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Discussion Starter #23
some updates:
Interior out for repair/recover w/leather
All wiring redone to OE specs and EVERYTHING works, new stalk switch
welded and painted rear panel, fixed light housings, new lenses
Nardi wheel, new shift and brake boots
two ton bumpers removed..Euro stainless going on soon as I fab the mounts

Han nice visits with two local Alfetta guys. still planning for spring get together...have to wait until my interior is done..

2 more big projects:
driveshaft overhaul
exhaust
maybe synchros...eeesh
 

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Wow! you've been busy. Did you get the front suspension sorted out? Looking forward to seeing you in the spring. I have to sort out a few things before the drive from Pittsburgh. She seems to be running a bit rich. Today I am going to replace the front brake pads. I got a set of Repco Metalmasters off Ebay.

Regards,

Ruben
 

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Discussion Starter #25
yep all done except new caster rod bushings. I know I have a new set around here somewhere...still have a way to go though...
 

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Discussion Starter #26
another nice rainy day in north east ohio...yeah...

so had some time to work on the fetta:

1) removed old exhaust, what a pain in the d*ck
2) installed rear part of 'new' exhaust (see pic) had to drop the trans a few inches. another pain in the d*ck
3) replaced L and R engine mounts. Major pain in the d*ck. the new mounts were slightly taller than the old ones (no not because the rubber is new, the metal parts are slightly taller). Lots of prying and shifting, but went in OK with a 2x4 and a mallet.
4) repaired left mount heat shield
5) repaired the hood hinges and spring mounts. the sheet metal here was all jangled and bent from some dope shutting the hood and catching the spring on a broken spring guide. ugly.
6) new outside headlights. the hella H4 ones fit, the cheap chinese ebay ones in the red and white box don't fit.
7) test fit the new CSC headers (had to use a hydraulic spreader to spread the inner tubes a little bit, then went on just fine..from Performatek)

got a set of new (really, new) front spoilers OEM. to be installed soon. 1/4 in rivets fit the alfa holes perfectly. bought a harbor freight rivet gun (get the bigger one) AWSOME. works every time.

The center ANSA muffler I bought off someone a few months back weighs a ton and is going in the trash. However, the rear muffler is well made and reasonably weighted. stock cat was on the car but has been hollowed out. there is a center resonator, not sure if I will use or not.
 

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FWIW: My coupe didn't have the center resonator, and it was L.O.U.D., being that I live in a densely packed city - I set off car alarms everywhere I went, and was twice pulled over for being too loud (but never actually ticketed!). So, depending on your needs/location, you may want to consider that...

But I'm really pleased to see another person giving lots of love and attention to an Alfetta - they really are wonderful cars.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I will probably leave the center resonator as it is in nice shape and welded to a good piece of pipe with hangar hooks going to the rear.

as for the muffler, sorry Italcarnut, cut up to fit in trash bin. Don't feel like you missed out because this thing weighed about 25-30 lbs and was pretty badly rusted
 

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Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
New problem:

started right up. I parked it. an hour later engine won't start.

1) excellent compression
2) injector timing, cam timing, distributor timing all lined up correctly. Very good spark all plugs. new plugs. charged battery.
3) all SPICA links adjusted to baseline and correctly spaced SPICA arm
4) new spark plug wires, new coil

problem is flooding with fuel(running out of throttle bodies). is there a way to adjust the cold start solenoid to decrease the amount of fuel?

I tried disconnecting it and taking out the plugs to dry out the engine, but no start.....

I get a few pops and sputters

I searched the board and found a few tips. ... likely a sticky solenoid. Need to do some extra wiring on the solenoid and add a dash switch and relay.
 

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Discussion Starter #31 (Edited)
Ok ..so this post starts with a big OOOOOPS!

What I thought was correct timing was not! That's what I get for checking things late night...

1) Anyway, took the cam cover off again and noticed the intake cam was about one tooth off
2) closer inspection revealed that the injection pump timing was not correct (not set to 'I')
3) the dizzy was 180 out!

OK so to adjust the cams, no big deal TDC and unhook chain and set cams and hook up chain and tension and turn and recheck...all OK

next was the injector pump. pull the pulley, set the timing, put back together..belt breaks..old an rotten. Had a spare so no big deal... (why did I not plan to change it...well, it's a PITA to get the crank nut off)

so..had to peen back the retaining ring after making a shapr edged tool. Had to run to store to buy 1 in extension for the 1 inch impact gun. three stores later (sears has them) I am home. You can just get the socket on and jack the engine up about one inch, and run the extension out the front grill. one blast on the number 2 setting and off came the nut! yeah.

new injector belt placed and injector timed correctly.

Now the third problem. why is timing out 180. rotate the crank you say? NOPE. seems the engine was reassembled with the dizzy gear in wrong position so no matter what, it only lined up correctly with cam lobes pointing inward. so how to fix without major work..

Well, take the dizzy out. remove spring at dog gear, push out pin, and reverse assembly 180 degrees. spring on, back in and all is good!

hook up a few thing, 80 amp alternator and some new wiring, new plug wires and coil, eliminating the resistor and the voltage regulator, and clear all tools.

ONE HALF crank later, engine running like a champ! I turned off and waited a few minutes. tried again. 1/2 crank later running like a champ!!

WOOHOO!!

So basically, the SPICA system was way out of wack, the electrical was 180 out, and the fuel was not timed correctly. No wonder it did not start when I got it! the mechanic or PO put the plug wires on opposite order, so when I changed leads and put them on the correct order, it did not run. cheesey repair..

I am really impressed by how well she started.

new leather interior on the way. radiator all cleaned and painted and ready to go. engine rebuild in a year or so....

now for that 2nd gear synchro...
 

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Discussion Starter #32 (Edited)
Update:
Family Alfa day and we got a lot done. My dad came out to visit and was a big help in the rebuild.

1)'New' radiator installed
2) New hoses
3) repaired radiator shoulder washers
4) Installed probably the last set of new old stock OE front spoilers
5) rewired high/low beams with 40amp relays
6) new driver side headlight bucket
7) new outside H4 headlights
8) made an aluminum hood catch for spring
9) new hood prop rod catch
10) installed hood
11) installed my original metal center grill (saved from my first car ever..77 Alfetta) and new center emblem

still waiting on interior....
...and set of panasports...and 205 tires...
 

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Quick question - what did you use to attach the spoilers? I know rivets are original, but I'm trying to figure out whether screws might be a better choice.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
rivets

drilled out originals carefully, with front grill and front wheel well guards removed, getting to the rivet backs, it was then easy to pull them out with pliers, primered any bare metal

off ebay: 1/4 inch aluminum rivets (3/4? or 1in length) get two boxes ~20 in each

pneumatic rivet gun from harbor freight (awesome..but make sure to get the bigger one)

backed with 1/4 stainless washers
 

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Discussion Starter #38 (Edited)
Santa comes early....

yeah, I know, not a pretty weld...other side nicer....

wheels are ~8in wide and 205 55's G sports are ~8.5 wide, leaving about 1/2-3/4 inside tire to body. similar clearance to wheel well lip.

New poly bushings on Watts so should not be any rub

you can see where PO's tires rubbed on second pic..no real OE bushing support, nearly completely shot..
 

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Wow - great project! I honor you for the expertise and effort. Where do you find the time? I noticed in the one engine photo that you have the exhaust headers wrapped - to keep engine bay and component temps down, is that why? Also, I noted in the same picture that there is not vertical fins, surface ribs on your engine block that appear on the engine in my car - wonder why there is a difference?

Cheers
8oclock
 

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Discussion Starter #40 (Edited)
Thanks for compliment, 8oclock!

Vertical fins? post a pic.

Who knows..maybe my block came out of an older car. Head has recently been redone.

Header wrap to keep temps down. You can bump your hand on the headers and not get burned, too.

Some updates.

1)Rear bumper mounts finished. Interior almost all back, except headrests. I need a spare headrest grommet (5 inch long black plastic piece) anyone have one not broken???? PM me

2) wheels on. Perfect fit. However, One rim arrived bent, so will see how that works out. Good thing I had two spares.....
3) some minor issue fitting rota front wheel caps. just remove wire and file down the wire retainer plastic and they fit right in.

4) light camel leather seating surface and vinyl surround. Seats and panels are awesome now.

some 1 inch black tape for bumpers would help break up the metal look, but I don't want to use electrical tape, it will sag in the summer heat......any ideas??
 

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