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Discussion Starter #1
OK guys, I am finally going to put my new windscreen and rear window back in with new seals after stripping the roof back to bare metal and respraying. I was pleasantly surprised by the lack of rust around the windows considering my car leaked like a sieve, the rubbers were so shot the snapped out in chunks, and the PO had mastiked the gaps all over the place!

Question is, due to me forgetting what I pulled off first when I removed the screen (by finding a gap and getting my fingers under it and pulling!:eek:) Do I need to put the trim on first? And how is the bit I have highlighted in red fixed to the body, mine had a pile of silicon under it...
 

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I seem to remember pulling mine out from under the lip of the windscreen seal... Derek, does the piece have any holes in it for rivets?

The parts book shows bugger-all detail.
 

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In this order
Put the rubber on the screen then put the screen mould in the rubber.
It's not easy to get the mould in the rubber, you have to kind of work it in with the palm of your hand but once you get the knack it will go in fairly quickly.. resist using any lubricant on the mould, just makes it pop out easier.
Work the mould so that it seats properly in the rubber all the way around 'cause you won't be able to get it in after fitting to the car.
I just rope the screen in then... pretty easy to do.
The drip rail mould... mmm, you gotta roll them on. How to explain?
Present the mould to the car about where it goes. It is sitting in the vertical plane. Roll it up to the horizontal plane and clip it over the drip rail along the length of the roof starting at the front. When most of the horizontal length is in position roll it down so that the back section starts to meet the drip rail. It should snap into position with a whack from the palm of you hand. Don't hit it with anything other than your hand. It should just snap into place,
This technique also applies the the 105 coupe drip rail moulds.
Think clip, roll, snap. There may be some screws or rivets to keep it in place on the supers (can't remember) as there is on the coupes.
The front A pillar mould just slips in under the screen rubber and rolls in toward the door seal.
Remember, don't force or bend either of these moulds. Kinks are very difficult to remove, nigh impossible. Just take your time and work them on/in with just your hands.
Have fun!
Tim
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys for your replies. I think I will still get a windscreen guy to fit the glass in, I hear they break easily hey Ben?:p but I can get the other bits done now. Click, roll, snap. Got it, thanks Tim!:)

I was only planning to give a bit of a paint touch up as I cant bear to have it off the road to long, next thing you know its back to bare metal to the bottom of the pillars. I did the windscreen cowl panel? too as I figured I dont want to take the front screen out again when I do the rest of the car. Looks like that'll be back to bare metal too. Have to psych myself up for that one.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
OK so I called a windscreen guy to see how much to fit the glass. $400 he reckons. Is that a bit rich? Its not like there are any materials for him to supply. Maybe I'm a bit of a tightarse, ok I am, but I was hoping for something around the $200 mark. Any Brisbane backyarders out there that can give me a hand?
 

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OK so I called a windscreen guy to see how much to fit the glass. $400 he reckons. Is that a bit rich? Its not like there are any materials for him to supply. Maybe I'm a bit of a tightarse, ok I am, but I was hoping for something around the $200 mark. Any Brisbane backyarders out there that can give me a hand?
Have you called any others? They are a bit pricey though, I remember getting a windscreen guy out a few years ago to re-seal my screen in the 2002 and he slogged me $80-odd for the job. Then I found out I could do it myself, thanks Selleys.
 
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