Alfa Romeo Forums banner

41 - 60 of 363 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
474 Posts
Electrician's Tape/Bumpers

Here is standard electrical tape on my front bumper. Used 2 overlapping rows of standard width tape. Has been on for more than a year. Easy. Cheap. No likey- pull it off in 30 seconds.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,771 Posts
What's the offset on the rotas?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,854 Posts
Don't try the electrical tape! I have a roll of stuff I used when I had my Euro bumpers and was just like OEM. I'll ship you what I have left.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
I need a spare headrest grommet (5 inch long black plastic piece) anyone have one not broken???? PM me
PM sent
I probably have what you need; got an extra pair of seats in the garage. Is it the bezel where the wood of the headrest goes into the top of the seatback?

I have to say your posts and project are very inspiring. I have two project Alfetta's that have been languishing for some time, one (my first Alfa, purchased in 1992) destined to be a track car and the other a full resto. Once I get done with the Lambretta scooter I'm restoring, work on the track car (still in the garage) will resume.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,546 Posts
Discussion Starter #49 (Edited)
PM sent.

Finished up the hard work today. Driveshaft rebuild.

here how to do it.

1) remove all pieces and mark alignment well before taking apart

2) rebuild shaft with new center support (face the correct way) I had to peen the slinger because prior repair pinched off the split bushing and wore a groove in the bushing and the slinger got involved and was way loose (makes a bell like rattling sound) had to peen the slinger to get it tight again. Press in new center bearing with shop press NOT a bench vise. Has to go in very straight and due to rubber in hole, it is somewhat easy to press in crooked

3) tips for remova of driveshaft :

exhaust off, exhaust shield off. Undo ALL the nuts and bolts at rear guibo, remove shift housing and let drop down(DO NOT have to remove the shift knob or rod to the knob) , tilt rear engine mount down as far as possible, and you should have removed the shift link rod already(take off two nuts on trans arm...easier to get to), remove three nuts from front guibo going to flywheel, remove nuts from center support and pull it down and off the bolts

4)You may have to remove the driveshaft in two pieces, or maybe not.

5) Large screwdriver to gently pry the driveshaft forward at the rear guibo. Since you have ALL the nuts and bolt off, it should pop outeasily off the trans input shaft. might have to rotate the shaft a little . Leave yoke in place.

Rebuild:

1) rebuild the center support as needed. Install front center and rear guibo APPROPRIATELY with locks in holes and facing the correct way. torque down center and front nuts, rear nuts and bolts go on after install

2) rotate flywheel so the ONE bolt is in the most inferior position and with some elbow grease, get the whole shaft back in place. don't conect the center support or rear engine support until the rear guibo is in place.

3) I reshimmed the rear engine mount with some poly and bits of old radiator hose as the mount was nearly gone.

4) almost completely tighten front and rear guibo nuts and center mount and rear engine mount, cut guibo clamps, replace the shifter housing(one bolt for now) and rod, run the engine in neutral with a few revs to set everything, then torque down front and rear guibo nuts nuts.

5) bolt down shifter housing and complete tightening of the center support and the rear engine mount and rebuild the rest of the underside bits.


Driveshaft went in much easier than it came out. I have not done an Alfetta shaft in 20 years. much easier on gtv6 with removeable center support.....
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,546 Posts
Discussion Starter #50 (Edited)
Out of the garage, finally. I used two inch wrap, one roll of 50 ft, I kept the extra. Use stainless clamps. all from Summit racing. Key is to soak the wrap in water first, then it stretches a litlle and dries tight. You have to prewrap to get the correct length, which is a pain.

took her for a quick open exhaust spin up and downt he block..WOW! NICE!

no bad shaft vibrations.

next on list:
1) door handles if I can find a working set with key....
2) headrests
3) front door panels
4) headliner

I want to take this opportunity to thank the members of this board who have helped me out with their spares. You know who you are. I could not have (almost) completed the alfetta without your help.
Cheers!
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
815 Posts
xray,

I´ve been following this thread and it´s a great effort you are doing and the car is really awesome:D

I read your driveshaft procedure and it is very useful as I have only found info on gtv6s which should be similiar, but I found that for example alfettas don´t have the "pinch bolt" at the front flywheel/giubo. I am in the middle of a driveshaft rebuilt (the shaft is out and I am waiting for the giubos to arrive) and your re-install procedure seems the way to go.

I have read on Greg´s site and your "how to" that the engine should be run in neutral, at idle and some reving so the giubos and driveshfat settle. How important is this? How tight should everything be bolted in the giubos and support to allow this settling of the parts?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,546 Posts
Discussion Starter #52 (Edited)
Hey THANKS!

yep, no pinch bolt and no removeable crossmember makes the job much more fun!

I snug up everything (three front guibo nuts and 6 rear guibo nuts so no play) BUT not torqued down.

also, I already torqued the middle guibo before install (you may want to torque after install) to make my life easier

it is important to settle in the front and rear (and probably the middle), but I can gaurantee that this was not done at the factory. too much effort. probably , they just installed a balanced shaft (preassembled, before the transaxle went in)

you will never achieve a very balanced unit with rubber parts, but you can get nearly vibration free.

be sure to mark your driveshaft at middle section BEFORE removal with good marks. this means front section, yoke, and rear section. it should not matter how driveshaft conects to the trans or front flywheel as these are already balanced units.

if you find that you have big imbalance, you are in for some work. you can't simply rotate front and rear section. it will take some effort to find the original correct position of the front/rear/yoke. you can use a big hose clamp on one section and rotate position of screw to try to balance or you can take whole unit to machine shop and have balanced.

I generally find that new guibos solve most imbalance issues

you will need a small puller and inside ring clip tool to repair driveshaft. be very careful assembling front and rear sections so as not to destroy seal or damage bearings.

VERY good write up in Haynes manual alfa romeo sedan and coupe 73-80
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
815 Posts
I snug up everything (three front guibo nuts and 6 rear guibo nuts so no play) BUT not torqued down.
I know 3 bolts hold front & rear giubos to driveshaft, and 3 to the flywheels. If I catch it up correctly, I should not snug the 3 nuts that go to the flywheel on the front and I should do it at the rear.

Very interesting input you give xray. I had the engine rebuilt and the driveshaft went in with "new" giubos (changed them 4 years ago and had very little mileage on them) and had no vibration at all. While I was breaking-in the engine and donde somo 800km I found a giubo chunk, and it was the front. My mechanic and I took the driveshaft down and confirmed it was the front, the giubo was really tough rubber whilst the middle (changed during engine rebuilt) was soft, and the rear was also tough. I am going to change the front and rear while the driveshaft is out.

I must mention that the driveshaft was previously balanced, and I was told it was balanced in two pieces, but I always make sure they mark the driveshaft in case it should be taken apart.

I will try to get a Haynes manual, I do have the original Alfetta manual, but doesn´t mention nothing regarding the settling of the giubos.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,546 Posts
Discussion Starter #54 (Edited)
the guibos are generally a good fit to the bolts at the fly and trans. I would still snug up both ends otherwise you have to get under the car three times (front snug,rear snug, final tightening). And by snug I mean tight, but not torqued. if loose, it won;t settle, it will wobble.

Really, it will probablly make little difference overall to the balance, but why not try to settle the driveshaft into place.

I find that on the GTV6, you absolutely have to run the driveshaft to settle in the pinch bolt.

ALSO, be sure that the rear is jacked up by the dedion tubed so that it is as if the car is on the ground. NOT by the frame as the driveshaft angle will be wrong when you tighten it up.

ALSO: your three engine mounts need to be in good shape. Less movement of engine means less angulation at flywheel guibo.

I have found that the most beat up guibo (IMHO) is always almost the front. Is that because people are lazy and don't change it? or is it more often the taking more force from the engine? I don;t know...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,546 Posts
Discussion Starter #55
Calistripes #103003 1in black. Autobody pinstripes. fits perfectly. 50 ft so some extra. ~20$ with shipping. much better look to the bumps..
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,546 Posts
Discussion Starter #58 (Edited)
Thanks! EU bumpers are for sale fairly often on ebayUK, ebayeu, and ebayit. That's where I got mine...

depends how much you want to pay....and sometimes, you have to grab what you see and hope you can get the rest of the set....

and I started emailing alfa parts guys on ebay to see if they could find a set..

for example here is one:

http://cgi.ebay.it/LAMA-PARAURTI-POSTERIORE-A-R-ALFETTA-GTV-ORIGINALE-/110462910526?pt=Ricambi_automobili&hash=item19b81a403e

look under 'alfetta paraurti' in italian
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Yeah, it's often a case of 'you snooze, you lose...' For example, for years I have wanted to do a Twin Spark conversion and there was a guy in Italia selling complete 75/Milano units on ebay US for $1800 for two...he doesn't do it anymore because import restrictions have got a bit tighter. Shoulda, coulda, woulda...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,854 Posts
What is the restriction on importing a twin spark engine? Seems to me that you can just tell them you are using it on a race car. What do they know. They don't even know how to spell Alpha Romero.
 
41 - 60 of 363 Posts
Top