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Discussion Starter #1
I've been putting off replacing the AC compressor. Now, since I have to replace leaking water pump, this has turned into a project. New pump, hoses, painting/cleaning parts, etc.
I have questions about crankshaft pully.
Do you take it off as a unit? Is there anything special about crank bolt? Will I need a puller once nut is off?

Also once I get it off the front crank seal will be staring me in the face. I have a new one in a box. Do I replace a currently non-leaking seal?

Any info or tips are appreciated.

Also are there any publications that have parts breakdown and/or instructions for this engine?

Thanks all
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Anyone know the size of large nut on crank inside pulley? It's evidently bigger than 32MM. These large sockets are not cheap and I want to buy correct size on first attempt.

thx
 

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Discussion Starter #4
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I've alrerady ordered the 36mm socket from IAP. Since my AC is not pressurized (soon to be functional) I should be able to remove AC condenser to have room for impact wrench. Hopefully I won't have need for impact wrench, torch or breaker bar.
The forum you linked me to never had a resolution to the problem. I guess he took it to a mechanic.
I've got the tools and should figure out something.
I think I will replace the front seal. The opportunity is too rare.
 

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Anyone know the size of large nut on crank inside pulley? It's evidently bigger than 32MM. These large sockets are not cheap and I want to buy correct size on first attempt.

thx
My '91 has a 36mm nut.

I'm not 100% if its the same for the S3, but I gotta believe it is.

Good luck.

Vin

edit: typed before I read all the responses. Hey, that's my thread being quoted! I have replaced my front crank seal since then as I didnt replace it flush.
 

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The forum you linked me to never had a resolution to the problem. I guess he took it to a mechanic.
That was my thread. I did evenually bring it to my local mechanic. I thought I mentioned that in the thread.

He used an impact gun to get it off. We did repalce the seal, but it wasnt flush and 3 months later it started leaking again.

That time, I used the starter method and got the nut off myself.

Replaced the seal flush using a piece of wood with a hole in the center, just large enogh for the crank shaft to fit through and the crank shaft nut to push the seal on nice and flush.

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Good luck.

Vin
 

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Remove the radiator - it is a quick job. That will give you the room that you will need to get an impact wrench on the 36mm nut. There should be a tab washer that you will have to bend back. You may be able to see it with a flashight and you may need a mirror. I think that it is a coin toss regarding replacing the seal. It is not that difficult but there is a possibility of scratching or dinging the front casing where it goes in. These seals usually fail due to blemishes or rough spots on the sealing surface of the pulley so don't bang it around and inspect it before you re-install it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Also - to Vintre
Didn't notice there was a second page of your thread. You did indeed post results.
Sorry for the brain fart.
And certainly you input is greatly appreciated.

Warren
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Update

Evidently you can't post any replies until you use link in email notification from the forum so I may be duplicating here as my last post never appeared.

I have everything removed from front of engine - compressor, alternator, radiator, etc.

I'm replacing water pump, compressor, all hoses, belts, etc. Alternator is recent replacement. I will definitely will be replacing front crank seal - these opportunities are few and far between.

Vintre, it looks like you used an axle nut off a Honda (?) for pressing seal correctly. Great idea! I'll use large metal washers instead of the wood but still a great idea.

Am I seeing things or did they engineer it to where you have to remove crank pulley to swap water pump? The pump is loose but there is insufficient clearance because of pulley. I guess this is a moot question as it's all coming out anyway.

Also looking at the AC condenser, it certainly looks 25 years old and very FRAGILE. I really hope whatever method I use successfully doesn't require handling the condenser.

Out of curiosity I tried to locate a new condenser on-line with zero success. Anyone out there know of any sources? Just wanted to be prepared for worst case scenario. I will definitely be using a lot of large thick towels to protect condenser from wrenches, pry bars and other weapons of mass destruction.

Lastly I just finished dowsing the nut with PB Blaster. After a couple days soaking, hopefully it'll make my life just a little easier.

Have a great day guys..
 

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Vintre, it looks like you used an axle nut off a Honda (?) for pressing seal correctly. Great idea! I'll use large metal washers instead of the wood but still a great idea.
Hi trojwl,

I used the same exact same crank shaft nut you are about to pull off.

Hope that helps.

Good luck,

Vin
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The nut on mine looks like about 1/4 inch thick. You got me worried that mine was not a stock nut. Just measured nut. Definitely 36 mm.

Whew!!

I maintain that yours still looks like a Honda axle nut. It even has the shoulder for dimpling to the axle shaft.
 

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Am I seeing things or did they engineer it to where you have to remove crank pulley to swap water pump? The pump is loose but there is insufficient clearance because of pulley.
Yep, either remove the crank pulley or remove the 2 or 3 offending studs to allow the water pump to be manueuvered out from behind the pulley.
 
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