing arms and links.

I went poly because I do not want to do it again in 18k miles but I honestly did not think about in the frame that Jay (Alfajay) describes. I guess we will to wait and see. I am under the car frequently during the summer months so I may keep an eye on it in the future. Still, unless I am missing something, it really is not that hard and would do it again with little hesitation.

And, Fred, I used grease....as in what is under my fingernails.....
-Rob