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Attention WIP: manual AAV setup

8.5K views 7 replies 4 participants last post by  bianchi2  
#1 · (Edited)
Sorry for the delay, been hainvg things going on here preventing lotsa stuff going on.

It's a pretty rudimentary setup that works about perfectly.

The sheet metal bracket is actually optional, and is there only to help prevent the valve flailing around due to vibration and buzzing the cam cover. The hoses themselves will hold it in place quite well, and as the cable sleeve is anchored to the valve proper, not having a bracket will not effect the function of the thing.

The bend on the choke cable wire is shaped just like a safety pin and was bent around a suitable diameter bolt. (3/16" IIRC)

Travel limit can be accomplished with the cable sleeve itself, but using a bit of vac line slipped over it instead is much easier to deal with as it allows adjustment of range without having to fiddle the screw or bracket. Just get the hose in the spot you want it and zip tie it or make it long enough so as the travel stops at full open or slightly less. (you only need full open when it's really cold out. Full closed is far more important)

Advance Auto part # 74627 will get you the valve (comes in plastic or metal, either will do, though metal would be obviously a bit more durable)
 

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#2 ·
And the pic of the console from an earlier thread to give an idea for the cable mounting location. (spot is originally for power mirrors, but is just a plug/cap on Graduates)

Image
 
#4 ·
I make no such claim, and in fact still strip wires with my teeth :D
(I've long since cleaned up that nest over to the left there though among some other revisions/changes over the years)
 
#5 ·
Nice job, thanks for the tip.

Though when I first looked I thought why do all that just to save a few dollars. So i went and looked up the part. Bosch (0 280 140 140) goes for $350 to $450, Rock Auto has one made by Standard Motor Parts (AC-359) for about the same price. I found on at enginepartsrus.com for $211. The order system will let me add one to the cart but not two. Says not enough stock, so they have one left. If anyone needs and wants the part.

Some of the same package idle air control valves are way less. The GTV6/Milano is less than $100, some BMW's are less than $70. Shouldn't any similar product sized for a 2 liter engine do just fine. That thing can't work that precisely can it?

I think I remember reading someplace they can be adjusted. Anyone know for sure?

Still, a good work around.

Wayne
 
#7 ·
@ 86spider:

They can be adjusted a small amount, but it usually ends up being a sacrifice for more opening for easier starts, or more closing for harder starts but better control of the system. You can't do both.

In theory about anything that does that job could be swapped in as all it consists of is the vane/door, a bimetallic strip that closes the vane when it gets hot and a heating element to help it warm up a bit faster and thus close quicker. (on certain engines convection heat is a little bit long in coming, or at least longer than what you'de need during a cold start warmup)

Getting the bore size close would be a druther, and if it were a case of having only a choice of one bigger or smaller, I think I'd opt for smaller as you'd have to be in a really cold enviornment to get the thing to open fully. (as in it's not really all the neccisary in the grander scheme of things unless you regularly drive year round and it drops into the way low side of the thermometer)