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2 fuses, F9 and F10, blow at same time

1.5K views 4 replies 4 participants last post by  Norseman50  
#1 ·
Fuses F9 and F10 blow (at the same time) after I turn the lights on. They don't blow immediately, but blow after 5 to 30 seconds. I'm using a divide and conquer strategy - unplugging connectors - to identify the cause of the short. If that doesn't identify the short, the implication is it is in the wiring.

Does anyone know where connector 73 is located? I'm assuming it's under the dash on the left side. Knowing where it is will tell me where the wires run.

Thanks,
John
 
#2 · (Edited)
G73 is behind the fuse box, pita to get to by the looks of things:
this is on an S3 but should be similar to your S4 (an S4 right?...I seem to recall, but always better to state what car/year in the thread title:))
http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/spider-1966-up/501873-help-finding-short-fuse-9-a.html

It is odd fuse 9 & 10 blow together as they protect different circuits (park and rear lights [diagonally opposed]/ hood light/ trunk light/ brake lights /number plate light etc)

I wonder if it has something to do with where the big loom fits through a hole on the top left side under the dash behind and above the fusebox....you need to get right up there to even see it.
.......there it can abrade against the 'sharp edged' metal hole as it is not very well sheathed (Bianchi1 pointed this out a couple of years ago, with an easy solution to protect it, but I cannot find the thread with the photo)

Dom
 
#3 ·
Late last year I started blowing a fuse when I stepped on the brake. It turned out to be all the corrosion inside the tail light lens where the lights are attached. I cleaned it all up and put all new bulbs in, and now it's fine. As a bonus I gained the rear fogs! I confess that I didn't even know that I had rear fogs. I wondered what the extra bulbs that weren't lighting up were and asked the forum. Derp...
 
#4 ·
The car is a 92 Spider. Connector 73 is in a bracket high on the left side of the drivers foot well. There is another smaller connector in front of it whose removal made it much easier to access connector 73. I disconnected the connector and the fuses didn't blow. The problem is in the cable running to the tail lights.

Removing seats, carpet, etc. to inspect the cable seems like a lot of work so I decided to do a work around to fix the problem. This summer, when I redo the interior, will be the best time to identify where the short is occurring. The work around is to run 18 gauge speaker wire from the fuse panel to the tail lights. The yellow connector on the fuse box connecting wires to F9 and F10 was unplugged as were the connectors to the tail lights. Both ends of the 18 gauge wire have 1/4' male spade connectors that were plugged into the fuse box and tail light. These wires also supply power to the license plate lights and side marker lights. The spade connectors for the tail lights had another wire crimped in place which was run to the license plate and side marker connectors. The two wires providing power to license plate and side marker lights required two 0.093 male connectors be attached, one to provide power to a license plate light and one to provide power to the a side marker light.

That left the issue of connecting the 2 other wires in the yellow connector to F9 and F10 and the connecting the other wires in the 2 taillight connectors. The solution was simple, connections were made using 2" jumpers with a male 1/4" spade connector at one end and a female 1/4" spade connector at the other end. I also made 2 jumpers with male and female 0.093 connectors to connect wires in 2 connectors that were unplugged to disconnect the cable with the shorted wires and connect wires to provide power to the license plate and side marker lights.

Auto part stores wanted about a $1 each for the spade connectors, however I bought an assortment of automotive connectors for $10-$12 at Harbor Freight. The 0.093 male connectors were found at Radio Shack. I also bought an assortment of shrink tubing at Harbor Freight that I used to cover the exposed metal of the 0.093 male pins after they were crimped. The 0.093 pins are designed to be inserted into a connector body.

The fix was obvious once I understood what the shorted wires provides power to. There's a hole on the left side of the rear firewall with other wires, etc. made running the 18 gauge wire to the tail lights easy.

Time wise it take a day to understand the wiring and identify what wasn't causing the short and 4 to 6 hours to buy connectors, wire, etc., make the cable, and install it.