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Discussion starter · #61 ·
I like the look of those RX7 4 pots - if someone gives me a pair I'll be happy to bolt em on :D - nice, but not cheap (popular upgrade, not just for Alfas).
 
Interesting read, I'm going through the same issue right now, but my goal is different. My goal is ample on track stopping power for a 400hp car. I'm guessing your goal is ample stopping power for a ROAD CAR (ie no 200KPH stops) for a car with 250Hp (guess). I have not paid much attention to why it is you don't just use the brakes that came with the car, but assuming you have a good reason for not doing this, your cheapest solution is a set of vented gtv6 rotors and brembo callipers, redrilled for 4 spot (that bit is not legal...your call).

you wont need more than that. You can mix and match pad compounds depending on what you are trying to achieve.

After that, got the 164 and volvo 4 pot calliper route. Slightly more expensive again will be the rx7 calliper and adapter to make the calliper fit (talk to volvo club boys in melb, they have an adaptor for the rx7 calliper which I am confident will also work on the Alfetta, given the cast 4pot bolts straight up).

Those are the two no brainer mods you should be considering. I paid 100 for a gtv6 brembo and disk with hub setup. There's nothing out there sheaper than than. Put a couple of seal kits thorugh it, new pads, redrill disks and you are done.

Personally, I will be going custom hats, 330mm vented rotors and 4*98 pcd (on blanks) with Volvo S60R callipers (150ea from wrecker, or 330ea from Volvo new).

You are not cutting corners on brakes by using Holden callipers etc, of course they will do the job, they are ugly as sin, but they will work. Hopper stoppers do keaps of brake upgrade kits using these callipers at very affordable pricing. They will pull up Alfetta's all day long.

Good luck.
 
from personal experience i felt that the v6 brembos that were on my car were not adeqaute for a track car, but for a road car yes (maybe the pads were ****) uprgrading to the volvos cost me about $150, $50 a caliper, $20 a rotor and $10 for the t-blocks (from a irs bmw) and a few brake lines of various lenghts and $0 for machine work. the pads only bight on 3/4 of the rotor (would bight fully on a giulietta upright) but the braking perfomance is fantastic even with the pads that were in the calipers, im currently upgrading to 164 rotors and a 164 mastercylinder which will be a perfect amount of braking power for a my future 200-250hp track car.
just my opinion but you cant beat the volvo upgrade for value,
i have a spair set of rotors and calipers machined to suit 4x98, and the rotors have been re-surfaced. for $250 if your interested?
cheers, Brad
 
Discussion starter · #65 ·
I have not paid much attention to why it is you don't just use the brakes that came with the car, but assuming you have a good reason for not doing this, your cheapest solution is a set of vented gtv6 rotors and brembo callipers, redrilled for 4 spot (that bit is not legal...your call).
I need to do quite a lot of "maintenance" on the brakes the car had. Just looking at whether there are other options.

I put redrilled vented 75 rotors on the car with the Commodore brakes already as a quick fix to pass a roadworthy some years ago. The mechanic in question didn't care/notice the redrill, did notice turbo rotors were thin and was very suspicious about the way the rotors mounted to the hats so was the easy/quick way out at the time. I was always going to get a set of rotors for the turbo hats as part of the resto. But the callipers, which probably could have done with a rebuild anyway, are even more in need of one (seized) after being underwater. So the restorer in me says - just replace like with like. The compulsive tweaker says - put bigger brakes on if they stay "in character" and have a low incremental cost.

It turns out I can't use the most interesting / authentic bit of the brake package I have (the separate hats arrangement) with a bigger rotor, so fiting later c'dore brakes would mean starting again for the whole package. Not doing that.

The Brembo 2 pots would be just fine with the hat+rotor but I'm actually a bit concerned the powers that be might even see that as a downgrade (as I suspect they are) from the C'dore callipers. OTOH - I believe the Giulietta Turbo ran this setup, so should be fine...

So I'm going to leave the 268mm (or there abouts) rotor size a constant - and buy a new pair of rotors for the hats (anyone have a recommendation for cheap "race brake" suppliers?).

So then its just down to what callipers will mount up and match up to that diameter.

Which is afaik:

2 pot brembos from a 75

early Commodore single piston (ie what the car had)

Volvo 4 pots

I don't see the point in anything much above that without a bigger rotor, and I can't find anything lighter and 4 pot that will fit without mucking about (those Austin Princess brakes are iron too btw).
 
Discussion starter · #66 ·
just my opinion but you cant beat the volvo upgrade for value,
i have a spair set of rotors and calipers machined to suit 4x98, and the rotors have been re-surfaced. for $250 if your interested?
cheers, Brad
Sounds excellent value. Nice scrounging with the parts prices too! I'm going to keep the original rotor setup though - so really I'm only after callipers and a set of rotors to suit the hats ie 268mm x 22mm with 6 x 6.4mm mounting holes on a 5.5" PCD.

So with that diameter the Volvo pads end up hanging off the edge of the rotor? I think you just convinced me to stick with the Commodore callipers.
 
Useful conversation. I have to admit to destroying a GTV6 back in 96 through poor brakes. Not enough maintenance and too ****y by half on a drying Eastern Creek track. 6 months work and several thousand dollars down the drain. That car was a fairly standard GTV6 with a 12-valve 3 litre, suspension and some R's. Really straight and with a nice front bumper - sad!

When I built the replacement it was a fully trimmed GTV6 with the same running gear but on standard rubbber, albeit 225/50 tyres on 7.5 inch front and 8 inch rear rims. I bought some Volvo calipers intending to fit them but never had to. In fact I'm pretty sure they're still in the garage somewhere.

It was Alan Goodall and the Beninca's who showed me that the trick to making the standard Brembo brakes work was to keep the fluid fresh and use decent pads. I bleed the brakes fully before each event and over 4-5 years of club sprints and including a couple of 6-hr events the brakes were fine. It used a few pads but not so many as to be annoying.

Sorry for the ramble. I guess the point is whatever you end up doing maintenance is really important if you're going to use the car hard.
 
So with that diameter the Volvo pads end up hanging off the edge of the rotor? I think you just convinced me to stick with the Commodore callipers.
Yes the front edge of the pads will hang off the rotor, to the point of being dangerous.
Greg Gordon had an Alfa (customer's or his own, I don't remember) fitted with Volvo 4 piston calipers on original sized rotors. Apparently the pads and probably the rotor too, wore so much that the outer edges of the pads actually touched together, rendering the front brakes near enough useless.
 
wait im confused? so v6 alfa rotors are the same as volvo ones? cause when using volvo rotors the pad doesnt make full contact either. it works but is risky and im not happy with it, thus changing to 164 rotors...
 
Darryl, saw your car last night at Impact. Looks great! Those doors came up a treat. I took a pic if you want me to post it.
 
Discussion starter · #71 ·
Darryl, saw your car last night at Impact. Looks great! Those doors came up a treat. I took a pic if you want me to post it.
Sure - post away - I really need to pick 1 forum to post in (haven't gone as mad as you and added my own site to the list mind you)....
 
Yeah I know, I was originally just posting on the BB, then started on the AROC Vic site, and then my own! Sucker for punishment.

Anyway here 'tis
 

Attachments

wait im confused? so v6 alfa rotors are the same as volvo ones? cause when using volvo rotors the pad doesnt make full contact either. it works but is risky and im not happy with it, thus changing to 164 rotors...
Don't worry, you're just confused because you are from Adelaide :p

Seriously though, Which Volvo ones? If your pads do not bite on the full rotor, cut the pads to the shape that does. Problem solved. Of course 164 rotors will improve things again being larger diameter.

I'd be amazed if the Volvo factory made pads that did not fit on the rotor they specced with the calliper....just does not make sense.

Sexy sedan, can't wait to se the colour.
 
If i didn't chime in. This page would have went total aussie. I just had to break it up. By the way. Nice car.
 
It's ok, I'm from Tassie, most people on the Mainland of Australia do not recognise Tassie as a state ofAustralia :). Actually Adeladian's are just Tasmanian's that could swim :).

Anyway, on the brake front, I think it's clear that 156 disks will fit on Alfettas as they seem to be the same as 164. Withe plentifull supply of 156's ni Aus, I suspect this would be a very very cheap brake upgrade when all is said and done.
 
It's ok, I'm from Tassie, most people on the Mainland of Australia do not recognise Tassie as a state ofAustralia :). Actually Adeladian's are just Tasmanian's that could swim :).

Anyway, on the brake front, I think it's clear that 156 disks will fit on Alfettas as they seem to be the same as 164. Withe plentifull supply of 156's ni Aus, I suspect this would be a very very cheap brake upgrade when all is said and done.

Mike you ever going to visit Mallala at all ?
 
Better get them brakes sorted on that rocket ship you call a GTV then .
Er herm, GT sir, GT. :p..Noticed you have an RB 2.0 S13, we just finished building my mates widebody RB25 GT30 S13...not much traction...grin factor high.

Anyway, how goes this project? We got a coat of paint yet? Decision on brake package? I'm dying to see this car come together.
 
Discussion starter · #80 ·
There is some slow progress on a few fronts. I bought an RJR transaxle to replace the stock Alfetta one. The idea was it would be a straight swap as I got RJ to supply with the non-isostatic selector shaft, gear drive speedo output. I'm reusing the alfetta clutch housing so no issues with talshaft-clutch input either. Output shaft compatibility was an area I was concerned about but after assurances that it would be fine it turned out not to be. Specifically, the flanges on the diff are for M10 bolts, but the CVs on (and of course the flanges on the Alfetta transaxle) take M8s. So now I need to find a set of bits to fit together while keeping the 4 stud wheel hubs.

Feel free to post here if you know how to do this, or there is a more detailed thread about the transaxle swap on alfagtv6 here (with pics of shafts for any of you into that kind of thing)...

I spent a bit of time getting a spare wheel well out of a 75 to repair the rusted out one.

Also grabbed 75 front calipers (so those of you horrified at the GM Holden Commodore sliding caliper option can breath easy for now)...
 
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