Thanks Pete (for the info and compliment).
A little progress update:
I'm always trying to be more methodical, picking a task (say, seal fitment) and sticking with it until it's done, but I've started to accept my bounce-around methodology. Touching everything once is a good way to remind myself of various fitment issues or missing parts I may not have had on my radar. Still, I'm following a generally back-to-front progression and have spent a lot of time on the trunk.
I refinished my gas tank inside and out with POR products (this was, oh, maybe 3 years ago ha). I had also purchased some butyl tape and closed cell foam to use as the perimeter seal. After test fitting the gas tank and installing new speednuts, I installed the seals. Butyl first, followed by closed cell self adhesive foam. Without the tank to retain the foam, it naturally wants to lift as it goes around corners, but I think I'll be able to keep it flat long enough to get the tank in.
Before I get the tank in I need to metal work the flange to be flatter than it is (not very) and cut the filler neck down some.
For the same 3 years I've also had a roll of McMaster-Carr sound and vibration deadening and double foil faced thermal barrier on my shelf. I suppose my thinking many years back was to re-create the performance of name brand thermo-coustic products in two layers. I suppose being an architect something about separating the performance for a floor assembly into constituient parts appeals to me. I started installing the dampener on the rear of the trans tunnel, this being a place with relatively simple curvature.
I believe this it the deadener: McMaster-Carr
When it comes to the firewall I'll probably switch to the alum faced product which is rated at a higher temp: McMaster-Carr
This is the double foil faced insulation: Amazon.com: ESP Low-E® EZ-Cool Car Insulation Kit(Includes 100 Sq. Ft Insulation, 25' Foil Tape): Heat and Sound Automotive Insulation For Your Car Restoration Projects: Automotive
Prior to having the car blasted I had it installed on the underside of the roof, it stayed in place beautifully with 3M spray adhesives applied to both metal and insulation.
The first layer - it conforms nicely to the e-brake contours, but asking it to follow the recesses in the sheet metal is more than it can handle. So far I don't believe strict adherence to these contours will impede anything - i believe them to be for drainage and strengthening not recesses for clearance.
The foil faced layer is just a loose test fit for now, as is the dampener on the floor.
I'm uncertain how to conceptualize the floors. The membrane is not and was never intended to operate like a flat roof, protecting the metal underneath. The factory version trapped water in the jute layer, so mine is already an improvement over that. I suppose the big question is how removable this wants to be for the purpose of emergency drainage. The product that Re-Originals sells (and Rossano used) seems to bond more entirely to the floor, leaving not space for water under it. Although my product bonds well, there is no way I can say for sure it wouldn't let water wick under it. So the fear is water gets in, then gets trapped under my vibration damper where I can't see it. I could just "tack" it down with a lite application of adhesive but then I have doubts it'll perform well as a damper. Am I over thinking it?
And a beauty shot.