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Discussion Starter #1
Looking for a steering box and a rear license plate bracket for a '64 2600 touring spider (and yes, I do believe in Santa Claus and the Great Pumpkin too). I'd appreciate any help in this mythical quest...

Joe
 

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Parts for steering box

You probably need just the worm and the roller. AFRA has them in Milan for an arm an a leg, but I believe a good tear down and weld with high tempered steel and grinding will do the same job. Are you sure you need a new one, or just want to get rid of a "flat" spot or the "notch". All rest of parts are just b earings and seals -- available from usual Yankee parts house. Who do you know who can weld decently and then can hard surface after grinding? Could probably save $750.00 or more instead of buying from AFRA. Try the website and see they offer worm and roller as a special remanufactured part.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, twoliterlover

Thanks for the info re: 2600 steering box. My Alfa doctor says the alternative to new steering box is re-chroming components, which sounds like what you're suggesting, too. If that's a reliable long term fix, perhaps I don't need a new box. And, if it saves me $750.00, my belief in Santa Claus is well-founded...
Thanks again,
Joe
 

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NO, NOT rechroming

That would be a total waste and probably not work at all. I've done about ten so far. Whole box must be disassembled and an arc welder used to put high strength weld into the notches broken into the case hardening on the worm and roller. These then they have to be ground down on a wheel to be even with the rest of the surfaces, and then the box put back together with NEW bearings and new seals. But rechroming would be a total waste. The notches that come out of the worm and or roller create the "flat spot" and the "jerk" that eventually pulls the whole box off of the frame. Happens when the box runs without oil. Or, as I said, you can buy just worm and roller from AFRA.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Another fine mess averted - hopefully

Just got your message. Sounds like the good doctor and I will have to review the treatment plan tomorrow. Thanks again for the sage advice.
Joe
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Jay,
Checked into re-machining worm and roller, but no one around here (Reno, NV) will touch it due to liability issues. So, I broke down and ordered steering box overhaul kit (including worm & roller) from AFRA. Set me back 531 Euros (about 730 USD) including shipping, but it's worth it to get this buggy back out on the open road (and it was still less than the 5 new 165R400's I picked up through Coker Tires).
So, thanks again for your ideas and the AFRA tip.
Joe
 

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Not in all of Reno?

Joe. I don't know whether to say "I'm sorry" or "Great". One thing for sure, that your steering won't have the terrible "notch" feel. But the dollar cost is 1 and a 1/3 per Euro. I seem a bit too tight to spend that. However, I have no boxes apart right now and I am lazy. Now that you do not need the old worm and roller, I could use them to do a photo layout for us two liter and 2600 guys (1900 box is not too different in this regard either) about how to weld these and grind them. You apparently have no access to the greatest welder in the world like I do -- DAVE DAY, "Aluminum Head Welders" in Auburn, WA -- who first carefully analizes exact metal composition of what he welds EVERY TIME so it comes out perfect. This worm and roller problem is endemic for us owners, so I think the photo sequence of fixing this would be interesting. Hardest part, frankly, is getting the worm off the shaft. Need a good press. Putting back together involves heating the worm and cooling the shaft -- easy. By the way, I always put the shaft and worm together before trying to grind. No way a person can file the hard steel that has to be used. Be sure to use all four NEW oil seals -- front, rear, top and bottom -- when reassembling the box. Don't bother ordering them from AFRA and paying for the price of having them shipped back to the US (where they were probably made). Why pay to have them shipped both ways. Seals are all matters of measurements, not part numbers. They interchange. A good old Yankee parts house or, better yet, a bearing store that stocks bearings for lots of uses, will have appropriate seals. Just take in the old ones and have them measure them. Just like bearings, the brand is not important. What is important is the size. And use good old regular real end grease -- EP 90 -- in the box and watch to see nothing leaks. The lack of lubrication is what kills these worm and rollers. They go dry when the car sits and the oil seeps by the seals -- especially the bottom one. Is worst when the steering is too loose. Buy new seals anyway. You other guys catching this thread, go carefully take off the top of your boxes (four bolts, and the adjuster loosened so it will later slip off and back on and be tightened down again) and check to be sure it is full, as far full as you can get it. Look for notches on the worm and roller while you are at it. You can "live" with a single one, but not two that line up with each other, or a place that is more than a momentary contact. But flat spot to flat spot (or notch to notch) will eventually lock up the box and the turning forces will break the area around the steering box.

You 2600 guys are lucky. You can use regular EP 90 rear end grease in gear boxes too ALTHOUGH TWO LITER MUST USE ONLY SHELL DENTAX 90 in its gear box. Two liter has brass synchros are softer than later moly rings and collars used in 2600 and 105 series onward. EP 90 has additives that make it much more slippery so that the synchros are needed held just a bit longer and wear out faster than when using the right Dentax 90which is straight mineral oil WITHOUT ADDITIVES. Believe me, I've tried all combinations -- straight non detergent 30 weight engine oil, molycote tubes, powdered graphite -- you name it (but on different cars through the years, not my old 10204*00126) That box did not need second gear synchro replaced until the car reached almost 250,000 miles. But, I confess, then I converted to moly rings and collars because I was having trouble getting full 90 weight Dentax. The dealer has 85/90 and it was just a hair thinner. Didn't like that. Anyway, send me your old pieces, "si placet" or please or if it pleases you, or if you will. Call me at (425) 641-2600. Your car must be enjoyable by now. Hope it is not breaking you up in business. Buying parts from AFRA is expensive to the max. No everybody does that. Maybe its safer? I can't believe that. Someone made the parts in the first place. Jay
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Jay,
Thanks for the info on lubricants - I definitely want this new steering box to hang around for awhile! You're lucky to have a great welder/machinist up there. And, sure, I'll be happy to send you the old worm and roller. It'll be interesting to see your posts as you document the resurrection process. I'll try to call you in the next couple of days to make the shipping arrangements. Take care,
Joe
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well, the worm and roller arrived from AFRA - very quickly, too. Four days from Milan to Reno! Only problem is I can't find a steering gear bearing to replace the old one (which is pretty pitted and corroded). Seals were no problem finding, but none of the parts stores or bearing houses have cage and roller bearings this size. Not sure if AFRA carries them, but will try after they return from summer holiday. Anybody know of another source for these bearings (need two of them)?
Thanks,
Joe
 

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Tavola 76 scans from parts book for Gemmer steering box

as used on the Alfa 2600 cars circa 1963
I am curious if Gemmer of France was related to Gemmer USA
Can't find any info on that or what happened to either one.
In the meantime ... here are the scans from the parts book
 

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