Bare Metal Rebuild Phase III: Reassembly - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums

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post #1 of 257 (permalink) Old 11-19-2015, 08:34 PM Thread Starter
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Bare Metal Rebuild Phase III: Reassembly

Well its been three and a half years since I started Phase II of my bare metal rebuild and I'm finally at the stage I spent long hours in a dirty garage thinking about: reassembly. The milestone seemed to warrant a new thread. BIG THANKS to everyone who helped me along the way with advice, parts and enthusiasm. All appreciated equally!

I'm going to post my progress and many many questions here. I took tons of pictures at each phase but naturally there are always things I missed so let's get right down to it:

Any tips on routing the trunk latch cable? From the pull does it go between the wheel arch and inner wing as shown?

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In the trunk which direction does it take and does it pass under the sheet metal supports at the latch?

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A few glamour shots... amazing how it starts to look like a car.
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And something you never think of: nice to have a color that looks good with the brake lights! Incidentally - one of many parts I'm missing is the D/S tail light - holler if you have one.
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post #2 of 257 (permalink) Old 11-19-2015, 09:18 PM
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post #3 of 257 (permalink) Old 11-21-2015, 02:03 PM Thread Starter
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Can someone remind me if these holes in the floorplans have a purpose?
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post #4 of 257 (permalink) Old 11-21-2015, 06:38 PM
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maybe where they screwed the carpet down?
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post #5 of 257 (permalink) Old 11-29-2015, 11:37 AM Thread Starter
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My car came to me without carpets. I have a new set from Alfaholics - can someone remind me if the carpet tucks under the SS sills? If so how far under?
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post #6 of 257 (permalink) Old 11-30-2015, 08:45 AM
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Sorry for not being able to answer your holes question, my 1600 Junior 1975 Unificato (same shell) doesnt have these holes or at least i wasnt able to spot them.

Well what i wanted to ask is whether you could post a picture when you have the carpets in - im not sure whether i should be keeping my old ones now that I may see yours!

Thanks!
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post #7 of 257 (permalink) Old 11-30-2015, 08:49 AM
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Man you really did well to turn this car into a beauty. Hats off to you.

I do not know how much the carpet tucks under the rocker/sill ss trim but am sure it does.
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post #8 of 257 (permalink) Old 11-30-2015, 09:18 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Pete (for the info and compliment).

A little progress update:
I'm always trying to be more methodical, picking a task (say, seal fitment) and sticking with it until it's done, but I've started to accept my bounce-around methodology. Touching everything once is a good way to remind myself of various fitment issues or missing parts I may not have had on my radar. Still, I'm following a generally back-to-front progression and have spent a lot of time on the trunk.

I refinished my gas tank inside and out with POR products (this was, oh, maybe 3 years ago ha). I had also purchased some butyl tape and closed cell foam to use as the perimeter seal. After test fitting the gas tank and installing new speednuts, I installed the seals. Butyl first, followed by closed cell self adhesive foam. Without the tank to retain the foam, it naturally wants to lift as it goes around corners, but I think I'll be able to keep it flat long enough to get the tank in.

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Before I get the tank in I need to metal work the flange to be flatter than it is (not very) and cut the filler neck down some.

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For the same 3 years I've also had a roll of McMaster-Carr sound and vibration deadening and double foil faced thermal barrier on my shelf. I suppose my thinking many years back was to re-create the performance of name brand thermo-coustic products in two layers. I suppose being an architect something about separating the performance for a floor assembly into constituient parts appeals to me. I started installing the dampener on the rear of the trans tunnel, this being a place with relatively simple curvature.

I believe this it the deadener: McMaster-Carr
When it comes to the firewall I'll probably switch to the alum faced product which is rated at a higher temp: McMaster-Carr
This is the double foil faced insulation: Amazon.com: ESP Low-E® EZ-Cool Car Insulation Kit(Includes 100 Sq. Ft Insulation, 25' Foil Tape): Heat and Sound Automotive Insulation For Your Car Restoration Projects: Automotive

Prior to having the car blasted I had it installed on the underside of the roof, it stayed in place beautifully with 3M spray adhesives applied to both metal and insulation.

The first layer - it conforms nicely to the e-brake contours, but asking it to follow the recesses in the sheet metal is more than it can handle. So far I don't believe strict adherence to these contours will impede anything - i believe them to be for drainage and strengthening not recesses for clearance.

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The foil faced layer is just a loose test fit for now, as is the dampener on the floor.

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I'm uncertain how to conceptualize the floors. The membrane is not and was never intended to operate like a flat roof, protecting the metal underneath. The factory version trapped water in the jute layer, so mine is already an improvement over that. I suppose the big question is how removable this wants to be for the purpose of emergency drainage. The product that Re-Originals sells (and Rossano used) seems to bond more entirely to the floor, leaving not space for water under it. Although my product bonds well, there is no way I can say for sure it wouldn't let water wick under it. So the fear is water gets in, then gets trapped under my vibration damper where I can't see it. I could just "tack" it down with a lite application of adhesive but then I have doubts it'll perform well as a damper. Am I over thinking it?

And a beauty shot.

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post #9 of 257 (permalink) Old 11-30-2015, 09:53 AM Thread Starter
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After revisiting Rossano's thread and looking at what's available I'm leaning to the more original bitumen style sound deadening. It seems 3M makes a very similar product, texture included. I would still use the foil faced foam on top.

See our Scotchgard? Paint Protection Film products: 3M? Sound Deadening Pads 08840, 500 mm x 500 mm, 10 per case

These guys have the pads at a great price - $55 a case of ten. They were also very nice to speak to on the phone, so I took the plunge.

http://www.toolrage.com/prodview.asp?sku=3M-8840

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post #10 of 257 (permalink) Old 11-30-2015, 01:58 PM
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For optimum resonance damping, the word is that a close/tight/full-contact/glued/stuck to the metal is required. 100% coverage is not, but it is convenient to obtain something of a water resistant layer in the floor wells. Aluminium tape (the sort used for joining insulation material) on joins and around the edges should give additional protection against water seepage. After an unnoticed incident with spilled water it just sat on top of the Resomat I used for some days with no apparent seepage.
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post #11 of 257 (permalink) Old 11-30-2015, 05:59 PM
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I like the looks of that 3M product and the price is right compared to other products like Dynamat. I may join you and take advantage of some of their current discounts.

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post #12 of 257 (permalink) Old 11-30-2015, 06:07 PM Thread Starter
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Go for it. I like that it even has the diamond embossed pattern...

By the end of the week I should have a report on how it lays down.
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post #13 of 257 (permalink) Old 11-30-2015, 07:33 PM
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Boy that sure looks like the same product I got from Re-o....good find there. As for overthinking things.....we can all be accused of this at one time or another....in my case I was looking to replicate the original look and fit..this product seemed the closest.

...here's how it all looked on mine....prior to paint...

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post #14 of 257 (permalink) Old 11-30-2015, 07:52 PM
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I've used basic insulation, ducting and roofing products from your local building supply store. Very inexpensive and very effective. I've also used the Lizardskin products. A bit of a pain to apply, and I'm sure that it is not as effective as the standard dynamat type products.

STILL learning.

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post #15 of 257 (permalink) Old 12-01-2015, 01:04 AM
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if you use too thick insulation you will get into trouble fitting stuff like the center console. Also , carefully cut the holes for seatbelts etc. Or you will never find them.
So be careful out there.
Carpets will be a bugger to fit nice. Check out the stop bolt for the gas pedal too. But I would fit the headlining first, so everything stays clean and nice as you will be in and out the car dozens of times.
Then fit the heater. Then fit the sound deadening and the carpet. Seat belts. Wiring loom is simple, there isn't much. Then the dash. Center console etc. Seats very last.


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