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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
(Let me know if the in-line photos don't 'work'. The originals were on Webshots but they are no longer offering free photo hosting so I am trying another site.)
Since I had some spare window switches I decided to see if I could take one apart, clean the contacts and then put it back together and have it work (better...). Turns out it wasn't very hard. Nice clean contacts with a smear of dielectric grease might make them last another 20 years.

The switch simply pulls out of the dash panel then unplugs from the wire harness.

Flip it over and gently pry the black metal cover off.


Note the two tabs the rocker switch pivots on. Gently pry the sides apart to release the rocker switch.


Now you can look inside and see the moving contacts.



If your switch works well you might stop at this point and simply squirt some electrical contact cleaner inside then use a toothpick or Q-tip to apply some dielectric grease onto the contacts. This will help prevent corrosion & arcing between the contacts. The arcing is what eventually burns pits into the contacts making them fail.

Since this switch would only work intermittently I moved ahead with the plan to disassemble it further.


Note the two smooshed over plastic 'rivets'. On original assembly these would have been protruding posts which were then set using a hot metal 'smoosher'. To take the two halfs of the switch housing apart I trimmed the smooshed over area (leaving as much of the central post as possible) until I could pry apart the switch halfs. Don't just slice off the entire smooshed over part - we'll need as much of it you can save for re-assembly later.


As you separate the two halfs encourage the metal switch parts to stay in the bigger half of the switch housing. Note the 'missing' slot where there is no electrical connector. Remember where that position is so you can re-assemble it correctly later!


Now that the two halfs are separated you can remove each part one by one for cleaning. Here are the two housing halfs with the moving contacts removed. Note that despite being attached with springs nothing went flying apart!


Here are the upper fixed contacts - burned & pitted.


Here's the lower fixed contact - again burned & pitted.


Sorry, I forgot to snap a close up photo of the moving contacts. There are two moving contacts plates with two contact surfaces on each. Again a gentle cleaning with the ultra fine polishing paper had them smooth & shiney.

I applied some dielectric grease to all the now clean contacts then put the fixed contacts in place followed by the moving contacts. Tuck the moving plate in under the upper fixed plate and slip the spade terminal into the slot in the plastic switch housing.

Using a sharp knife I trimmed a bit more of the smooshed rivet away so that the remaining post would fit through the hole in its mating half & re-assembled the two halfs. Then I heated up the tip of a small screwdriver (using a small flame) and re-smooshed the rivet.

Finish by putting the rocker switch back into place and slip the black cover over the switch and enjoy your good-as-new window switches!
 

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Eric you are so valuable person for the Alfa community.

I will always Thank you for the transmission exhaust support bracket you gave me.

Let me know if I can help you in anything in the future.

Giorgio
 

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The lighted 86 version switche are also as simple to recondition.

Light bulbs can be replaced with Radio Shack versions, but need to watch the wattage so they don't get too hot.
 

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Hi Mark,

On replacing the bulbs in the later, more angular design... do those just press in, or does that require some soldering? Do you remember the wattage you got from Radio Shack? Don't wanna melt the plastic, or fry anything.

I have a few of those internally lit ones that work as switches, but may want to play with bringing the bulb back to life, at some point.

Thanks Eric... that helps take the 'scary' out of a simple task. The 'smoosher' at the factory is usually a heat staking machine, or an ultra-sonic swage. But, I like 'smoosher' even better :- )

Peter
 

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Peter - been a while since I have been inside them.

Definitly require soldering the leads - not hard, but not for clumsy fingers. Probably would be easier now that I have updated my iron from my dad's old 1933 version :)

I remember sorting through the bins at Radio Shack and finding 12V bulbs of similar size (they just barely fit in there originally). I think they were 3A (= 36W) or maybe they were .3A (3.6W - sounds more likely). Anyway, at the local store, there were few choices for 12V bulbs. Lower wattage is better since they are just backlighing anyway. Mine do get warm to the touch, but no physical damage over several years.

I worked hard to get the switchgear on the pod to be congruent. Including communicating with the switch manufacturer to get a fog light switch that matches the others (defrost, lighted windows, and emergency blinker). They were great and actually sent me one from Italy no charge. Neat transaction, but so long ago that I have lost the contacts. (try that with Delco or Bosch!)
 

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Thanks Mark,

I think I have enough of those rascals to sacrifice a couple for the experiment. I could crack two open... work on one, while leaving the guts in place in the other (for reference).

The variable now, would be my questionable soldering skills.
 

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That's it I am moving to NC........LOL!
 

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Look at these switches

I couild not get the picture to come up, but if you go the the website - Switch - Sun Roof & Window - Left Hand - To 1995 | Land Rover Electrical Parts, Batteries, Relays, Lamps & More - I think that you will find something quite familiar looking.
Switch - Sun Roof & Window - Left Hand - To 1995 Our Price: $24.95
Item: PRC5255
In Stock: Yes!

Fits: Discovery I | '94 - '99 | LH Rear
Range Rover Classic | '87 - '94 | Arrows on switch Details Ask A Question Atlantic British stocks an array of Electrical items.

I had to buy a new switch for my 1991 Range Rover and when it showed up I took a double take. Now before all of the jokes about British electrical parts, I think you should know these switches are French:D.
 

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I was able to see the picture of the switch. It looked like the earlier GTV6 design: softer shape w/ printed arrows.

The only differences I could see, visually... the Land Rover version had 5 spades on the connectors vs 4 on the ALFA (3+ gap+ 1). That may not mean that it won't work on an ALFA, as the blank spade location may be meaningless?? On the 2 arrow graphics, one was an outline and the other filled in.

If anyone tries one of these on their GTV6, let us know if there were any problems. Always good to have new options.
 

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I had to buy a new switch for my 1991 Range Rover and when it showed up I took a double take. Now before all of the jokes about British electrical parts, I think you should know these switches are French:D.
These are lighted switches? If so it would be a nice quality upgrade. The brand is Ansor as the ones in the gtv6?

I sourced some lighted ones down here in Peru with 5 spade design and made them to work in my car, I had to splice the ground connector and add an additional wire with its connector and worked great. The stock gtv6 has one cable being current and the other one is ground (the centre ones) and the other two connectors (the ones at the ends) go to the window motor. The one showed works just the same but should have 2 spades for the ground.
 

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Ennio,

The ones shown on the link were not the angular illuminated design. They were the soft shape with arrow graphics printed on them (no lights).

I find the angular ones the more desirable choice. But, with the internal lights, there are TWO things waiting to go wrong.
 

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Peter,

1981-1985 gtv6 had the non-illuminated design with arrows, only 1986 had the ones you refer as angular ones. As I wanted some illuminated ones, I found a set down here in Peru that did the job (but the light is not green) but the ones showed for Land Rover seem to be of a better quality so I was wondering if they were illuminated (they should as tehy are for a more modern car).
 

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Hi Ennio,

Thanks for the years on the switch change. I was never quite sure when those changed over.

Here's the pic from the Land Rover website, that I was able to drag to my desktop. I don't think it illuminates, as the arrows look like an opaque heat stamp.

The lit ones you found in Peru... did those look like the angular '86 ALFA design? I'm assuming those were able to fit in the dash holes.

Peter
 

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Thanks Ennio,

Those look like a nice combination, using the best features from both of the 'soft' and 'angular' designs we saw here.

Even the bezels blend nicely with the switches and lights around them. And the shapes don't look out of place, design-wise. Deluxe upgrade!

Peter
 

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Another possible replacement

In case anyone is wondering:

The "Land Rover" switches quoted earlier in the thread (photo below) work in the GTV6. I've tested it. This also applies to other Ferrari TRW/Torrix switches for various years between late 70's and early 90's. Those switches all have the same plastic casing and almost same rocker and "guts."

The only thing needed is a ground "jumper" to the extra corresponding spade (spades 2 and 4 in a 5 pin switch, counting from either direction, need to be grounded for both directions on the switch to work. If you just plug in the switch to the GTV6 harness without the extra ground jumped, the switch will only operate the window in one direction). So in other words, the switch relies on separate grounds - one for up operation, one for down operation. In our GTV6 case, jumping pins 2 and 4 provides the ground for each window travel direction.

They work just as the originals and fit perfectly in the existing dashboard cutouts (as they should; they're the same molded plastic frame). Very positive audible "click" when depressed.

Ferrari 308/Mondial window switch Ferrari part number 114633 and is a 5 wire as described above. Same recessed arrow graphic as original GTV6.

Other, newer Ferrari switches that fit are:

-Ferrari 348/512 TR (these are plug and play 4 wire switches (no jumper wire required), just have slightly different graphic, Ferrari part 147206 or 147207)

-Ferrari 328 (these are 5 wire and need pins 2 and 4 jumped as described above for Rover switch, have slightly different rocker and graphic, Ferrari part 126817 or 126818)


I've posted this and other info in a new thread, here: http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/alf...er-window-switch-information.html#post1046370
 

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Ennio, can you explain what you meant by "I had to splice the ground connector and add an additional wire with its connector and worked great."

I think I understand, but want to be sure..

Thank you,

Luis Venitucci
 

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Luis, as racingswim2006 posts, you need to ground pins 2 and 4, so get a jumper wire from the ground wire of the car and you are done
 
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