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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,
I am following the advice from an old post for this but had a question. I am wondering about the dimensions of the insert. Width is self explanatory, however height is not. The (metal) header is longer in the front so it seats on the windshield frame. Does the insert need to be made to the height of the back of the channel? or something less than that?

epp
 

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The channel is pretty deep after you auger out all the old wood. The thickeness should sort of mirror a piece of the original .. or be deep enough to accommodate the tacks or staples (SS) to hold the fabric.Wedge the wood in place by trial fitting it even in layers of 1/8' thickness to build it up with glue in plys if necessary and leave enough depth in the channel after you would tack the canvass in for a rubber seal to nestle in ,.A slightly forced fit is good.. Flushing up the wood in the channel won't allow for that.You want at least a shallow trough t secure the rubber. U,
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you Uncle,
The back of the trough is about a 1/2" I'm assuming the staples or tacks used should be about 3/8" that will leave an 1/8"or slightly more before coming even with the back (or shallow) edge of the trough. So I have a plan thank you for the advice.

There was nothing left of the original wood to go by..

Was the wood screwed in like on the bottom of the seat, or glued in?

Not sure what "A slightly forced fit is good." means? Could you please elaborate?

Regards,
Paul
 

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Thank you Uncle,
The back of the trough is about a 1/2" I'm assuming the staples or tacks used should be about 3/8" that will leave an 1/8"or slightly more before coming even with the back (or shallow) edge of the trough. So I have a plan thank you for the advice.

There was nothing left of the original wood to go by..

Was the wood screwed in like on the bottom of the seat, or glued in?

Not sure what "A slightly forced fit is good." means? Could you please elaborate?

Regards,
Paul
There might have bene 3 or 4 screws .. you might want to assess that in the metal .. Perhaps one on ech end maybe a couple inches from the end the a couple spaced betwixt them. The pull of the fabric won't pull the wood loose if it is wedged in there pretty good because it is a tangent forces rather than straight out. 30 years go by fast..
 

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Uncle,

For those of us who have never seen either a "this is what it should look like" or a "ratted-out" top frame header, do you have any photos of both, or either?

Thanks,

Ray
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Uncle, I will check again for screw holes, seems a safe bet.. I had to do a fair amount of welding to make the header usable, so the evidence may be in the not in the cards. 30 years..Hell I cant remember breakfast anymore.

I will post a link to the old thread I was looking at for what to use for the wood, in an effort to help the next guy with this issue.

Ray, I dont know what your asking, you are putting quotes around something that is not in this thread. If you want photos of top headers with holes in them from rust I dont understand the purpose, or what it has to do with this thread.
 

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Uncle,

For those of us who have never seen either a "this is what it should look like" or a "ratted-out" top frame header, do you have any photos of both, or either?

Thanks,

Ray
No it's a pretty crude set-up.. .. why else would one use wood in a car factory unless you were building a "woody" .. Zagato used it to hold windshields in place
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Always learning, thought all the holes were from carpenter bee's.
 

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Discussion Starter #11

Old link I was looking at, hope it helps the next guy.
 

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Ray and all,Here's what a "ratted-out" header channel from a 61' spider looks like,with some of the wood tack strip missing.The channel is appx.3/4" deep,13/16"wide.The plywood tack strip is appx.1/4" thick and was secured to the metal channel using slotted,flat head screws which are still visible.Looks like the top fabric(which has to be an old replacement) was glued and tacked to the wood strip with the tacks being long enough to pierce the bottom of the metal channel.Question for gurus;I can see where the original metal channel ends.It would make sense that the tack strip would end there too,or does it continue another 3/4" to the end of the header,ie.,don't know what happens in the space from the end of the channel to the end of the header(see 5th picture)?Here's another link showing an original wood tack strip.Giulietta Spider top frame tack strip
 

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Alphil, et al

Thank you so much for these photos.
I know I caused Epp some confusion, but I just needed to see some photos of a top frame with the wood in place, as it should be, and a frame with the wood missing and the trough eaten up with rust.

While I have learned a great deal from BB discussions, (this one is LOADED with great info!).much of the time I can't visualize what is being discussed/described due to the fact that I've never seen the item in any condition; good or bad, to begin with.

My appreciation runneth over...

Ray
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thank you Alphil, Very helpful post. I search for hours before asking questions.. The link you posted was a great help.
 

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Wood tack strip is the thinnest possible plywood, cut to fill the channel completely. Screwed into the sheet metal. Tacks through the top cover secured it when new - no glue. The numerous tacks would hook over as they pierced the sheet metal. I have never seen a properly replicated Pininfarina convertible top, including numerous examples at Pebble Beach. The Italians used a simple canvas material that doesn't stand up to the elements. But it's so beautiful!

If you search the forum, you should find photos of the original top cover on my 59 750D during removal. I think that you'll have to use glue to properly secure the modern Haartz material in its place. Better functionality, not as pretty.
 
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