well, installed a new release cable and sheath cause the PO just had a bare cable going thru the firewall and was starting to fray...actually it looked like the inner trunk cable.
anyway, after getting it routed and the set screws tightened, gave it a couple test pulls on the release lever. All good. dropped the hood and tried to release it...
**** cable just released from the set screw...the one u under the hood, not under the dash
I guess not tight enough??? But didn't wanna break or strip the set screw either.
So, recalling some other posts about getting at the latch from under the car...jack up the driver's side, nope can't see anything so go to the passenger side...yep, there it is.
It required removing pax tire, turning the steering wheel one full turn to the right to more the tie rod linkage. and removing the throttle link end (S3 spider). All in order to have room to guide a 2 foot bar into place.
So pictures of the things I tried with no success...first the long screw driver, couldn't really get any leverage to move the latch. then the 1/2" electrical conduit pipe, that fit nicely onto the bottom of the "pin thing/set screw" that the end of the wire goes through. But again, no leverage to move the latch towards the driver's side to release the hood. long pry bar, same failure.
Then I my 24" (2foot) tire iron tool from Harbor Freight, item # 93230. The ends are tapered. I was able to place the tapered end between the latch lever and the passenger side of the latch bracket (for lack or a better word). Once the tapered end was in place I pushed up to make sure it was fully seated between the latch lever and bracket. But again, no way to get any leverage to actually move the latch lever.
Then I used a pair of channel lock pliers to grab the bottom of the tire iron and twist it a 1/4 turn. Clockwise looking up I believe. The hood popped the first time. No prying, no levering, no pushing, no beating, no hammering...just a little twist. So easy.
So, Harbor Freight tire iron and a pair of pliers is all that was needed. Insert end of tire iorn into latch, then twist. well, it worked on an S3. probably the same/similar for S1/2/4.
anyway, after getting it routed and the set screws tightened, gave it a couple test pulls on the release lever. All good. dropped the hood and tried to release it...
**** cable just released from the set screw...the one u under the hood, not under the dash
I guess not tight enough??? But didn't wanna break or strip the set screw either.So, recalling some other posts about getting at the latch from under the car...jack up the driver's side, nope can't see anything so go to the passenger side...yep, there it is.
It required removing pax tire, turning the steering wheel one full turn to the right to more the tie rod linkage. and removing the throttle link end (S3 spider). All in order to have room to guide a 2 foot bar into place.
So pictures of the things I tried with no success...first the long screw driver, couldn't really get any leverage to move the latch. then the 1/2" electrical conduit pipe, that fit nicely onto the bottom of the "pin thing/set screw" that the end of the wire goes through. But again, no leverage to move the latch towards the driver's side to release the hood. long pry bar, same failure.
Then I my 24" (2foot) tire iron tool from Harbor Freight, item # 93230. The ends are tapered. I was able to place the tapered end between the latch lever and the passenger side of the latch bracket (for lack or a better word). Once the tapered end was in place I pushed up to make sure it was fully seated between the latch lever and bracket. But again, no way to get any leverage to actually move the latch lever.
Then I used a pair of channel lock pliers to grab the bottom of the tire iron and twist it a 1/4 turn. Clockwise looking up I believe. The hood popped the first time. No prying, no levering, no pushing, no beating, no hammering...just a little twist. So easy.
So, Harbor Freight tire iron and a pair of pliers is all that was needed. Insert end of tire iorn into latch, then twist. well, it worked on an S3. probably the same/similar for S1/2/4.
