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Front tires are on ramps rated to 2000 pounds each (harbor freight), rear is on stands rated to 6 tons each (also harbor freight). Yikes! getting under a car being held up by stuff from Harbor Freight makes me a bit "apprehensive". Rear stands are on the shackles (???). I am a chicken at heart so wondering if I should feel safe getting under this car? Not looking for guarantees just opinions. I may make a few wooden blocks just in case . . . . .
 

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The Harbor Freght jack stands are OK, especially the larger ones. But the front on ramps I don't go for. It would take a small amount of $$ more investment to buy a second set of jack stands like the first and then be better assured nothing will try to roll off the ramps and pull the jack stands over in the process. (with you under it at the time).
 

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I get under my 1 ton truck with the same jack stands all the time.

I would not trust the ramps if they are plastic. I have 2 pair of welded angle iron I have used for 30+ years.
Bob
 

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Consensis opinion seems to be that your set up is OK. So maybe it is just me being overly cautious. An older acquaintence of mine used his small farm tractor to lift his large farm tractor for a crawl under repair. The rig fell and dropped the large tractor on him. It was a closed casket funeral.
 

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I don't like the (pressed steel?) ramps, do they flex at all?

I have several sets of very similar Jack stands and they're perfectly safe when placed correctly (ie. Not under a rusty floor or sill).

What work are you doing?
 

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Robert-I understand the overly cautious approach. I did some really stupid stuff as a youngster. Fortunately the '62 Chev pickup just crushed my toolbox.
I often throw some extra stuff under the car if I'm doing some serious yanking.
ALWAYS bounce, push, and pull on the car before you get underneath.
 

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ALWAYS bounce, push, and pull on the car before you get underneath.
I second that advice. I also agree that spiderrick's pictured set-up seems OK.

It would be better to support the car from the body, rather than from the suspension. That way, as you push/pull on components, the suspension can't move and possibly cause something to slip (and no, I don't see anything that might slip in spiderrick's set-up). So 4 jackstands, each under the body/chassis (like the jacking points) would be my "belt and suspenders" solution.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I gave it a push from all the corners and it seems sturdy. But just in case my wife is strong enough to push it over while I am under it, I think I'll add some fabricated 2 x 8 wood stacks / cradles sized and placed accordingly.

I need to loosen the trans and the necessary exhaust components to pull the engine and transmission.
 

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The Harbor Freght jack stands are OK, especially the larger ones. But the front on ramps I don't go for. It would take a small amount of $$ more investment to buy a second set of jack stands like the first and then be better assured nothing will try to roll off the ramps and pull the jack stands over in the process. (with you under it at the time).
I have to agree with Robert.

I feel the old adage "a chain is only as strong as it's weakest link" may apply here.

The weight of the automobile is over 2,600 pounds, yet the two front ramps are each rated less than that.

I suppose you could assume that the car's weight is going to be distributed evenly over all 4 supports, but do you want to stake your life on it?

A pair of 1-1/2 ton jack stands are under $50. Pretty cheap life insurance.

Every support I use is rated at more than the entire weight of the automobile.

Just my 2 cents...
 

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I place two jack stands at each side at the rear, and a hydraulic jack under the front crossmember to supplement the single jack stands at the front.
 

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I did it like this when I was working on the rear suspension bushings:
2015-03-16 10.38.05.jpg

2015-03-16 10.37.49.jpg

First drove it onto the ramps and put the car on the handbrake/left it in gear. Then I put ratchet straps around the wheels and the ramps. Then put off the handbrake/put the car in neutral in order to let rig setle (otherwise it might want to move when you are lifting the on the jack). Then jack up the car and put axle stands under the jacking points.
 

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I have been using identical ramps for about 20 years and never had a problem with cars below 3000 lbs - no visible deflection. When the car is properly located on the ramps it is very stable. I feel a pair of ramps under the front tires and a pair of jack stands on the back is more stable than 4 jack stands.

Watch out using a hydraulic jack without other support; an old jack is likely to have internal leakage that will allow it to slowly retract. Don't get trapped!
 

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I have used the same configuration as you do, but I have two floor jacks. I place one jack under the diff and the other under the crossmember or oil pan cage to catch just in case. Since I am pretty large I have been know to accidently kick at a jack stand when trying to get leverage.

Just be aware of your surroundings.
 
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