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Discussion Starter #1
Been looking around for a good oil to start using on my 2.5l Milano. Found this and I'm just wondering if anyone has experience with it or if it would even be a good oil to use. https://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-20W-50-VR1-Racing-Motor/dp/B00DJ4FIPQ/ref=asc_df_B00DJ4FIPQ/?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid={creative}&hvpos={adposition}&hvnetw=o&hvrand={random}&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl={devicemodel}&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584070138115268&psc=1
I look forwards to see what you think!
 

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Valvoline doesn't recommend this oil for normal daily driving, as it doesn't have the recommended levels of detergents used for keep the engine insides clean. It is ok otherwise, have used it before, but stopped when I read the above. While there are more than a few choices, many use the Mobil 1 15W-50, as it has in it the recommended levels of the zinc compounds for protection of flat tappets and cam lobes. I buy it off of eBay for a relatively ok price rather than buying at a higher price at a brick and mortar store.

Others will offer other brands. As usual, owner's choice.
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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Yeah, just use the Mobil1 15W50. It's the right weight and has the proper ZDDP levels for flat tappets.

As Del said, VR1 isn't a good choice for a street engine.
 

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Ok. So that would be the full synthetic? I was doubtful because that's all I could find and I've seen people recommend that you stay away from full synthetic.
 

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Formulated for race engines, but compatible with passenger vehicles too.
I believe calling it 'racing oil' is mostly marketing (they can get more money for it that way...). Valvoline also has a line of true racing oils - in black containers. The true racing oils are the ones with minimal detergents and other additives as it is expected that race engines will have the oil changed frequently (like after every race weekend).
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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Ok. So that would be the full synthetic? I was doubtful because that's all I could find and I've seen people recommend that you stay away from full synthetic.
It's fine. "Synthetic" is mostly just a marketing term now. It used to mean something more specific, but nowadays pretty much any oil can techncially be called synthetic. If you want to read about all the different types of base oil groups there's a ton of info on the web, e.g.:

https://blog.amsoil.com/are-all-synthetic-oil-groups-the-same-group-iii-vs-iv-vs-v/

Folks who say "stay away from full synthetic" are both living in the 1970s and also don't know what they're talking about.
 

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What does the owner's manual recommend?
 

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I've used this VR-1 20w/50 in my own car but use Millers CSS 20w/60 these days because we stock it in work so I can just pick a can off the shelf.

Never had any problems with either oil and the original Twinspark has well over 200,000 miles on it now so not sure why you shouldn't use it in a daily driver! The car has covered 100,000 of those miles in my hands in the last 11 years and used to do 90 miles a day which is as "daily" as you can get.
 

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Only going by what Valvoline says. Maybe it depends on how often one changes the oil? Owners can do anything they want.
 

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I have over 200K miles on these engines and have used a variety of oils. Mobil 1 is a good option, but have also had good success with Shell's Rotella. It's a diesel oil, so has a bit more detergent. Significantly cheaper.

Lately I have been running Exmark Premium engine oil. It is designed for Air Cooled engines, therefore has more viscosity stabilizers. Also has the ZDDP levels for flat tappets. Full synthetic (there are differences, and yes nearly anything can be called a synthetic blend). I work with the guy who controls the formula, so I trust the consistency. Consumer pricing makes it competitive with the oils Hemmings offers, but since I get employee discounts, it is competitive with conventional oils.

I have found that Mobil 1 finds its way past the seals a little easier than Exmark or Rotella.
 
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