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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Here's my conundrum - do I do a half-assed job with this door and just fiberglass it, fill it and paint it, with the expectation I'll totally replace it with a solid door once I find one, OR do I repair it? One estimate from a shop was $500, WAY more than I'd expect to pay for a replacement. I could also attempt to undertake the job myself and spend months on it, spending far less but possibly ruining it in the process.

I should mention this is not the original door. The rest of the car is mostly rust free, aside from the tail light surrounds (still trying to work that out) and behind the front fenders.

Pics...

Exterior, beneath window scraper trim...


WIndow frame joint...


Bottom of door...




Door frame, lower...

 

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"Too-rusty" seems to depend on where you are located. In the northeast (I am originally from Massachusetts) that'd be considered nearly rust-free!

Many years ago I needed to repair frame rust on my MGA. I took it to a few shops and got quotes for many hundreds of dollars (1970 dollars...). Instead I decided to take a welding class at the local technical school and then I bought myself an arc welder. Total cost for the class plus the welder was less than the quoted repairs. Thus I gained a skill and a tool for less than paying someone to fix it. Still have the MGA & the welder (plus I've since bought a MIG welder).

So, why not learn to fix it yourself & gain a skill?
 

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I was going to say where's all this rust of which you speak? :) As ghnl says, up here that is a rust free door! For easily replaceable stuff like doors I'd just replace it rather than repair it and save the repair for stuff you can't just swap out like floor pans and the like.

Kevin
 

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That does not look bad to me. I'd say fix it, but then again if you can find a perfect one cheap ...
 

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C'mon, get the welder out and give it a go. You know you want to. If you don't like the result, then swap in a new one.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm going to give it a shot, but I'm still looking to locate a Plan B, should this all go horribly awry. Alfasick, what do you have? The quote I got was for 8-10 hours at $50 an hour. Th shop owner recommended just replacing it though, as he figured I could get a new door for about the quarter that cost. So there's my starting point... and I'm fully expecting shipping of a 60 lb door from Portland would likely be more than the door itself!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It's drivers side for an '82.

That's definitely not out of range! I wonder what slow-boat shipping might cost? The stripped door probably weighs, what... 60-70 pounds at most? Maybe send standard freight? I'm planning to make a go at repairing my door this weekend. If I **** it up or just decide it's to far beyond my skill level (although most of the repairs are hidden either by the door card or are beneath the door, so fit and finish isn't too big a concern), I'll let you know.
 

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Not bad...you don;t have any plants growing out of it. 500$ include paint? seems close in price of a used door needing paint,too.... a good shop and you will never know the difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I should have added ages ago that I stripped with a cup brush, sprayed with rust remover (the burly stuff from the auto body supply store) and sprayed with self etching primer. I think it looks a little better in the photos than it actually is! Cosmetically, the first photo represents the most work. It might be tough to break the spot welds holding the outer skin to the inner frame right at the bend, which is where the bulk of the rust lives. However, the window seal trim piece should cover the majority of that, so if i's not perfect, no one ever has to know.

I THINK I can tackle this.
 

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Chairmankaga,Hows the door project? I have two real nice driver doors & two pass doors +++ other sheet metal including an entire car to cut apart , it's rear panel is nearly rust free.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I've gotten the exterior, visible rust mor or less cleaned up. I'm still not totally impressed with my welding skills, but it'll do. Almost invisible, with just a little waviness from trying to flatten it out perfectly with dolly and hammer. Another skillset that could use some work.

Sent you a PM re: the rear panel, Alfasick!
 
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